Nestled at the end of Lackawanna Avenue in Gladstone, the Opah Grille stands like a golden gem of fresh caviar shining over Somerset County. Elegantly refined, yet modern and casual, The Opah Grille recently received an award for excellence from the Zagat Survey 2002/2003. And for good reason.

Owner Richard Sebolt has doubled the customer base since buying the restaurant last February; he loves this restaurant and his patrons, pitching in to pour wine in a booked dining room, or overseeing things in the kitchen. Richard Sebold is the very essence of friendly and unpretentious sophistication, which precisely defines his establishment. He is meticulous about details, decidedly proud of the magnificent food he serves, and frankly, one of the nicest people you’ll ever meet.

The Opah Grille is clearly distinguish for the superior quality of their cuisine for several reasons. First and foremost is that every ingredient is fresh, fresh, fresh! All of the seafood is hand line, troll or trap caught and delivered within 24 hours. The Opah Grille is environmentally conscious and prides themselves for being ecologically responsible. For example, previous owners developed a recipe using Chilean Sea Bass , a fish which, overtime overfishing, lost its quality and destabilized the local ecosystems. The Opah Grille substituted black cod, which is virtually indistinguishable from the sea bass, (both in flavor and texture), and created one of their famous signature dishes, Lacquered Black Cod. Honey, soy and ginger roasted, it’s served over coconut sticky rice and wasabi vinaigrette, and stands as true tribute to ecology sensitive culinary artistry. A hint of Chinese broccoli peaks out from under the fish, creating a stunning presentation. All ingredients are organic and thus produced without the use of exogenous chemicals.

Almost ironically, The Opah Grille is named for an endangered fish; the restaurant is decorated in honor of this rare and beautiful creature. However, ‘opah’ is also the name of an abundant reef fish, which has the texture of swordfish, yet is sweeter in taste. This reef fish is what is featured in the Honey Mustard Opah entree, using seared Hawaiian Opah over a green olive and potato hash, with julienne vegetables in a merlot sauce. This amazing and delightful dish shows how seriously the Opah Grille considers bionomics.

The Spicy Tuna Tartare, another signature appetizer, features tuna the way that God intended for tuna to be prepared. The fresh, (and uncooked) Ahi tuna is mixed with a creamy sauce, and served topped with a layer of caviar. Adorned with fanned gaurette potatoes, two sauces: a wasabi and ginger-soy, it is beautiful and rich, sweet and crunchy, light and divine. (Charlie the Tuna finally gets some respect!) The Assorted Specialty Raw Milk Cheeses & Fruit is listed as an appetizer, but owner Richard Sebold prefers it as a dessert course, served with port.

At The Opah Grille, the menu changes weekly, reflecting the availability of the finest ingredients. Both, owner Richard Sebold, and Chef Brandon Carter, constantly strive to create new and even more interesting specials. Yet, this continental style restaurant which sports an innovative flair, is no stranger to tradition.

Slightly lowering his voice, Richard Sebold confides to me, ‘I have... Dover Sole... I have it flown in from England and filleted tableside. So tender, so fresh, so delicious..’ By the glint in his eye, alone, you can almost taste it...

It makes you wonder what else he has hidden back there. Of course the bar is fully stocked, and specialty cocktails are made using the finest liqueurs. Try the Triple Chocolate Delight, made with Absolut Vanilla, Godiva Chocolate, Godiva White chocolate and Godiva Cappuccino liqueurs. The wine list is extensive, hailing produce from such wineries as Stags Leap, Freemark Abbey, Markham Reserve and Cakebread Cellars. (I must confess that I used most of my college loan money to fund wine tasting trips to California. It’s a spectacular list.)

The bread is homemade and Pastry Chef Daniel Morcombe fabricates his own fantastic desserts. Although the Opah Grille is a premier establishment, renowned for their superiority and consistency, they are also very ‘kid friendly’. They even have special high chairs for the little ones); you’ll find the cuisine is as exquisite as the staff is congenial.

On September 25th, The Opah Grille will be hosting a special wine tasting dinner, which will feature all of the wines from Stags Leap Vineyards. The first corks pop at 6:30PM; the cost is $100 per person, including tax and gratuities. This special wine tasting dinner is a sensational opportunity to participate in the marriage of fine victuals and first class wines. Come, laugh, be merry...(It’s even educational!); meet this kind and jovial owner, and have an all around wonderful time. (I sure do wish I could go.) Call now for reservations; you will need them.

Lunch is served from Monday through Thursday, 11:30 AM to 3PM, and on Fridays from 11:30 AM until 5PM. Dinner is served Monday through Thursday 5PM to 9PM, Friday 5PM till 10PM, and on Sundays, from 3PM to 8PM.A beautiful party room (decorated with a stunning fish tank ) seats up to 40 people, and on Sunday afternoons the restaurant closes to the public for larger parties.

The Opah Grille is a local icon, situated at 12 Lackawanna Avenue, in Gladstone. To reside in this area without partaking of their exceptional fare, is like living your whole life on the East Coast, yet never seeing the ocean.

Phone (908) 781-1888 for reservations, which are highly recommended. Visa/Mastercard and American Express. Do it now. Life is precious. Come and see what fresh seafood really tastes like.

Photo and editorial by Jackie Rodzinski