After finishing up in Kakadu, we hot footed on down to Katherine where we had been introduced to another Servas couple by Alan Mitchell. They are David and Norma Higgens who live on a farm just outside of Katherine with their son Tasman, dogs Hurricane and Carley, a couple of cats and a whole assortment of farm yard critters. Like Alan, they were also in the midst of a remodel, only on a grander scale with the addition of several rooms and patios. Like everyone that we’ve met in Oz they are just great people and opened their house to us. We were introduced around to the critters and then set up our trailer in their back yard. We spent the next day catching up on correspondence, watching the wild wallabies munch ever closer to the homestead, and doing a little shopping in Katherine. On the following day, we headed off to see the main attraction of the area, Katherine Gorge.
The gorge has been carved out by the Katherine River which still flows through it. At this time of year the flow is very gentle and we decided to rent a canoe for the day in order to explore the gorge at our own pace.
Unfortunately, we arrived just a little late at the canoe rentals and got stuck with an old leaky one, named the Minnow II, that required baling most of the time (Bail, Karen, Bail!). That didn’t detract from our enjoyment of the trip, though - it was just wonderful!
There are a series of gorges above the visitor’s center with the first three being the most accessible. Rapids separate each section and the canoe had to be pulled up through these, but the calm areas in between allowed for lots of smooth, quiet paddling. We brought along a lunch of wine, crackers, smoked oysters, cheese, lemon and salami which we enjoyed at a great little spot in the second gorge where we could pull the canoe out and go for a swim.
The walls of the gorge towered above us and a little breeze kept things from getting to hot. We met a couple touring from the States (Chicago, I think) while taking our swim, and had a nice chat about our mutual experiences in Oz.
We decided to paddle up to the end of the third gorge which turned out to be a mistake, because we then had to paddle like hell to get back to the canoe hire before closing time. It started to rain just as we pulled into the dock, so I guess we timed it just about right. All in all, it was a great experience that shouldn’t be missed by anyone going through the area, and we recommend that you get there early to get a more water tight canoe! If you’re not up to paddling and wading the canoe through the rapids, there is a powered, sit down, boat tour that goes to the end of the third gorge. For the real adventurous, there a total of 13 gorges that take several days to negociate!
That evening Norma invited one of the resident ducks to be the guest of honor at dinner. We were also joined by another couple, John and Di Leo, friends of Norma and David’s. It was a terrific evening of wine, great food, and wonderful conversation. The duck was wonderful too! We slept like the dead that night, exhausted from paddling all day and full of good eats!
But then it was up bright and early to go see Edith Falls, a highly recommended sight just south of Katherine. Despite best intentions, we didn’t get out till late in the morning, and by the time we started the walk up and around the falls, it was HOT! The views of the three pools that make up the falls were great, but climbing in the heat made us more than ready for a dip in the lower plunge pool when we were done. Our recommendations here are to do the walk in the morning and take your swimmies along for a dip in the upper pool! The lower pool is great anytime, and the falls definitely live up to it’s billing as a "must see" spot.
The next day it was time to say goodbye to the Higgens’ and head further south. Our goal for the day was the thermal pools at Mataranka with stops at the Cutta Cutta Caves along the way. The caves are limestone and quite unique for the area. We love caves, especially ones with bats in them! Unfortunately, there weren’t any bats, and the caves had been disfigured by vandals in the past including Aussie soldiers who had shot the limestone formations apart for fun!! Still, it was a worthwhile stop with plenty of views like this one.
We arrived in Mataranka early in the afternoon, and, after checking into the campground, went down to the pools for a swim. The water there is warm and clear and there were swarms of fruit bats (flying foxes, to be correct) hanging in the trees all around and over the pool.
Now, these critters have a pungent and distinct odor about them. It was very strong around the pool and in the camp ground. Their chittering and squawking was constant, and, while Karen and I didn’t mind it, several of the other people around complained. It seems that we had picked a time when the flying foxes were particularly thick, but since we like them, it was a benefit as far we were concerned, although the smell was almost too much for us as well. In the morning it was time to visit the nearby Elsey Homestead (site of the classic Australian novel "We of the Never, Never", a narrative about pioneering life on a cattle station at the turn of the century), and a pit stop at the Daily Waters Pub. This is a notable watering hole along the road south that has lots of character (some of it bad). Here’s Karen swilling one down amid the bewildering array of antiques, mementoes left by previous guests (including several undergarments), historical objects, and just plain junk
Then it was back into the trusty old Troopy, slam the doors and make the long run to the Barkley Homestead Roadhouse for the night. We arrived just in time to catch yet another beautiful sunset over the Barkley Tableland!
Next, it’s on to "The Isa" and points east for the phroggy duo!