THE BOBBIN

No matter what form or technique used in working bobbin lace, the bobbin is the one tool that is difficult to dispense with. The prime function of the bobbin is to act as a weight for the suspended thread. As such, the earliest bobbin were simply a stone or piece of wood that could be attached to the end of the hanging thread to keep it in tension. With the refinement of lace techniques, the bobbin took on the additional functions of storing the unused thread (as the warp beam does on a loom), keeping the fine threads protected from dirt, and acting as a useful handle to allow easy manipulation of the attached threads.

As the lace regions developed their characteristic lace styles, so did they develop their characteristic lace bobbins. Some had straight shafts, others distinct sculptural forms. In Austria a hooded bobbin was developed with a wooden hood to cover the unused thread. Weights were often added to the bobbin shaft to increase the tension in the thread. Characteristic beads and those from unusual origins were typically used for this purpose. Most bobbins had a narrow neck at the top portion on which the threads were wound. An additional small neck or notch was often provided to secure the supporting knot of the attached thread.

Materials were typically bone or hardwood, although bobbins were formed of almost any material. Ivory, silver, and brass were used to decorate bobbins as well as basic bobbin materials. Bobbins were molded, blown from glass, turned on lathes, or simply carved. Many were inlaid with silver and brass or just wound with lengths of these materials. As mementos, gifts, and keepsakes, many old bobbins are decorated with inscriptions relating to almost anything.

As the weaver will treasure a smooth fine shuttle, so the lacemaker treasures the fine bobbin. Use and age only enhance these as they obtain their smooth polished finish.

The size and weight of the bobbin will depend on the material being used. For fine threads, a light 4 inch bobbin is quite satisfactory. For heavy threads and cords, bobbins can get up to 9 inches long before they become too awkward to handle. The cord or thread is wound on the upper third of the bobbin, allowing the lower two-thirds to serve as the handle. When fine white threads are used, a recess to receive the wound thread will tend to keep it clean. The portion below this recess should be shaped for holding in the hand. For cords and heavier materials, a simple straight shaft can be used with a single notch to receive the supporting knot. Where thread length is limited, such as the hanging warp threads of a woven piece, a narrow notch or saw cut in one end of the bobbin will secure the thread at its end without requiring knotting. If this notch is put on the lower or handle end, it will not interfere with normal thread attachment.

Bobbins can easily be made from straight dowel stock of various sizes or improvised using chicken leg bones that have been cleaned and bleached, ordinary sticks, or straight twigs, pencils, clothespins, and so on. Common construction nails, which come in many sizes and weights, can be used, although double headed nails work better. Tubular porcelain electrical insulators work well and have a lovely sound. Weavers can use their fly shuttle bobbins or tapestry bobbins as working bobbins.

If the weight of your bobbin is not sufficient, additional weight can be hung from the bobbin by a wire.

A simple shaft bobbin can be made from a 3/8 inch round dowel. It should be between 6 and seven inches long, and the ends rounded. Cut a groove completing completely around the dowel 1/2 inch from one end. This is the holding groove for the thread. Then wind the rest of the thread on the dowel.

Grandpa Spragg

GrandpaSpragg@att.net