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What power tools do I need?

The only power tool that you need is a good source of light!

However, there are other tools that you might find useful, depending on what you're doing!

You may find a small soldering iron useful for forming brass or copper fittings from sheet, strip or wire.

The Dremel and similar rotary tools are now on a their own page.

The use (not need) for "full-size" power tools will depend a great deal upon your interests - if you also plan to build furniture (or model cases) or have do-it-yourself projects around the home, get tools for these activities that you can also use for modeling (rather than get them for modeling and hope they'll be useful otherwise).

One of the more useful items will be a power drill, either a hand-held unit or a drill-press. The advantage of a drill-press is that the tool is fixed with respect to some surface ("table") which makes it a lot easier to drill holes with the proper alignment (but it won't solve all problems, such as inclined holes for masts). It can also be used to hold a variety of tools (such as "sanding drums") that will make some jobs easier. Most hand-held units have as an accessory some sort of stand that permits them to be used as a drill-press; however, these are typically much "shakier" than a purpose-build drill-press.

When you get to saws, what you will find a use for really depends on what you're doing. Unless you're scratchbuilding, you probably won't need a power saw; conversely, if you're harvesting your own wood from trees, you might want to include a chain saw in your toolkit. In general, however, there are three types of saws of potential interest:

"Table" saw (and the modeler's variants, such as the "Preac"): these are intended to make long straight cuts; you can't cut curves. You are typically limited as to the thickness of the work as well: 2" for a full-size table saw, 1/4" for a modeler's saw. However, they are unexcelled for cutting strips off full-size boards (for making planking, etc.) and making clean, straight cuts. In general, the bigger the blade diameter, the thicker the stock you can saw - if the saw has the power to make such a cut! In general, the resulting surface will be quite smooth, requiring only sanding to finish it.

"Scroll " or " Jig " saw: typically has a long arm with a short blade held vertically; the blade readily dismounts to permit replacement or "threading" through a hole in the stock, thus permitting inside cuts. The disadvantage is that the blade has only a limited degree of motion; you're probably limited to work under an inch in thickness. The key parameter here is the depth of the "throat" (the gap between the back of the blade and the frame) - that limits how long a piece of stock you can cut.

"Band" saws have a blade in a continuous loop that passes around a pair (or three) wheels and past a table. These have a large variety of blades available: very narrow (down to 1/16" inch) for the ability to turn sharp corners; very wide (up to several inches - the limit is the particular saw) for ensuring straight cuts (such as "splitting" a board in order to make thin, wide sheets). A bandsaw can be used to make inside cuts, but it's certainly not convenient (you either have to cut the blade, thread it through a hole in the work, and re-weld it, or saw through the work and glue the cut when you've done) as a jigsaw. The most useful saw if you have to cut thick stock (can even be used to make boards from logs). The key dimension here is the depth-of-throat (the gap between the side of the blade and the frame); a secondary key is the depth-of-cut - how thick a piece you can saw.

Both jig and band saw blades are usually "punched" out of sheet metal - the result is that the blades will tend to cut more aggressively on one side than the other. This can be a real nuisance if you're trying to cut a straight line using one of these saws - you have to compensate continuously in order to "follow the line". It can be done, however. Also, neither is likely to leave a smooth cut.

If you are "milling" your own "lumber", some sort of "thicknessing" device will be useful. These are typically some form of abrasive drum whose surface is parallel to an adjustable table. Passing the stock between the drum and table "planes" one side smooth(er), successive passes on each side will permit the stock to be reduced to the desired thickness. The key dimension here is the length of the drum, since that will determine the maximum width of stock that can be thicknessed.

Lathe: a lathe is used to "turn" stock around an axis while a cutting tool is used to remove material from the circumference. Lathes come in two "types": "Wood" lathe (the cutter is a chisel controlled by hand) and "Metal" lathe (the tool is fixed on some sort of carriage whose motion is controlled by hand-cranked screws). Frankly, neither type is that great an advantage in ship modeling. The most common "cylindrical" objects on a ship model are masts and spars, Steering-wheels, dead-eyes, and belaying-pins; the first of these are awkward to turn because of their flexibility; the latter two will be required in such quantities that making them all identical becomes a chore. The metal lathe has the slight edge in utility because it typically has some form of chuck that can hold the work (the wood lathe more commonly attaches the stock to the lathe for the duration of the operations, and significant time can be spent putting the stock on and taking it off).

See also More about Lathes...

Milling machine: like a drill-press with a vise that can be moved around using cranked screws to position it accurately. "If you don't know what a milling machine is, you don't need one!"; if you do know, you also know what to look for.
{Compiled from various discussions on the ShipModeling Email list by John O. Kopf}

Just a couple of observations on the hard-earned money headed for Xmas tool purchases. I worked as an organ builder in a shop where we necessarily worked with many different materials - woods, steel, non-ferrous metals, leather, plastics - to name a few. Much like ship modelers, on a somewhat larger scale. One big difference in a big shop is that the tools will be used by many different workers, which means that the tools get maximum wear. Only the very best tools held up for any length of time. My experience would place Milwaukee tools near the top, Craftsman near the bottom. So, should you buy the most expensive tool you can? I would say no. I have Craftsman tools that still work fine after many years. Why? Because I'm the only one that uses them. I'm easy on tools and other mechanical devices. If you are too, you can get often very good service out of a less-expensive tool.

If, however, you are one of the folks that can f...ummm...do serious damage to an anvil with a rubber hammer, your money will be well-spent on sturdier, and necessarily more expensive tools. Similarly, if your bandsaw is 8 feet tall and all cast iron, it will not need to be adjusted every time the weather changes. But, when you get into miniature versions of tools, every adjustment becomes critical. It is also very easy to overload them, and things like the exactly appropriate blade for the job become important. This is not a criticism of small tools, it's a simple fact. Some extraordinarily well-made small tools can overcome this scale effect to some extent, but that usually comes with a huge price tag. I hope this helps a bit in making that decision. If you can afford the best, by all means, treat yourself. For the rest of us, you can do excellent work with less expensive tools if you treat them well, and use them within reasonable limits.
{Gene Smith}

When talking about workplace lighting, there are a few things to consider (besides cost, of course):

The light should not cast shadows from yourself (head, hands, ...)
The light should not flicker! This is important when you want to use tube lamps. In Germany it is required by law that in workplaces those lamps must be installed in pairs, oscillating asynchronus. This is achieved by "duo" wiring. The lamps flicker exactly out of phase. You don't get stroboscope effects on i.e. rotating machines etc, and this is also done to prevent headaces.
I found that using one tube in my workshop created the effect that my drillpress actually looked as if it was standing still, when indeed it was not!
The light should be a "warm" colour, this means low UV emissions. So don't use "greenhouse" lamps.
The lighting should be sufficient, but not too bright. Ok, that's obvious, but nontheless stated in the workplaces regulations here.

{Thomas Bögel}

I have an old Unimat SL1000 lathe. Years ago Edelstaal™ marketed a 3 1/2" blade with arbor that mounted to the lathe and a small table with rip fence and cutting guide. I used to have one but got rid of it because:

I found that I used a saw so much that constantly setting up and taking down the attachment so I could use the Unimat for other purposes got to be a pain.
Metal lathes REALLY don't like sawdust! I was constantly having to disassemble and clean the cross slide and power feed because sawdust mixed with lubricant would gum up the works.

In my opinion multi-tool attachments for lathes are most useful when they are substitutes for tools that we rarely use. I have router/planer and scroll saw attachments for my Unimat that I rarely use but which save me from having two other power tools taking up space in the shop. However, most of us use a table saw so much that it makes sense to have a dedicated one.
{Joel Labow}

There is one additional machine that may be useful for someone. That is a "Screw-cutting Lathe". These are industrial machines, weighing tons, and with exotic power requirements, such as 200V or 440V 3-phase power. Not what you'd find in your home! They're also hard to adjust (you can spend hours on one of these!)

However, once set up, they can turn out identical complex objects, such as belaying pins or cannon barrels, by the thousands/hour! And, Ive seen them sitting in the back of a used-machinery dealer for $500-$1000.

If your willing to undergo the time and expense, you might be able to make a nice business of producing cannons in all scales and cannon-ball weights.
{John O. Kopf}

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