The outline of most of the projects can be found on the Boat Bio page.
The last "Significant" change we made to the Cal 40 was the Rudder.
A group of Cal 40 owners, commissioned a design from Carl Schumacher in Alameda,
CA. The new design is elliptical.
Old Rudder Vs. Elliptical:
Here's an outline of the Rudder Project. Pictures are provided by Chris Pittack of "Wings" who graciously helped with this effort. This is the procedure I used to install my rudder...you may have better workmanship ideas, or different circumstances to deal with...Use this as a guide, please!
This installation used Doug Grant's Bushings. I prepared the rudder by applying
three barrier coats, and filled the shaft with expanding foam. I 
polished the
shaft with some emery cloth to remove production burrs. (Not highly polished,
just enough to smooth out the bearing surface.)
The entire job took me one weekend, about 12 hours, because I went real slow. I could not afford a mistake. If I did this for a living, it should take about 3 hours.
1. Remove Old Rudder.
Material and tools:
Wrenches (crescent or box), hammer, punch, saw horse, blocking wood, line, a friend.
!!! The stock rudder will clear during the dropout, so be ready. !!!
a) Block the rudder. If you feel weak, tie a line on it so you can lower it, it weights about 90# if it's waterlogged.
b.) Remove the tiller handle, and when you're ready, remove the bronze collar. The bolt make have to be driven out.
c.) Lower the rudder to the ground. (save any washers/shims for later). The removal may take a little wiggling, or it may just drop out.
2. Clean and Repair Post Tube
Material and tools:
Rags, Solvent, Bastard File, Sandpaper, Can or bag for waste rags, flashlight, inspection mirror, plastic ground cloth. (Grease Zerk Fitting)
a.) Using your favorite rag material, and maybe some solvent, remove the years of grease from the post tube. Get the tube real clean, so later epoxy will stick. After some bulk removal, I work from one end, the top, and push rags through one way. Ball up the rags, push them down a bit with a stick, maybe pour some solvent down the tube, and then push them all the way out.
b.) My post tube had a greyish "shim" material. I removed this with a bastard file.
c.) After cleaning one more time I sanded the area which the epoxy would later be applied.
d,) If you do not have an existing "grease zerk" fitting on you post, now may be a good time to install one.
e.) Test fit the upper and lower Grant bushings... I was a
little afraid to 
shove
them all the way in, if you want to, only do one at a time. If one gets stuck,
then you have a "full hole" to push it back out from the other end.
(The "T" bushing is the top bushing). see the picture of the upper
bushing head to the right.
3. Install the Bushings
Material and tools:
Clean rags, solvent, marine epoxy (West Systems or your favorite), epoxy thickener (balloons), wooden spatulas, a mixing bowl, a rubber hammer, or a hammer and a 2x4.
OPINION: I chose to "butter-up" the bushings with epoxy. Two reasons for this. To fill any gaps between the machined new bushings, and any ovality in the old / worn tube. Second, I wanted to make sure the lower bushing did not climb or drop. (the grooves in the lower Grant bushing are installed for this purpose, the glue probably won't stick well to the bushing, the glue bonds to the post tube, and tooth's to the groove.)
a.) Do a final solvent wash of the tube, and bushings to make sure your satisfied there is no dirt or grease.
b.) Butter up the lower bushing, and insert
bushing until the closest edge is almost flush with the hull. I left this edge sticking out about
1/8-1/4". The bushing will protrude... I would NOT recommend cutting this
flush to the hull, as it provides a uniform thrust surface with the rudder blade
if it "climbs".
c.) Install the upper bushing in a similar procedure. The "head" of the bushing should be inserted and come in contact with the top of the post tube.
d.) Clean up excess epoxy.
Have a beer, lunch and admire your work!
4. Measure for Bronze Cap Install.
Material and tools:
Hammer, center punch, marking pen, upper thrust washer, lower thrust washer, tape measure, tiller handle, tiller head, tiller head metal spacer, pieces of carpet, or rags to work on, sawhorse, blocks, hand drill, Blue Cobalt Drill bits, drilling lubrication.
Side Note 1: Take great care in this part, holes are hard to fill. I did not have to shorten "Victoria!'s" rudder post, so if you decide / need to cut. MAKE SURE. Measure three times, first. Look at your assembly four times. Each boat may be a bit different, again, I did not have to cut mine, MAKE SURE.
Side Note 2: I installed the first Schumacher Rudder / Grant Bushing set. No thrust washers were provided.. I used the existing thrusts on my old rudder. I believe Grant now supplies thrust washers.
Side Note 3: After you decide how much, if any, the the tiller head spacer is to project (4e.), insert the tiller head on the shaft, and scribe a mark, so you know when the shaft is fully inserted into the head.
Side Note 4: Stainless "work hardens" If you don't use proper lubrication, and Blue Cobalt bits, the stainless may harden until you cannot drill through.
a.) Install Lower Thrust washer on Rudder Post. (I made mine from a piece of plastic, found at the hardware store. I found an HVAC cap of the material I wanted, and about 1/8" thick). From this I cut out a washer that just fit over the post, and large enough to just ride outside the lip of the Lower Bushing.
b.) 
Insert
the rudder into the boat. Block into the desired height, Mine is about 1/4"
from the hull. The shaft may push in a bit tight, wiggling and some lubrication
helps... just remember, grease collects dirt. More cleaning will be required.
c.) Center the rudder using the hard line in the bottom shape.
d.) Place the top Thrust Washer on the shaft. (See old/new discussion in 4e. below.)
e.) I predrilled the metal "Spacer" for the post to
tiller head with elongated holes. The elongations allowed me some wiggle room,
these aren't necessary, I needed it because my drilling abilities with a hand
drill are lacking. Make sure you understand the depth required for the spacer.
In my installation I left
the spacer sticking out of the tiller head enough to retain the TWO
"OLD" spacers from the top and bottom of OLD 3.5" shaft. The
Spacer did not make contact with the top of the new bushing head, just extended
enough to retain/center the OLD Thrust washers. If you have NEW, correct sized
thrust washers, then the spacer is inserted into the bronze tiller head until it
is flush.
f.) Is the maximum insertion line you marked in Side Note 3 above or below the Thrust Washer? IF it is above, either the rudder needs to be lowered, or the shaft shortened. BUT CARRY on though 4h. to verify.
g.) Install the tiller handle on the head. Mark on the Bridge
Deck the center of the cockpit well. Set the tiller head on the shaft, with the
spacer in place, and point the tiller handle to the mark on the bridge deck. Now
the tiller and rudder should be aligned straight.
h.) Inspect the Tiller Head make-up. Is the shaft too long? If it is the cap will not set all the way down. I marked through the Tiller head bolt holes, with a marking pen, and removed the cap to see if it's too short. If you're convinced it's too long... DOUBLE CHECK your assembly. got all the Thrust Washers? I really hate cutting.. I have two thrust washers on the top to make up the distance I needed. (The original bronze thrust washers from the top and bottom of the old rudder). We had the new rudder post made 1.5" longer than the stock for just this occasion.
i) I'll assume you get through the length problem okay.
k.) When satisfied with the hull/rudder gap, alignment, I center punched thru the rudder cap onto the post.
5. Cut / Drill / Install Rudder
Material and tools:
Hammer, center punch, marking pen, upper thrust washer, lower thrust washer, tape measure, tiller handle, tiller head, tiller head metal spacer, pieces of carpet, or rags to work on, sawhorse, blocks, hand drill, Blue Cobalt Drill bits, drilling lubrication, New Tiller Head Bolt Set, Grease.
a.)
We then removed the assembly and drilled the holes on the shaft. I also marked
the spacer before I removed it so I could remember which side is down.. and which
side was port/stbd. You can see we emery clothed the holes to remove high spots
from drilling.
l.) Wipe down of all the pieces to remove dirt. Check the bushings too.
m.) Reinstall everything, don't forget the Thrust washers. This time you can use more grease if you want, hopefully this is the final install. The rudder needs to be blocked up so it does not fall out.
n.) Use new bolts on the tiller head.
6. Modify Crab Pot Skeg.
Material and tools:
A chunk of plywood, saw, 5 minute epoxy, sander, filler epoxy, scraper, spatula, mixing bowl, sandpaper, bottom paint, brush.
Side Note 1: This
is not a factory item(?)... and really is not a big deal to add or modify. My
method might not be high tech.. but so far has worked without failure.
a.) Sand the area for the new piece to bond to the hull, and maybe to the old skeg.
b.) Cut a piece of plywood to fill the gap. Glue into place with the 5 minute epoxy. If the piece is a bit small you can do the magic race shape later with the filler epoxy.
c.) Fair the piece in with the filler epoxy, make sure it's real racy in shape (joke). Make sure the rudder doesn't hit it when swung.
d.) Paint to suit.
