
The Come:
To teach the come on leash you can
do it when the dog is occupied with something and then command, "Come!".
Right after you give the command, pull the dog toward you and happily praise
your dog when the dog is right in front of you. Do this repeatedly until
he or she responds to the come command immediately. Then with the long
line on your dog you can work on the come from a further distance. Once
your dog does this very well, try the come without long line or leash in
an enclosed place in case your dog doesn't come. If you do have trouble
with the come off leash, then consult me for more advice. Below is my e-mail
connection.
The Heel:
With leash and collar on your dog,
command, "Heel!", while walking out with the foot closest to your dog.
If your dog's head or neck is not level with your leg while walking, jerk
your dog into this position. You may have to jerk your dog continuously
if the dog constantly forages or lags. The typical side to have the dog
heel is on the left side but it is your choice. The right side is not allowed
in obedience trials. (If someone knows this is not true, please e-mail
me.) So, if you feel you'll want to have the dog compete in odedience trials
then I'd heel your dog to the left. (I will soon have a page up discussing
the different dog training equipment.)
The Sit and Down:
I have decided to explain the sit only
with the sit-stay and the down only with down-stay because most dog owners
want this outcome with their dogs. This will make it easier for me and
the dog owner will understand the steps better if it is all put together.
The Sit-Stay:
With leash and collar on your dog,
command, "Sit!", while pushing your dog's rump down, pull the leash up
or hold the dog's head up. For the stay, put your hand out with palm facing
flat toward dog and the command, "Stay!", and then step right in front
of him or her. Stay there standing in front of your dog. If he or she moves
any time after you say this, command, "No!", and then put him or her right
back where he or she was. When your dog stays after half a minute praise
him or her vocally, only. Petting may cause him or her to move. Continue
to do these steps and he or she will learn both commands. Once your dog
is able to stay with you right in front of him or her, then gradually work
out further standing in front of him or her until you reach the end of
the 6 ft. leash. Once your dog does this well, you can now try long stays.
I suggest doing this in your house, fenced backyard, some other confined
area or use a long line on your dog in open areas. The possibility of a
loose dog is just too great. If he or she goes down, stands or dashes from
position, put him or her right back where your dog was in a sit. When you
are correcting a dog back into the position you don't say the command because
you want the dog learn when you say it the first time you mean it. Therefore,
you just put your dog into a sit by pushing your dog's rump down and pulling
the leash up. Once your dog stays well with this step, you can try putting
him or her into a sit-stay and go do something in the same room or not
far in the backyard. When he or she does well with this step, you can try
going out of sight. If the dog is able to do the long sit for 5 minutes,
then you can work with him or her around more distractions.
The Down-Stay:
If your dog doesn’t have any biting
or dominating problems then you should be fine to go on ahead and do the
down-stay. However, the minute the dog growls or does really fight you
to put him or her into the down then please stop and go get a Halti
head halter. You should also go get a Halti head halter if your dog
is already dominating and biting. Now, you are ready to teach the down.
It is best to start training with the least distractions. With your dog
at heel position, command, "Down!", while you take your right hand with
palm down in front of your dog's head and bring your hand down to the ground.
Then you grab your dog's furthest leg from you and hold the dog in place
as you take your dog down. Or, you could get in front of your dog and take
your dog's paws with your hands. When your dog has learned this after four
days, you should only grab the leash a foot away from the snap if you command
your dog 'down' and he or she does not go into a down. You may have to
do this several times if the dog is stubborn about obeying your command
to down. Once your dog obeys the down command ever time you tell the dog
to do it, then you can start teaching the stay command. With your hand
out with palm facing flat toward dog, command, "Stay!", and then step right
in front of him or her, using your foot furthest from your dog. Stay there
standing in front of your dog. If your dog moves any time after you say
this, command, "No!", and then put him or her right back where he or she
was. When your dog stays after half a minute, praise him or her vocally,
only. Petting may cause him or her to move. Continue to do these steps
and he or she will learn both commands. Once your dog is able to stay with
you right in front of him, then gradually work out further standing in
front of him or her until you reach the end of the 6 ft. leash. Once your
dog does this well, you can now try long stays. I suggest doing this in
your house, fenced backyard, some other confined area or use a long line
on your dog in open areas. The possibility of a loose dog is just too great.
When you are correcting a dog back into the position you don't say the
command because you want the dog to learn that when you say it the first
time you mean it. So you just jerk your dog into a down and use the down
hand signal. Once your dog stays well with this step, you can try putting
him or her into a down-stay and go do something in the same room or not
far in the backyard. When he or she does this step well, try going out
of sight. If the dog is able to do the long down for 5 or 10 minutes, then
you can work with him or her around more distractions.
NOTE: This training is just basic obedience
training and not for obedience trials. E-mail me if you are interested
in teaching your dog for novice obedience trials. Some people don't see
the need to teach their dog the recall. However, if you want your dog to
learn it, then e-mail me.
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