How to Install a Diesel Engine in 800 Easy Steps ^1.

by

Jack Harding

s/v Rapport

^1. WARNING: Postings on this webpage are the observations, opinions and work projects of individual Flicka owner(s). Consult with a profession surveyor, boatwright or boatyard before undertaking any work or project which was described or posted at this site.

PREFACE

Remember that old Star Trek episode where the aliens found a badly mangled human in a wrecked spaceship? They tried to reconstruct her but botched the job because they had no example of a human to turn to. She turned out hideous! Well, your own engine installation could turn out like that space traveler if there isn't a Flicka with a diesel nearby to look at. Pictures and descriptions are O.K. but having the real thing next to you can ensure a pretty ending.

In finishing out my Flicka RAPPORT, I would say the engine installation was the most difficult (and the most rewarding) project. There are three things required before you attempt this;

If your Flicka lacks any of these features then the job will be even more difficult - consult with a marine professional.

This should not be your first project. I haven't written about every little nuance of the job because it would double the length of this article! You must be capable with hand tools and with fiberglass work. You must use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness of fasteners. The most difficult part of the job is getting the engine and shaft aligned properly. Everything else is bolt on - hook up (or, as we say in South Park Marina - "Hammer to Fit, Paint to Match"). In addition, you will need to determine where the diesel fuel tank will go and what material to fabricate it. You will have to route electrical cables, fuel supply/return lines and raw water cooling hoses. You will also have to install a water-lift muffler, thru-hull fittings, fuel filter, raw water strainer, engine control lever/cabling, instrument panel and maybe even another battery. The installation of an engine will take up a lot of storage. You will not be able to use any of that wonderful space under the cockpit anymore and the diesel tank will take up some more valuable room. You will be adding about 200 lb. of permanent weight to a boat that already weighs as much as a chip off the ol' Rock of Gibraltar. A diesel will push you through currents better than an outboard but, as Puffin demonstrated, even an outboard powered Flicka can take on the strong currents of Alaska's Inside Passage (careful planning is the key). And the expense! Yeooow! You're looking at an estimated $7,000 (1999) perhaps more. That's a lot of rum! But you're going to do it anyway, aren't you?

PARTS, MATERIALS AND TOOLS

The following list of parts, materials and instructions may look overwhelming, but don't despair. Just do one thing at a time and eventually you'll get there. The equipment below is my recommendation only and does not mean these are the only items that will work. Lengths are not given for some of the materials because I don't know where you may be installing a certain item - measure twice, cut once. The editorial comments are mine alone and should be taken with a grain of salt water. The following instructions apply to a Yanmar 1GM10 diesel; other engines are available. There is a must have manual available from your Yanmar dealer on how to install your diesel engine, however it does not describe how to install a fiberglass stern tube - it describes the bolt-on version. Most of my instructions deal with stern tube alignment and installation. Ask for the Marine Engine Installation Manual for Pleasure Boat Use (part number 0000A0A1028-830411). Two more books that are so-so: From a Bare Hull by Ferenc Mate and Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat by Daniel Spurr (illustrated by none other than Bruce Bingham!). After installation, taking a diesel maintenance class from a local dealer would be a great idea. With the Yanmar manual, a ship's store catalog and a diesel equipped Flicka nearby you don't need my inane ramblings. If I got something wrong or if this is confusing please forgive me - I'm writing much of this from memory. Contact me for clarification. Onward!

PARTS

Don't buy anything without making sure all the mating parts all compatible.

Morse MV-2 single lever, Berkeley, right hand engine control. I don't like it but it's the only one around.

Morse 33C Supreme Red-Jacket (sic) control cables - push/pull for fuel and transmission. Nice!

2-blade bronze prop or 3-blade bronze prop for 1" shaft. Two blade O.K. in current, great for light air sailing as it can hide in the prop aperture deadwood. Three blade great in current, bad for light air sailing. This is a section where I can't give any concrete answers because of the variations in engine, transmission and hull aperture configurations. A decent prop shop will have a computer program set up to advise you of the proper diameter and pitch. You will need to know engine horsepower, hull type (full keel, sailboat), transmission reduction ratio, aperture dimensions, etc. There are at least three different transmission reduction ratio options available on the Yanmar - look for the information stamped on the top of the transmission. The horsepower rating for a 1GM is 7.5 hp. and the horsepower rating for the 1GM10 is 9 hp.

1" I.D. x 1-1/4" OD shaft bearings (2 required). These are also called cutlass bearings. This will be the Morse "Blackfish" or the Johnson "Back". Other sizes are available - depends on which stern tube you use. See which one you're more comfortable with. (EDITOR: Cutlass bearing sizes are denoted by "names.")

Racor Model 500FG fuel filter/water separator. (Yeooow, look at the size of that thing!) If you can still find the 250FG use it 'cause it's smaller. I do not recommend the Fram series.

Groco ARG500 water strainer. This is for 1/2" hose. ( I like bronze)

1/2" raw water hose vacuum breaker (also called a vented loop). (I like bronze.)

1/2" or 3/4" Groco seacock with thru-hull fitting and tailpiece. (I like bronze - is there an echo in here?)

Vetus LP45 water lock (or water-lift muffler). This model is plastic and could melt. Naqualift makes a fiberglass version but it is harder to mount. I used the Vernalift by Vernay.

1-5/8" (or 1-1/2" or 2") exhaust thru-hull fitting with a 90 degree elbow (bronze or stainless). You see a problem here? The exhaust pipe from the engine exhaust pipe is 45 mm, which is approx. 1-5/8". There are no 1-5/8" thru-hulls available, however there is 1-5/8" exhaust hose available (?) If you cannot find a 1-5/8" thru-hull you will have to shim a 1-1/2" fitting or file down a 2" fitting. Arrrgh. Maybe the proper part can be ordered through Pacific Seacraft.

1-1/4" I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. fiberglass stern tube. This is also called a shaft log. This piece will be fiberglassed inside the hull to provide support for the shaft bearing and prop. It must be long enough to extend approx. 2" aft of the propeller aperture and forward into the engine compartment about a foot away from the engine coupler. There will have to be some trimming so there will be a some wastage.

1-5/8" I.D. Shields Series 250 wet exhaust hose (with wire) for making a loop inside the transom.

1-5/8" I.D. Shields Series 200 wet exhaust hose (without wire) for the short straight run from the engine exhaust to the water-lift muffler.

1/4", 5/16" and 5/8" Type 2 (A2) rated diesel fuel return/supply/vent line. Expensive, but worth it.

5/8" thru-hull vent. Attwood part number 1670-3 or bronze if you desire. If you vent out through the bow be sure to point it 45 degrees aft. I vented mine out the side of the combing. I've also seen them vented out the transom.

Fuel vent line surge protector. Attwood part number 1675-6. This fitting stops diesel fuel from escaping through the vent while refueling.

1/2" raw water hose for cooling the engine.

1" Aquamet propeller shaft material. Yes, we take Visa. Measure for length when the engine is in place but not permanently mounted. Make sure when you determine the shaft length, the prop and zinc mounting lengths are taken into account.

1" Drive Saver or similar synthetic coupler spacer. This eliminates electrical currents through the shaft and cuts down vibration. Not required but Martha Stewart said "It's a good thing".

1" or 1-1/2" diesel fill deck plate. (bronze would look nice) Size to fit your diesel tank hose barb.

1" I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. shaft seal. I recommend the new dripless type of shaft seal. They're maintenance free. The traditional stuffing box will wear out the shaft in the area where the flax seats and it must be adjusted periodically.

Prop shaft zinc's - you've got three choices here. The streamline collar, the limited clearance and the prop nut. I like the prop nut version best but you decide what's right for you. (EDITOR: The proper way to place the nuts hold the prop to the shaft is, the thin nut goes on first followed by the thicker nut.)

Diesel tank with hose barbs for 1" or 1-1/2" fill hose, 5/8" vent hose, 5/16" supply line, 1/4" return line and gauge if possible. Material in order of preference: monel, aluminum, black iron. The tank needs to be built with baffles and all sorts of fittings so find a good welder.

TOOLS

Level

Protractor

Adjustable square

Plumb bob.

Torque wrench.

Hot melt glue gun.

Assorted hole saws from 1/2" to 1-1/2" dia.

Drill motor, jig saw, etc.

Assorted tools, stir sticks, buckets, bedding compound, etc.

Come-along.

MATERIALS

Extra battery. If you only have one battery you should add another for engine starting. It should be at least an 70AH. Deep cycle is O.K.

Electrical cabling to starter motor. The gauge depends on how long the runs are - the shorter the runs the smaller gauge. The manual will tell you correct gauge. Run it through the battery switch.

All stainless hose clamps

Couple gallons fiberglass resin & Catalyst.

A two gallon bucket full of chopped fiberglass strand. Make your own if you don't mind getting itchy.

2' x 2' x 1/8" piece of plywood (any grade). This will be used to construct a dam that will support the stern tube.

PHOTOS

The photos: (Flicka Kiri courtesy of Don Marken) Sorry about the quality but my flash stopped working and it was available light only. I hope they give you a general idea.

Photo 1: Exhaust thru-hull fitting location. Put it a little higher than this if you would like because it has a tendency to submerge under power.

Photo 2: Looking aft at the front of the engine and showing the engine bed.

Photo 3: Older style removable cockpit sole. Also shows old style two lever control mounted on starboard cockpit riser.

Photo 4: Engine shut off switch mounted inside cockpit locker. This pull lever shuts off the fuel flow to the engine. Other locations in the cockpit are possible - look at other boats for ideas.

Photo 5: Instrument panel mounted to transom. This is the best place because it is out of the way, yet still accessible and fairly dry.

Photo 6: View of raw water loop vent mounted in the cockpit locker. The top of the vent has a hose clamped to it and the hose is vented outboard. Not necessary to vent overboard but keeps things clean.

Photo 7: Looking down into the bilge where the two cockpit drains thru-hulls are located. Note the location of the raw water thru-hull and where the factory mounts the water strainer. You can mount the strainer almost anywhere if you don't like this location.

Photo 8: Looking down into the engine compartment for a general view.

Photo 9: Closer look at the water-lift muffler, dripless shaft seal and Drive Saver(in red). The water-lift muffler must be mounted as close to the boat's centerline as possible. A shelf must be built to mount this type of water-lift muffler. The shaft seal is clamped to the stern tube. The stern tube is glassed into the hull behind the shaft seal.

Photo 10: View of Racor fuel filter and electrical fuel pump. You will not need the electric fuel pump if a siphon effect can be made in the fuel line. The fuel filter must be mounted lower than the injector or air leaks will develop and the engine will die.

INSTRUCTIONS

Note: Grease EVERYTHING that has any metal to metal contact!!!! This includes the prop to shaft joint, prop coupler to engine coupler, shaft to coupler joint, etc. and ALL threads. Replace all plated bolts, washers, etc. with stainless if you can. The most critical and difficult procedure in this project is aligning the engine. The engine must be aligned in three different planes. The alignment relative to the waterline (horizontal) will be accomplished with a bubble level, protractor and adjustable square. The side to side alignment (yaw) will be accomplished when the engine is on centerline and the stern tube is glassed in. The vertical alignment will be accomplished by equalizing the engine mount heights. Before you pull the boat, determine your boat's water level by measuring down the cockpit drain hose and marking that level on the hose with tape. Pull the boat. It is an easier installation if you take the time to level the boat at this time. Not necessary, but remember what Ms. Stewart says, Use colored water in 1/2" clear plastic hose fore and aft and athwartships to easily level your boat. Remove the rudder. It is held on with one, two or three 1/4" bronze screws located on the underside of the pintles. Use a car jack (slowly!) if you're having problems pushing the rudder up. Move the rudder back and forth to overcome friction. Don't force it! Locate the stern tube support area on the hull in the propeller aperture. Decide at this point what size stern tube you wish to use.

Drilling the Hole for the Shaft Log in the Keel

NOTE: This operation is critical to the success of the project. It is recommended that you consult with a marine professional before undertaking this part of the project.

If you use the 1-5/8" you may have a problem finding a 1-5/8" shaft seal. I believe I used a 1-1/2" stern tube. Locate the center of the stern tube support in the prop aperture and drill a 1/4" hole. You will be drilling through about 1/2" to 1" of fiberglass. Using the 1/4" hole as a guide, drill a hole sized for your stern tube. Install the engine mounts onto the engine. Adjust them to their middle positions for now. Ensure the proper mounts are installed to either the front or the rear of the engine. Although they look similar, they are not interchangeable. #70 go on the front and #50 go on the rear. Hoist the engine up using a come-along on the boom end or whatever system you can devise. Lower the engine through the companionway opening. This is easier than lowering it through the access hatch. The dry engine weight is approx. 160 lb..

YAW ALIGNMENT

First, we will align the engine in the "yaw" direction. Open the engine compartment access hatch. Slide the engine aft along the engine bed until it is approx. centered fore and aft and all the mounts are properly supported. If you want to make use of the engine decompression lever for hand starting (which, by the way, has never been successfully achieved) make sure you can operate the lever in its full up position. If it hits the underside of the cockpit, lower the mounts. If it still hits, bend the lever 90 degrees (this is what I had to do). There should be at least 3/8" clearance from any part of the engine and the bed (use a 3/8" wooden dowel or bolt). Remember, when this single cylinder engine is idling it will be moving all over the place and if you do not have the proper clearance the engine will be banging against the side of the bed. You will have to redo the hole locations or grind fiberglass (this is a Screw Top Tale!). Insert the stern tube through the hole you drilled. Leave about two inches of the stern tube sticking out of into the aperture. You may have to relieve the hole a little with a file to allow the stern tube to fit through. It is O.K. if the hole becomes irregular because you're going to fiberglass the entire area anyway. Insert one of the shaft bearings into the aft end of the stern tube. Insert one of the shaft bearings into the forward end of the stern tube. Rub soapy water liberally inside the bearings. This will allow the prop shaft to slide easily along the bearings. Insert the prop shaft through the bearings and into the prop coupler. Fasten the prop coupler to engine coupler. Locate the centerline of the boat above the front of the engine. I used the uppermost step of the companionway and drew a line at the midpoint. If you have leveled the boat, hang a plumb bob from the center mark and align the engine using the center of the engine crankshaft pulley. If you have not leveled the boat - use a large carpenter's square at the midway mark and go down 90 degrees to the center of the engine crankshaft pulley. Centering the engine crankshaft and temporarily installing the prop shaft/stern tube will center the engine the "yaw" direction.

Double check the alignment. Mark the engine mount bolt locations (8 places). Remove the engine and prop shaft. Drill eight 1/8" pilot holes on the mounting hole centerlines - DO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE HULL. At this point you will discover if there is a steel plate cast inside the engine bed by looking at the shavings the drill bit is bringing up. If there are steel bits in the fiberglass dust then you have a steel plate inside the bed. If there are no steel bits coming from the drill bit, you will have to make your own plates. If your engine bed has a steel plate already cast inside the engine bed all you have to do is drill and tap for 3/8-16 bolts. Use the drill bit recommended on the tap and then use the tap. Use a little oil, go slow, a quarter turn in and a quarter out to remove metal bits and you'll be fine. This will make it easier to install the bolts. If your engine bed does not have plates cast inside the bed you will have to make plates with the proper hole locations and holes drilled and tapped for 3/8-16 bolts. I would use approx. 3/8" x 1" x 15" bronze. Use the engine mounts for the proper hole locations. Drill the 8 mounting holes in the engine bed to 1/2" diameter to allow easier installation. Cut a small rectangle in the end of the bed and insert the plate inside the bed and fasten the engine mounting bolts to the plate. If you have access to the underside of the engine bed you may be able to use regular nuts, fender washers and lock washers instead of plates (much easier). Reinstall the engine. Install the engine mounting bolts. Use 3/8-16 stainless steel bolts, washers and lock washers. Grease them heavily. Reinstall the prop shaft, bearings and stern tube.

HORIZONTAL ALIGNMENT

The engine now needs to be aligned to the correct angle in relation to the water. This is what I call the horizontal direction. Your Yanmar should not be mounted more than 15 degrees relative to the water level since the oil pump will be ineffective. The optimum angle to the water would be 0 degrees but that's rarely possible. Between 5 and 10 degrees would be good. Yanmar specs their engine out at 8 degrees. This alignment will be accomplished through the use of the adjustable engine mounts. With a protractor and an adjustable square, mark off whatever angle you desire (I used 5 degrees). If you have leveled the boat, use the adjustable square in conjunction with a bubble level to establish the correct angle. If you have not leveled your boat, use the engine bed as a level reference point and then use the adjustable square and bubble level to establish the correct angle of the engine. With the bubble level/adjustable square on top of the prop shaft, adjust the engine mounts up or down as required until you get the correct angle.

VERTICAL ALIGNMENT

The next step is to ensure correct vertical direction. This is accomplished by making sure the two front mounts have equal amount of threads showing (example: 3/8" port and starboard). Next, the two rear mounts need to have the same amount of threads showing (example: 1/2" port and starboard). Adjust the mounts until you have achieved horizontal and vertical alignment. This might take a while. Once all the directions are correct, tighten the locking nuts. Double check the alignment.

Now you must make a structural support to hold the stern tube in place. This will be accomplished by making a plywood dam (or bulkhead if you wish to call it that) near the end of the stern tube and filling the cavity aft of the dam with chopped fiberglass strand and resin. Using 1/8" plywood, fashion a dam with a slot large enough for the stern tube and curves that match the curves of the bilge. It will take quite a few tries to accomplish this. You can use popcicle sticks and hot melt glue or cardboard to fashion a preliminary guide . Make sure the top of the dam is approx. 1" above the top of the stern tube. Also make sure that there is at least 3" of stern tube exposed forward of the dam. This is to provide clamping surface for the shaft seal. Add a piece of plywood to close off the top of the slot. When you have completed the dam, hot melt glue it to the hull and stern tube. Make sure there are no holes for the resin to seep through. Lay a bead of hot melt glue around the stern tube in the prop aperture to prevent resin leakage there also. DO NOT disturb the plywood or the stern tube after this point! Do not touch the engine! Do not do anything that will alter the alignment of the shaft! (Screw Top) The next step is to pour enough fiberglass in the resulting cavity (aft of the dam) to permanently set the stern tube in place. Do the pour in several stages because if you fill the entire cavity at once you will start a fire when it heats up (Screw Top). I would fill the cavity in five or six pours to be safe. Make sure you completely cover the stern tube by at least an inch. This may take several days. A level boat at this point will ensure a level pour when you are done. Make sure you get a high fiberglass to resin ratio because a resin rich mixture will crack and will not provide proper support for the stern tube. 50-50 ratio would be nice. Use a stick to force the mixture into all areas. No voids are allowed. After the fiberglass has set for a couple days, remove the bearings and prop shaft.

At the prop aperture, trim off the extra length of stern tube and make it flush with the hull. Drill two 1/8" holes at 3:00 and 9:00 about 2" inches from the end of the stern tube. Install a shaft bearing in the aft end of the stern tube and, using the hole locations you just drilled, gently drill a very small mark on the bearing's bronze housing. Remove the bearing and drill a 5/16" diameter hole no more than halfway into the bearing's bronze housing. These dimples will receive 1/4"-20 set screws that prevent the bearing from spinning out. Mark on the outside of the housing where the holes are located to more easily align the dimples. Drill and tap the two holes (at 3:00 & 9 :00) in the hull (prop aperture) to accept 1/4"-20 threads. The correct drill size is given on the tap shaft. You may need two taps for this job because fiberglass is pretty hard on taps. Install the shaft bearing and install two 1/4"-20 stainless steel set screws in each hole. The second set screw will act as a locking device. Do not over tighten! Take the prop and prop shaft (and zinc if it's the prop nut type) to a marine machine shop. Tell them you don't know what the length is yet but you wish to have the shaft machined to accept the prop. It will most likely be a standard Morse taper with a keyway. After the shaft is machined, reinstall the rudder and screws. Tie it hard to one side. Reinstall the prop/prop shaft assembly through the stern tube/shaft bearing and into the coupler(s). Make sure the zinc prop nut is installed. Swinging the rudder back and forth, progressively cut off the shaft on the coupler end until it clears the rudder. Don't cut off too much! If you do not have prop nut zinc make sure you leave enough room between the prop and the hull for the collar zinc. Important! Remove the prop. Take the cut-to-length prop shaft and the shaft coupler back the machine shop. Tell them you want them to true the shaft, square the coupler to the shaft and machine a keyway and drill dimples where the set screws come in from the coupler. Ask them for a couple extra keyways.

When the shaft is finished, reinstall the prop shaft assembly and do the final engine coupler to prop coupler alignment. The procedure is in the owner's manual. It is a lot easier if you install another shaft bearing in the forward part of the stern tube to support the shaft. It is more of a hassle but you'll get a more accurate reading. Remove the bearing when you're through and keep it as a spare. Install the shaft seal (follow manufacturer's instructions), propeller (using the keyway), zinc and shaft bearing (using the set screws).

INSTALLING SUPPORT HARDWARE

The fuel filter must not be installed higher than the injector! (Another Screw Top Tale) Make sure you can remove the fuel filter cover to change filters. If you put a 5/16" squeeze bulb (used in outboard engines) in the fuel supply line you can pressurize the system a lot quicker than relying on the manually operated engine mounted fuel pump primer. If a siphon effect is created in the line you should not have to install an electric fuel pump like the factory does. Remove the bulb after the siphon effect is established. The exhaust thru-hull fitting is installed on the transom. I would place it a little higher than where the factory does because it has a tendency to submerge while motoring. Make sure there is a large loop going all the way to the top of the transom to break any siphon effect. A U-shaped vacuum break (plastic or bronze) would be a good idea at this point. Pay close attention to the exhaust pipe/cooling water hose routing diagram in the installation guide. The water strainer can be installed just about anywhere but make sure you can reach it for cleaning. The owner's manual will tell you what gauge wire to use and how large a battery to use for the starter motor. Locate the instrument panel on the transom just below the tiller. There is not enough room behind the panel to allow the engine cutoff switch to function so you will have to locate the switch in the cockpit locker. Use a small piece of aluminum angle bolted to the side of the cockpit riser and mount the cutoff switch to that. The instrument panel wiring on a Yanmar is real straight forward - just a couple plugs. Coil up the remainder of the wiring and mount it under the cockpit.

The raw water thru-hull fitting should be mounted way below the waterline so that when the boat heels over the thru-hull is still in water. To counteract this problem I installed and connected two 1/2" thru-hulls - one on each side of the keel. A vacuum break must be installed in the system. This is to prevent raw water from siphoning back through the hose and sinking the boat. The vacuum breaker must be installed at a certain height from the exhaust cooling water injector. The Pacific Seacraft boats have the breaker inside the cockpit locker and vented outboard. Pay close attention to the exhaust pipe/cooling water hose routing diagram in the installation guide. Route all wiring and hoses with proper supports so there will be no chafe problems. Fuel line is especially soft and wears through easily. Electrical wiring chafes and can lead to shorts. Raw water leaks will lead to engine overheating. The water-lift muffler must be mounted lower than the exhaust pipe. Make sure you hook up the water injection cooling hose properly or the water-lift muffler will melt. You will have to glass in a small shelf to mount the Vetus type water-lift muffler. The engine control lever recommended by Yanmar is the single lever type. Why, I don't know - the two lever system works O.K. Mount it on the starboard cockpit riser so the cable routing is easily facilitated. Route the control cables through the space in the transom back to the engine. Follow the owner's manual to adjust the cable settings. I believe the diesel tank in Pacific Seacraft boats is located in the bow. It is fiberglass and is filled through a deck plate bolted to the tank surface. Another deck plate must be installed on the foredeck. If you choose this location, make sure the diesel fuel supply and return line is completely protected from chafe as it leads aft to the engine. A small tank may be fabricated out of stainless or aluminum and located in the hanging locker or maybe the Q-berth. Remember - whether the tank is empty or full will affect the balance of the boat. (again, Screw Top)

FINAL CHECK

After all the systems are hooked up, check them again. While the boat is still out of the water it is a good time to check that all the systems are operational. Add oil to the transmission and crankcase and add a few gallons to your fuel tank. Simulate the ocean by sticking the raw water cooling hose into a 5 gallon bucket of water. Make sure there is more water available if you need to fill the bucket. Using the hand crank make sure the engine turns over smoothly - use the decompression lever. Make sure the electrical system is working by turning the key on and listening for the low oil pressure warning buzzer. Ensure that the engine shut off switch is not pulled ON. Make sure everyone is clear of the boat and start 'er up. If there is no water running out of the exhaust fitting after about 2 minutes or if a warning buzzer sounds off - shut 'er down! Fix the problem before you start it up again. If the engine is running properly, shut it down after about 5 minutes. Reattach the raw water hose to the thru-hull. Put the boat in the water. If you have a dripless shaft seal, be sure you "burp" the unit before engaging the transmission. Break-in the engine per the manufacturers suggestions. Always run your diesel under load (leave it tied to the dock and put it into forward gear if you don't go out) about once a week for about half an hour. Keep your fuel tank full and add some biocide to the fuel. Change your oil three times a year, change your fuel filter(s) and engine zinc's once a year and you be smiling! Congratulations! What's next? How about a Disco Deck?

^1. WARNING: Postings on this webpage are the observations, opinions and work projects of individual Flicka owner(s). Consult with a profession surveyor, boatwright or boatyard before undertaking any work or project which was described or posted at this site.