The joys of replacing a rear apron can be counted on one hand, and that hand can be a few digits short of a full load. Yes, it is a large job but not an insurmountable one. I recommend a shop with expertise or hopefully you are either gifted with the ability and tools or a friend that is. This is a short discourse on replacing an apron using either NOS ( New Old Stock), or a used part salvaged off a "Donor" car

  Having recently removed an apron I can attest to the fact the VW factory put them on very well. If you get a used part it will most likely be a "clip" which is pretty much what the name implies, a piece cut off a donor car that is larger than just the apron. This is then used as a replacement panel and trimmed to fit the area that is removed  from the car, which in most likelihood would be more than what an NOS panel would comprise. Price wise depending on the replacement part, prevailing labor rates, and the expertise of the person doing the work, plus what you want in a finished product, you may save money by getting a $300 NOS panel.

  Anyway, this is how I removed and replaced the rear apron on my Notch plus a bit explaining the "clip" process.

• 1) obtain spot weld cutters - 2,  maybe 3 sizes and types can be used. There are several types and sources. The Eastwood Co. is really nice and is geared toward the home hobbist/semi professional. A good place if you don't have a clue where to start to find these tools.

• 2) start removing panel (this is after both rear fenders were removed,  engine may require removal) by finding and cutting spot welds along both vertical sides. Hint use a sanding disc to lightly sand off paint and allow you to see the spot weld marks/dimples.

• 3)  remove spot welds along  folded over lip that is at the back of the carpeted area. difficult to find them all here. You will end up with holes here that will need to be welded up and also along the sides.

• 4) Start removing the one long continuos spot weld at the bottom of the air box. This is where I got really frustrated and got out an electric die grinder with 4" cut off wheels. I cut the panel off above and below this seam then started grinding the actual weld down and pulling the apron layer off leaving a good flange to weld to.

• 5) Fit the new panel, the NOS rear aprons include the latch panel ( the section that the latch bolts to) and is generally all that is needed unless you can't salvage the air box piece that the apron is directly behind. That is the piece that the rubber cooling bellows attaches to from the engine.  Use your fenders and decklid to ensure alignment and then spot weld , tig weld, etc. until it is an acceptable piece of work.

  Fitting a clip will be a bit different. It would probably be a section of car cut off somewhere through the engine compartment hatch, maybe as much as a 12" to 18" inch section of rear body work. This will be then grafted onto your car by cutting a like chunk off the back and then using your fenders and deck lid as guides to ensure everything lines up correctly. When done it will only be noticeable to the trained eye, unless a slightly less that experienced and careful, caring person does it.

   Both ways can be butchered or come out fine. I prefer the NOS panel method. It is least intrusive to the integrity of the car and is the hardest to tell and gives the best return. Get estimates for doing it both ways and let the body shop know that you can furnish an NOS panel (check their reaction to that!). If you are doing this with a friend that is a good body person listen to his opinions. Like I said before, both ways can give a good finished product.

By the way, Fasty , SBs and Notches all had their own unique NOS rear apron panels, I believe the latch panel part is different between them all.

  Tom