THE LAST MAHARAJA OF BANARES

India gained its independence in 1947. From that time on maharajas, once unrivaled rulers of Indian states, were little more than figureheads politically. However, some still play vital roles in their communities. The Maharaja of Banares (also known as the Maharaja of Vanarsi) is one of these. He concerns himself with the welfare of the community and is actually revered by many as an incarnation of Shiva.

Imagine our amazement when we found ourselves invited to his palace for an audience and tea. Entering his palace through arches designed to accommodate elephants with howdahs, we were ushered to a filigreed marble balcony overlooking the Ganges, or Gunga as it is called here. The Maharaja, a diminutive white-haired man wearing a white kurta and red cap embroidered with gold proved to be, even at 79, quick-witted and not prone to suffer fools lightly. Also present was the Maharaja's granddaughter, a bright, charming 15-year old whose poise was remarkable.

It is not easy or cheap to keep up a palace, especially in this heat and humidity. While there is still a staff of retainers on site, the condition of the palace is deteriorating. Some of the Maharaja's expenses are deferred by allowing the general public to enter the grounds and view an interesting exhibit of weapons, old cars, and howdahs.