White Tie

This is the most formal of attire, typically for wedding party or debutante ball when you or your family member is one of the honorees.  Typically white tie is a black coat in tails, white tie, white vest, white tuxedo shirt, no cummerbund, black or gray pants, and black shoes and socks.  My best advice here is to coordinate this outfit with the host of the affair, who probably has some strict instruction as to correct attire.  If that is not appropriate, such as with a large party where all men are to be in white tie, then check with a formal wear provider who is dressing many of the other male guests.  He or she will know the correct uniform of the day.  Typically, most men will be doing this, since few men have cause to own white tie attire, since wearing it is a rare occasion.

Strictly Black Tie

This is very simple.

Black tuxedo coat and pants, evening, white shirt, black tie, black cummerbund, black socks, black patent leather lace up shoes.  Period.  No variations, we're all going to look like penguins.  If your invitation says strictly black tie, then it is not time to make a personal statement with your clothes, you will insult your host.

By the way, in my experience, strict black tie also means that your lady guest should wear an evening gown that touches the floor.  This may vary by local custom and occasion.

Black Tie

This allows some room for maneuvering, but don't get out of hand, here.  If you're trying to be seen as tastefully understated (never a bad decision,) then stick with the strict black tie uniform.  If you are comfortable being a bit different, then I recommend that you stick with a white tuxedo shirt, and make the variation in your tie and cummerbund.  You may also change the tuxedo to some tasteful variation, such as a western cut.  But, no morning coats to evening affairs.

Remember that your variations will be noticed and remembered, so don't repeat what you wore last year, and don't wear something that you want people to forget.

I got married in a tuxedo that I wouldn't be caught dead in today.  White tuxedo with a pink shirt, and black tie and cummerbund.  Actually, it looked really nice in 1975, but not in the beginning of 21st century.  Today, people look at my wedding photo and say, "You got married in the 70's didn't you?"

Black Tie Optional

This is often interpreted by male guests as don't wear a tux.  I disagree.

I frequently wear a strict black tie tuxedo to "optional" affairs, because it honors the host.  What he or she is saying with the option is please wear a tuxedo, but I want you to come whether you will wear it or not.  It's never wrong to be a step classier than the throng.