Death
Valley National Park
March 20-28, 2007
Reason for the trip: (If I do not
have a reason to go the Death Valley I can easily make up one.)
For this trip
there were four hikes and two four-wheeling trips I wanted to make.
To get to one of the hiking spots I wanted to visit required going on a
jeep trail where I wanted companions to spot me through some tight and
rough sections, and to be available in case of a breakdown or
other emergency situation. That was a hike to a
canyon north of Steele
Pass that is reputed to have some tinajas in it.
These tinajas might possibly represent a natural "Marble Bath" in
the region of the Marble Bath water feature marked on some older
topographic maps and carried over into certain other mapping products.
In addition, tinajas are likely spots to find
prehistoric petroglyphs. I was able to get two people from
Big Pine (Dave and Graham) interested in this drive and a drive down Lippincott Mine Road.
As it turned out, we got to the hiking area too late in the
day, and I did not get to make this hike.
Lippincott
Mine Road. This was once one of the most
difficult jeep roads in the park, but recent comments on Death Valley
bulletin boards had led me to believe that it had been much improved of
late, and was likely to be in good shape until the next major storm
hits the area. None the less, since I did not know just how
"good" the road really was, its previous reputation led me to want
companions on this trip. David has already posted information
on this trip, so I will just link to his
report here.
Day by day
account:
Starting on a Tuesday, I
drove from Scottsdale, AZ via I-10-Salome Rd,-Parker-Lake Havasu
City-Needles, CA-Searchlight, NV, Baker, CA-Highway 127-Saratoga
Springs
Rd.- Harry Wade Rd, and camped on the Harry Wade Rd. about 7.4 miles
south of the intersection with Highway 178 (Ashford Junction).
The next day as I drove north I realized that I had picked a
good place to camp, as camping by the road became more difficult for
tent camping as the road moved hight on the alluvial fan.
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The
camp by the side of Harry Wade Road
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The next day I drove to the
visitor center to make use of one of the government's examples of age
discrimination and buy a Senior Pass. $10 gives you and
anyone in your car free admission of to various federally run
facilities like parks, monuments, forests and a discount on camping
fees in some of these. The catch is you must be over 62 to
get one.
The first objective on this trip was to
hike Corridor Canyon near the Racetrack Valley. Because of
camping restriction in the immediate vicinity of the start of the hike
at the Ubehebe Mine, I camped off the Racetrack Rd. a few
miles north of Teakettle Junction. I got there about 1:30,
much earlier than I like to camp, but I did not want to start hiking to
Corridor Cyn. at 2 PM because I did not want to be rushed during the
hike or be caught out after sunset. This night it was too
windy to set up a tent by myself, so I elected to sleep in the Land
Rover. The LR3 is fairly convenient for cooking in windy
weather without having to actually put the stove inside the vehicle (I
worry about fire). I parked the truck heading into the wind
and cooked on the extended lower half of the tailgate.
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Camp
along the Racetrack Road
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Hike
toward Corridor Canyon. After reading Digonnet's book and
seeing Kathy Wing's pictures of Corridor Canyon,
I decided that I wanted to go there for my next hike in DVNP.
Reading many parts of
Digonnet's book had led me to believe that he is an accomplished
climber, or at least has significant rock climbing skills and little or
no fear of heights. He mentioned dry waterfalls in Corridor Canyon that
were easy for him. I
had been to a place in Marble Canyon where Digonnet describes a
chockstone as easily climbed and to me it was impossible. A
couple of Kathy's photos showed falls that also looked iffy to me.
So, at the outset of this hike I knew that there were places
that might stop me.
The hike down the canyon leading toward
the Corridor was easy going, and I enjoyed the scenery and taking
photos. Getting closer to the Corridor I began to notice
places where there were long linear features in the bed of
the wash. The same geologic setting and forces that had
formed the linear Corridor were at work here, but to a lesser degree.
My pictures of this hike can be seen here. As I entered the
narrows just before Corridor, there it was, the first dry fall.
The fall appeared to have two stages with a total of height
of 14-18 feet. The top part of the fall went down maybe 8
feet at a very steep incline until there was a sort of shelf
that appeared to have only about a 10° slope.
That shelf seemed project out about 12-16 inches.
Below that shelf, the face of the fall was hidden from view,
so it must have been pretty steep or perhaps even undercut. I
could see no good hand or footholds that would make the climb down to
the shelf secure. It looked like there was a crack in the
rock on the left hand side that opened up such that a person standing
on the shelf might be able to investigate to see if that
crack contained holds that would allow a safe descent to the bottom of
the fall. The problem for me was how to get to the shelf.
The rock was quite smooth from water abrasion, so descending
to the shelf would be a slippery affair. I tested my boots on
nearby smooth rocks that seemed to be at the same slope as the upper
part of the fall. My boots slid! I looked more around the
upper part of the fall-- no holds. I looked at the topo map
to see if there were a way around this obstacle -- did not look like
it. I figured I could probably slide down the upper part of
the falls using my feet, butt and hands for friction and stop at the
shelf, but how would I get back up again? It might be too
slippery to ascend. I was alone, so there was no one else
there who could give me a boost up or go for help if I fell and injured
myself. Reluctantly I decided to turn around, the risks of
continuing on were just too great for me.

Hidden Valley Camp at sunrise
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Loop Hike from Hidden Valley to
the Racetrack. George
Huxtable's book "Hiking
the Desert Trail" describes a cross-country hiking route through the
park going from Greenwater Valley in the south to
Cucomungo Canyon at the Nevada border on the north. Part of
that route passes through the mountains east of the Racetrack.
Since this was near my primary hiking goal of Corridor
Canyon, it caught my eye as another hike for my trip. I
prefer loop hikes so that I can see more areas in the same distance.
Looking at the topo map of the area it looked like there were
several possible loops I might make using the Huxtable route as part of
the loop. My general philosophy on cross-country loop hikes
is to try to hike the area that is likely to be most difficult early in
the hike, so that if I have to turn around I don't have a huge distance
to cover to return to my car. Based on that philosophy, I
planned to hike from Hidden Valley and take Huxtable's route
only
partway into the mountains, then follow a more northerly course than
what the
book describes and then come back following Huxtable's route in
reverse. A map of my hike along with pictures taken
along the way are posted. The
map shows my GPS track log as I traveled
this route. On the
way to the Racetrack
I deviated from the Desert Trail route by going down the main drainage
all the way to the Racetrack. This
drainage was narrow
at the top with a
couple of places where the wash is choked with 5- 6 foot boulders, but
it is
easy to walk around these boulders, and they really present no obstacle
whatsoever. The
wash broadens as one
proceeds down the drainage. All in all, I consider this a very easy
route down
to the racetrack, and I was walking on the sand of the wash most of the
time. I then went
out to the racetrack
Playa and headed south to try to pick up the Desert Trail route for my
eastbound leg. As I
began heading
eastbound, I noticed tracks
of several
people walking in that direction and I thought that perhaps they might
be
following the Desert Trail as well.
So
I simply followed those footsteps for a way.
After a while, it became clear that this was not going to
lead me on to
what I considered to be Huxtable's route.
At
that point, I headed north and picked up what I thought was the
Huxtable route through
the mountains. Since
I was going
eastbound it was difficult for me to simply follow the route as
described in the book. In
preparation for this hike
I sat down with a topographic map and the book and laid out points that
I
thought would be on the route and then uploaded those points to my GPS
and
created a GPS route with them. Then
going
from waypoint to waypoint, I figured I could follow the route in
reverse. I found the return
journey, much more difficult
than the path I had taken down the main drainage to get to the
Racetrack. At some
points I was even wondering if I was
really on the route that Huxtable had described; it was that much more
difficult
than my outbound leg. The westbound leg involved simply walking down
the bed of
the wash, whereas there was a lot of rock scrambling involved in my
eastbound
leg up to Huxtable's reference point called "overlook".
When
I got to "overlook" I did not find any footprints, and as I descended
the wash going northeasterly I
again
failed to find any more footprints. Therefore,
I corroborated my original assumption that the tracks I
saw down closer to the racetrack were really not following
the Desert Trail
. When I sent Huxtable a map of my route and some
of my
pictures, he told me that I had not actually followed his route.
I only returned to his route when I reached "overlook".
So, I have added two new ways to get from Hidden Valley to
the Racetrack, one an easy walk, the other a rough scramble.
I may want to go back some day to see how Huxtable's route
from "overlook" to the Racetrack compares to my path to "overlook".
Lippincott and Steele Pass
4-wheeling.
The
next day (Saturday) I met Dave and Graham from Big Pine and we visited
the Lost Burro Mine and the Racetrack. We camped that night
at
the top of the Lippincott Road, and the next day descended Lippincott
Road and then went through Saline Valley to Steele Pass and then into
Eureka Valley. Dave has posted his trip report on his website for Lippincott here and Steele Pass here.

Lippincott Camp |
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Eureka Valley Camp
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Sunday night I camped
in Eureka Valley northeast of the dunes. |
Sandy Peak Hike. Monday
morning I left Eureka Valley and proceeded east on the Big Pine-Death
Valley Road to the starting place for a hike to a peak with a benchmark
on top called Sandy, often referred to as Sandy Peak. I was
taking a leisurely time that morning and did not get to the start of
the hike until about 10:40 AM and started my hike at 10:50.
Getting such a late start turned out to be a problem for
making
it to the top. I followed the route described by Andy Zdon in Desert Summits.
The hills in this region are densely populated by sagebrush
and
some of the hillsides are also fairly rocky, so it was hard to take
more than three steps in a row in a straight line. That made
travel much slower than I had anticipated, and by the time I stopped
for lunch at about 12:15, I realized that it would not be likely that I
could reach the top and get back to my car before nightfall.
For
that reason I only hiked partway up the ridge that leads to the summit.
There were some great views from that ridge both looking to
the
Sierras in the west and the northern parts of Death Valley to the east.
Click here to see a few pictures and a map
of my route.
On the return leg of the trip I took a path west of the path I had
followed in and that was much preferable, so I would follow that route
instead of Zdon's for the first part of this hike. I got back
to
the car a little after 3 PM and headed for Eureka Valley Road north of
the Death Valley Road to find camp for the night. When I
first
arrived at my camp spot it was fairly windy, but after a while the wind
lessened and I was able to pitch my tent. At sunset I could
see
the tops of cumulus clouds peaking over the mountain tops to the west,
and after sunset flashes from lightning were visible to the west.
I figured the lightning was many miles away in the Sierras,
so I
did not think much about it and went to bed without pitching my rain
fly. At about 1:30 AM I awoke to the sound of strong winds.
I stepped outside the tent to asses the situation and could
make
out rain bands coming from some of the clouds. Then I decided it would
be good to put some things that might suffer water damage inside the
truck. While I was doing that, the wind blew my tent over.
Following that I made a mad scramble to empty the tent, take
it
down the rest of the way and then rearrange stuff so that I could sleep
in the Land Rover.

Camp
on the Eureka Valley Road before the storm.
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The trip home.
The next day the first order of business was to get to Big
Pine
for gas. From my calculations prior to the trip and from my
gas
gauge and the truck's trip computer it looked like I could do it
without resorting to my emergency stash of gas on the roof.
As I
started the trip to Big Pine all was looking good, but as the road
became mostly a downhill run, the trip computer started to make things
look tight. At the time (and now as well) I figured that the
tank
level sensor was not giving a true reading because of the downhill
attitude of the truck. As the road leveled out a couple of
miles
out of Big Pine the range to empty figure started to increase, so my
hypothesis was correct, and when I filled up I was two gallons shy of
empty. The views of the Sierras that day were more
spectacular
than usual as the storminess of the last night was still present and
clouds were spilling over the mountains and into the Owens valley below.
With a fresh gas supply I
headed for Panamint
Valley to take the jeep trail that lead across the Slate Range from the
intersection of the Goler Wash trail and the Wingate road. As
I
began this trail the weather was threatening rain and the trail was
very rocky, not really difficult driving, just sort of pain in the ass
sort of trail. I decided I had done enough 4-wheeling in the
last
several days, and it was time to head home. The Slate Range
trail
will wait for another day.
Then it was back to 395 and then a
series of
highways and byways to Scottsdale with a final camp a few miles east of
Ludlow off the National Trails Highway (old Route 66).