Peekaboo Gulch Group

Peak Info
 
Elevation-Middle Mtn:  13,100 feet Colorado Rank:  569
Elevation-Pt 13,463:  13,463 feet Colorado Rank:  277
Elevation-Pt 13312C:  13,312 feet Colorado Rank:  382
Elevation-Prize BM:  13,384 feet Colorado Rank:  328
Elevation-Red Mtn B:  13,500 feet Colorado Rank:  unranked
Mountain Range:  Sawatch USGS Map(s):  Pieplant / Independence Pass Quads
Trailhead:  end of CR 391 Trailhead Elev:   11,720 feet
Elevation Gain:  5300 ft (est) Distance:  8.5 miles (est.)
Webshot Pictures and Map with Route

Trip Report
 

A couple years ago, I had picked up running as a way to get in better shape for climbing peaks. I now seem to be using peakbagging as a way to 'cross train' for running. This was exactly what this climb today was...an off day from running but a day spent hiking/climbing and spending time at altitude. It was nice to be able to check off several thirteeners in the process. Once again, I started this climb a little late (seems like I say that on every trip report). By the time I worked my way up the 4WD road into Peekaboo Gulch and got my stuff ready, it was an 8:50am start. Sooner or later, I am going to get burned with these late starts!! At least it was a pretty high start though. I was able to drive up to basically the roads end around 11,700ft.

As with my last climb, I was able to park pretty much at the base of my first peak. The climbing began immediately as I headed east up the slopes of Middle Mtn. I had to meander a bit around some willows and a few rock bands, but it wasn't a big deal. Once I gained the rocky ridge top, I had to do some light scrambling a short distance to reach the summit just north of where I was. It was 9:40am when I summited. I only stopped long enough to snap a couple pictures before heading for my next peak, Pt 13,463.

I left Middle Mtn and followed the ridge south/southwest down to a saddle. While climbing down, I was trying to figure out which side of Pt 13,463's NE ridge I would hike. Climbing the ridge top was not an option. Two trip reports from member site Fourteenerworld described going around either side. I decided to go around climbers right (west side). This ended up being a traverse across some pretty loose talus and a few snow fields - it was kind of a pain. Looking back now I wonder if the other would have been better, although that way seemed to drop more in elevation. Oh well. Once I was around the difficult parts of the ridge, I began climbing up the north slopes and made it to the summit around 11:25am. I noticed clouds were beginning to puff up - I figured this was the climb where I was going to get burned by the late start. I decided I had time to at least try and get Pt 13,312 which looked to be a short distance to the southwest, so after a quick snack, off I went.

I headed south/southwest down Pt 13,463 and as I approached a small bump, Pt 13,090 on the map, I traversed around the left (southeast) side and headed towards the saddle west of Pt 13,312. I began working my way up the ridge and found myself doing some off & on class 3 scrambling. This slowed me down a little bit, but I still was able to reach the summit at 12:30pm. Clouds were still building some, but didn't really seemed too organized yet. After a couple minutes on the summit, I began my descent.

Instead of going back directly across the ridge, I descended Pt 13,312 west a short distance then headed north below the ridge. This kept things at class 2 and allowed me to move a little more quickly. Once I reached the saddle between Pt 13,312 and Pt 13,090, I decided the weather was holding off enough for me to make a run (not literally) for Prize BM. Once again, I traversed around Pt 13,090 - this time to the south. I reached a saddle east of Prize BM then began my climb up to the summit. It was a little rougher than expected with spots of class 3. I found myself working along the south side of the peak a little below the ridge. I was hoping to find a quick and easy way up as the clouds were building a little more. After a good bit traversing, I gave up and just began climbing up to the ridge. I even passed a cairn on the way so I guess I was actually on some route. Once I gained the ridge, I was actually really close to the summit so I made the quick scramble west to the top. I made it right at 2:00pm.

I could see there were a couple small, isolated showers around but none seemed to be drifting my way. There were no large t-storms covering the entire sky, and I never saw or heard any lighting or thunder....at least yet anyway. I had noticed from the summit that the north facing slopes of Prize BM would be good for making a hasty retreat down to Ruby, an old mining camp, if necessary. This actually began to look like a good route back anyway even though it would mean climbing back up and over Red Mountain's south ridge to get back into Peekaboo Gulch. This seemed a better option than working the class 3 ridge down Prize BM and having to climb up & over Points 13090 and Pt 13463. After about a 20 minute break on the summit, I headed down.

I headed north down a scree filled gully and was able to get down fairly quickly to the basin below. I decided to traverse as much as possible to save elevation and I worked my around the basin. I was able to maintain an elevation of about 12,000ft but as I began to ascend some, the climbing seemed to go very slowly. Fortunately, the weather was actually clearing so I didn't have to worry about getting caught. It was a slog working my way up to the top of Red Mtn's south ridge, but I was rewarded with amazing contrast of colors (red, green, etc). It's pretty obvious how this mountain got it's name.

It was now around 4:00pm and I was pretty tired. I could have just as easily headed straight down the other side and hike back to my truck which I could see a short distance away, but the summit of Red Mtn was pretty close and it was an easy looking ridge. This was an unranked peak so there really was no reason for me to climb it other than just adding a little more distance, elevation gain, and time spent at altitude, so I decided to go for it. Fortunately, it was pretty easy and I made the summit by 4:30pm. I stopped for just a couple minutes to take a couple more photos.

For my descent, I headed back down the ridge I came up. As I approached point 13060, I turned east and began a pretty nice boot ski down a loose, soft scree field. I was able to make some pretty good time down to the mines below. I followed a few sections of the old mine roads as I bee-lined it down to the main County Road 391 below. I finally reached my truck at 5:20pm. A little bit longer day than I planned, but it was definitely productive one.



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