A V I N T A GE C A M P E R
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Please
read our DISCLAIMER.
Steve from Texas : "Here's my 'over-kill method that I use on all of my rebuilds:
1. Trempro all seams(where roof meets sides).
2. Extra wide putty tape.
3. Square drive stainless screws dipped in t. pro.
4. Putty tape trimmed(amount that oozed out).
5. Finally a bead of Trempro on both sides of trim."
'Overkill is my
nature'
I had an idea what 'Trempro' was, but wasn't exactly sure, so I Googled it. Here is the description of Trempro from Vintage Trailer Supply - yes they carry it, 300ml tube $6.88 plus shipping.
"TremPro 635 is a new faster curing version of the legendary Vulkem polyurethane sealant. Instead of the standard tack-free time of 4 hours with TremPro "Vulkem" 636, TremPro 635 has a 90 minute tack-free time. The faster drying time allows you to apply the sealant without having to wait hours before touching it. It is durable, very flexible and offers excellent performance in all weather situations." Click their link above for further information.
R E B U I L
D I N G
T I P S
Steve from Texas : "Here's my 'over-kill method that I use on all of my rebuilds:
1. Trempro all seams(where roof meets sides).
2. Extra wide putty tape.
3. Square drive stainless screws dipped in t. pro.
4. Putty tape trimmed(amount that oozed out).
5. Finally a bead of Trempro on both sides of trim."
'Overkill is my
nature'I had an idea what 'Trempro' was, but wasn't exactly sure, so I Googled it. Here is the description of Trempro from Vintage Trailer Supply - yes they carry it, 300ml tube $6.88 plus shipping.
"TremPro 635 is a new faster curing version of the legendary Vulkem polyurethane sealant. Instead of the standard tack-free time of 4 hours with TremPro "Vulkem" 636, TremPro 635 has a 90 minute tack-free time. The faster drying time allows you to apply the sealant without having to wait hours before touching it. It is durable, very flexible and offers excellent performance in all weather situations." Click their link above for further information.
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This SITE sells roof vents and replacement top plastic piece. I am sure there are other places. Two-Piece ventilator comes with roof mount sloped roof vent, gasket & interior butterfly vent.
ROOF VENTS
This SITE sells roof vents and replacement top plastic piece. I am sure there are other places. Two-Piece ventilator comes with roof mount sloped roof vent, gasket & interior butterfly vent.
| Product Code | Description | Price |
| M1659 | 14" x 14" dome vent with white acrylic top | $23.84 |
| M1659-12V | 14" x 14" dome vent with white acrylic top & 12 volt fan | $55.17 |
| M1660 | 14" x 14" dome vent with galvanized metal top | $28.84 |
| V554 | Replacement t 14" x 14" white acrylic top for M1659, M1659-12V | $9.28 |
| V2047 | 22" x 22" Escape Hatch dome vent with white acrylic top | $102.12 |
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STAPLES OR SCREWS
From
Ken - ADK59: "I agree with wrex. You can put a
tripod on any unlevel surface but you can't put a table on any unlevel
surface. The trailer shouldn't flex due to its 3 point geometry.
Theoretically, that is. In the case of the silversides, a 1/2" ply to
1/4" ply joint is not the best thing to have to put together.
Manufacturing techniques at the time were staples, and if I had to put
two pieces of wood together like that I would use a whole bunch of them
too. I got to hand it to them though, there are still a bunch of these
campers still around. After time, the trailer eventually loosened up
and I think thats where the leaks came from. If another 1/2" of "meat"
was added to the sides at the top, that would have made all the
difference in the world I think. Staples hold very securely. They are
tough to remove out of pallet wood. But lengthwise into a piece of
plywood? I don't think that holds a staple very well. I don't think
that holds anything very well. Maybe that's why some of them are 2 1/2"
long. I'd opt for a long, thin diameter screw in that application and a
wicked good adhesive. I got screws all over the place on mine but its
rebuilt differently."
From Steve in Texas -
Stainless Screw source - Jamestown Distributors
# 8 -- 3/4" -- 3.63 per 100 stainless
# 8 -- 1" -- 3.63 per 100 -- they also come in a pan head.
# 8 -- 3/4" -- 3.63 per 100 stainless
# 8 -- 1" -- 3.63 per 100 -- they also come in a pan head.
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This is from Ellyn in NH :
REMOVING OLD STICKERS - ADHESIVE
This is from Ellyn in NH :
"Hi Donna---I have had good luck
removing remnants of bumper stickers
from my Scotty with peanut butter (or probably anything with
oil). I rubbed it in with my fingers to warm at the same time,
which made the dried, fossilized adhesive gooey again. Then
removed all with a rag slightly moisten with mineral spirits.
Final cleaning with Formula 409. Good luck --- Ellyn from NH"
Rose added: "she has used Avon's Skin so soft and likely anything with oil would probably work too."
Bob says: "as a professional mechanic of almost 40 years, the absolute best sticky remover we have found is WD-40. It is safe to use and is harmless to most anything."
Svfudgies adds: "as a sailor, who has run into 'sticky situations'; ie leaving fancy, long time blue tape in place on a slow moving varnish job, I can say that simple rubbing alcohol removes all sticky stuff without damage, chalking or residue."
Rose added: "she has used Avon's Skin so soft and likely anything with oil would probably work too."
Bob says: "as a professional mechanic of almost 40 years, the absolute best sticky remover we have found is WD-40. It is safe to use and is harmless to most anything."
Svfudgies adds: "as a sailor, who has run into 'sticky situations'; ie leaving fancy, long time blue tape in place on a slow moving varnish job, I can say that simple rubbing alcohol removes all sticky stuff without damage, chalking or residue."
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This is from Don Manvell in PA :
"While trying many different methods to remove silicone caulk, I have come up with something that works reasonable well. First I use a metal putty knife and run the corner of it along the caulk line against the trim piece. This cuts the caulk from the trim. Next I use a plastic putty knife to lift up the majority of the caulk. This leaves a lot of residue on the siding. I then spray it with WD-40.
The WD-40 and a rag will completely remove the residual silicone. I also use the plastic putty knife to run along the trim and roughen the caulk stuck on that. A few more applications of WD-40 and a little scraping and the silicone is completely gone. I then use mineral sprits on a rag to wipe away all the WD-40 . The Wd-40 will not harm the paint. "
"While trying many different methods to remove silicone caulk, I have come up with something that works reasonable well. First I use a metal putty knife and run the corner of it along the caulk line against the trim piece. This cuts the caulk from the trim. Next I use a plastic putty knife to lift up the majority of the caulk. This leaves a lot of residue on the siding. I then spray it with WD-40.
The WD-40 and a rag will completely remove the residual silicone. I also use the plastic putty knife to run along the trim and roughen the caulk stuck on that. A few more applications of WD-40 and a little scraping and the silicone is completely gone. I then use mineral sprits on a rag to wipe away all the WD-40 . The Wd-40 will not harm the paint. "
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Web page created by Larry Bush: Sept.17.2007 --- Edited: 7.14. 2009
Serro Scotty ~ Vintage Campers ©
All Rights Reserved
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Web page created by Larry Bush: Sept.17.2007 --- Edited: 7.14. 2009
Serro Scotty ~ Vintage Campers ©
All Rights Reserved
___________________________________