| 1.What's the first step?
Read through the instructions first. Look for assembly steps that are confusing or where many parts are assembled in one step.
2.How do I trim the parts from the sprue tree?
Use sharp pointed wire cutters to trim the parts from the tree. Often the novice will simply rip the part from the tree and then wonder why it is broken. An x-acto blade or the like will often tear the plastic away from the part and this can result in a pit or burr in the part. Use the wire cutters to snip the plastic above the surface of the part. Do not try to trim flush to the part with the first cut. This can often pull the sprue at the base of the part and result in a pit in the plastic.
3. How do I make sure the parts fit?
Use a model file, finger nail file, or a folded piece of sand paper to sand down the trimmed sprue flush with the surface of the part. Remove any burrs that many interfere with a good part to part mate. If you are not planning to paint your model, be sure to sand down to a fine grade of sand paper, at least 600, but 1000-1200 is better. If you were careful in trimming your parts from the sprue tree, when you are finished sanding there should be no visible mark that a sprue point was there.
4. Do I need to test fit?
Test fit any pieces before gluing. This may not be as critical with a new MG Gouf Custom, but on any of the older releases, part misalignment and gaps are a common thing. At this point, you may need to sand pieces down or prepare for additional clamping when you begin gluing. This may also mean more gap filling when you get to that point.
5. Should I glue my kit together?
With the introduction of the MG line of kits, Bandai's model design engineer's have eliminated many a need for model glue for the beginning modeler. With the newer MG and HGUC kits, part to part assembly often falls along natural seam lines. An advanced modeler may still wish to glue parts together for durability and because seam lines may fall in obvious places. The MG Zaku is a good example of seam lines being obvious. They fall across the front of the thighs, upper arm, fore arm, and lower leg.
With older kits you will more than likely have to glue parts together. The best way to accomplish this with the least amount to clean up is to use liquid cement. Testor's makes a decent liquid cement for plastic and is available in all hobby shops and any discount retailer that still has a model aisle. There are other options for liquid cement, some modelers make their own from basic chemicals, but for the average modeler, off the shelf liquid cement will last a while and work just fine. Follow the warnings on the side of the bottle for your safety. Without slopping the glue all over the place, I use an old #1 paint brush and apply it along the edge of the seam of each part, this softens the plastic. I assemble the parts with out squeezing them together so there is still a tiny gap left. I then apply the liquid cement to the parts and let it flow through the seam line. Then squeeze the parts together and use clothes pins or large paper clamps to hold the parts until they dry. The soften plastic should bead up along the seam. This is desired as it will reduce the amount of spot filling later on.
6. What do I do about part seams?
Novice modelers are often frustrated with the end results of their model because of rough seam lines. This is often the result of gaps in the seams, or excess glue lumps left behind. This is where an attention to detail really comes in. The cleanest smoothest paint job will look awful on a poorly built model. Paint will accentuate the scratches, burrs, glue marks, and gaps left in a model.
After all the glue has dried, it is time to evaluate all the subassemblies of your model. Look for gaps, scratches, glue blobs, etc., anything that will show up when you paint. The first step is to sand off any blobs that sit above the surface of the parts. Use model files or sand paper and sand down the glued seam to see what you have. If the parts were glued properly, there may be no seams to fill. You may also see small gaps where the parts didn't glue properly. Even if the surface is smooth, pits or gaps in the seam will still show up after painting.
Note on Sandpaper: The sandpaper I am referring to is Wet or Dry sand paper. This can be obtained in hardware stores, auto stores, discount retailers, and hobby stores. The brand I use is 3M wet or dry. There are hobby specific sheets of sand paper, but the 3M brand is more available and less expensive.
There are different grits to sand paper which refers to how smooth or rough it is. 100 grit will sand the paint off your house, while 1200 grit is used to polish out scratches on clear plastic. The grits or grades I often use are 220 for rough contour work on styrene, 320 and 360 to smooth a layer of putty, 400 for final smoothing work if the model is to be painted. You will want to sand down to at least 600 grit if you want a glossy or metallic finish for your model.
7. There are still gaps and pits, how do I get rid of these?
There are several solutions for filling pits and gaps in plastic kits. The two I use the most often are as follows.
Putty Tamiya and Squadron Signal both make gap filling putty for models. It comes in a tube and should last you through several models. Follow the warnings and instructions for your safety. I use a small dental tool to apply the putty to the spots where there are still pits or scratches in part. Wait for it to dry and use sand paper to smooth the putty till the surface is smooth and continuous.
Cyanoacrylades.The other approach is to use "Super Glue" to fill in the gaps. Use sand paper and files to smooth. The advantage to cyanoacrylades is that with and accelerator, they set up in minuets rather than putties which take hours to set.
When you finish the first round of surface filling and sanding, evaluate your model and repeat and filling and sanding as necessary. |
