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Questions and answers to your e-mail questions:
Resizing designs:
Question: I used the Creative Card Station to transfer a design to my card. When I stitched the small size, the machine jammed.
Answer: A caution regarding resizing designs in the Creative Card Station - The size may be changed, but the stitch count remains the same as far as I can determine. Therefore, if you down size a dense design, you may be in for a jam. Test before using on your good project. Likewise if a design is enlarged, there may not be enough coverage. This can be helped along by switching to a heavier thread. For example, use 30 weight rather than 40 weight. (More on thread in the General tips.)
9mm designs and Maxi stitches:
Question: "Does anyone have ideas as to why the maxi stitches are not lining up?"
Answer: When you stitch Maxi Patterns, you are the director of the fabric.
To assist you, draw guidelines on the fabric about inch apart using a water-soluble pen. Then keep an eye on the movement of the foot. For a border, a center-line is also helpful. The foot should ALWAYS be parallel to the lines. Don't watch the needle - watch the lines. When the machine stitches sideways, it has a tendency to go askew. Be careful to see that there is no drag on the fabric. The wider the pattern, the more skill it takes to keep it in line.
I usually iron freezer paper to the wrong side of the fabric to give it more support. For Knits this also keeps the fabric from stretching. To remove the freezer paper when finished, dampen the paper slightly so it can be gently pull it off without distorting the stitches.
Also there is a balance adjustment on the machine. (See Sewing manual) I never had much luck with balancing stitches. After I learned to keep the fabric going in a straight line, I had less need to balance.
I like to enlarge the stitch patterns on the machine via the software to make borders. Stitching goes a lot faster and you can use a heavier thread like Sulky 30 weight, Cotty or Luny for a different look. I have also used two spools of thread at a time. Sometimes the two threads don't flow evenly and will result in some looping. Since heavier threads are now available, that is my preferred method.
Question:
When you enlarge a stitch, do you stitch them out as a hooped embroidery or as enlarged maxi stitches?
Answer: When you design stitches in the 9mm or MAXI Mode and you can send it to the machine P-Memory or the card stitch. It is stitched the same way as the built-in stitches. The 1475, 7550, and 7570 Pfaff machines have the P-Memories. The 7560 machine does not give you these choices.
If the MAXI stitch is sent to the card, it would be stored as a MAXI stitch. When you choose the Card on the machine, it will have now two choices listed:
1. Embroidery pattern and 2. MAXI. If you also do a design in the 9mm Mode and send it to the card, you will now have number 3. - Normal Pattern (9mm) when you select CARD. Numbers 2 & 3 are stitched without the embroidery hoop.
If you want to stitch the design in the embroidery hoop, you must choose the small or large frame before sending it to the machine.
(Owners of the 7560 machine may use this method and use the hoop.)
There are a lot of design possibilities when you stretch the built in stitches. You should check the stitch length to be sure it doesn't go over the limit. Select the pattern, then Tools and Stitch length and type in the length you want.
Enlarging and using built-in stitch from other models.
Question: Subject: Can you enlarge stitch #27 so you could use it for quilting?
(Note: Stitch #27 is not available on the 1475, and 7560 machines but can be brought in to either machine through the software. See Notes on Configuration.)
Answer:
To change stitch #27 to a MAXI stitch via PC-Designer software:
Select Machine Menu -- Open Stitch Program --
Type 27 in Number box -- OK
(Or click on the picture of the stitch-- OK)
Notice the Mode at the bottom of the screen. Select MAXI
The stitch should still be selected then --
Select Tools Menu -- New Pattern Size --
Erase the 9 in Width box and type 15 --
Select Proportional -- OK
Machine Menu -- Send P-Memory --
Select an empty memory -- OK
Put on the # 8 foot, If using Cotty thread use a 100 embroidery needle and top tension at 3 or more. (Depends on machine but the tension usually needs to be set at a little higher number when using heavier threads.)
Mark fabric with straight guide lines. Test the altered design. Use stabilizer or stiffen fabric or do both.
At the computer, increase the width to 30 and retest. Select the Automatic stitch and notice the little blue dots - these are stitches the program automatically adds to maxi stitches so the machine can stitch beyond 9mm sideways. You have no control over this. (This explains why the stitches are smaller when the machine stitches sideways.) Send it to the machine to test the results.
When the stitch is increased to 30mm width, the longest stitches are now 8.13mm long. You may want to shorten the length to do this: (The long stitches will be shortened, but it will have no effect on the very small sideways stitches.)
Edit -- Select all -- Tools -- Stitch Length -- type in 4 -- Press Enter
Send to a P memory. Test.
Remember- the wider you make the stitch, the harder it is to control. Test then decide which width and length looks best. Take off the proportion and try different widths and lengths.
Configuration of machine to use stitches from Pfaff Creative machines other than your model:
Question: How do you to find a built in stitch not available in your machine?
Answer: Example stitch #27 (Quilting stitch) is not available on the 1475 and 7560 machines so you have to temporarily change the configuration of the machine via your software.
In the PC-Designer Software go to the
MACHINE menu, select CONFIGURATION
Click on 7570 - OK
At the prompt - "Do you really want to change the sewing machine?"
Select - YES
You now have access to all of the stitches available on the 7570 machine
Click on MACHINE - OPEN STITCH PROGRAM or insert Stitch Program
Click on the stitch you want OR type in the number if you know it.
The stitch number will appear in the Number box.
If you want to use the stitch, Click on OK.
All the stitches for the machines are shown in the software after you configure it for that machine.
Remember when you are finished, restore your original Machine Configuration settings. (Save the stitch for future use.)
(If you wanted to bring in a stitch from the 1475 machine stitches you also need to remove the
check mark in the High Transfer rate box.) Example: Stitch #38 on the 1475 machine isn't available on the later models. It is a line stitch scallop that is nice for a suggestion of water.
Machine:
Question: OK, we can set design back 6 stitches, but can we set it forward as well?
Answer: To forward press the 0 key. The machine will move forward one stitch each time you press 0. To back-up, keep pressing the back-up key # 9, no need to press on the foot control. When you think you have backed up far enough press key # 0 and the needle will jump to the new location.
Question: How do you delete just one or two M memories?
Answer: Press m-p blue button. Select # 2 for M-Memory. Press buttons 1 to 8 to select the memory you want to erase. Press o.k. Press #7 under edit. Press key 5 under the rectangle in the rectangle. Question appears - "Deleting entire sequence? Press o.k.
By the way, there are 32 memory spaces on the 7570 machine. Press the forward blue button to get to the next screen. If you press info, there is an on-screen guide.
Creative Card problem:
Question: I tried to use my programmable card for the first time. Machine (7570) says "Card defective, ok?"
Answer: Before the Creative Card may be used the first time, it needs to be cleared and numbered before it can be used. (Machine language - card defective, ok?)
Sometimes after sending designs and deleting them on the creative card you may notice odd pictures or writing on the machine screen, or a design may stitch a section in the wrong place. This is an indication the card needs to be cleared again.
To clear the card: Hold down the Card key as you turn on the machine. Press OK to clear the card then turn off the machine. This will erase anything on the card. Repeat - except this time assign a number at the prompt. To assign a number, press on one of the number keys. It doesn't matter what number you use.
Reference:7570 manual page 95, or in the PC-Designer Upgrade ver. 2.1 pages 17 & 18.
Lost designs:
Question: How do I a take a design that I transferred to the sewing machine, back from the sewing machine to copy on to a disk? I tried 'loading card designs' and then trying to 'save as'. Nothing happens. It seems that if I transferred the design to the machine, I ought to be able to transfer it back to the computer to save it on a disk. Obviously, I cannot find it on the hard drive where the design originally came from.
Answer: If you loaded the design from the computer, it should be still there. Since you didn't get a warning the file already exists, you sent it somewhere else. If you think you stored it on your hard drive - Select Machine - LOAD CARD STITCH. When the card directory appears click on the design -- Notice that the Name: and the Size: of the pattern you select appears at the top of the directory. Select the design. Write down the name of the design - use this in a FIND Search of the hard drive.
If you want to check to see if you CAN save the design from the card - put a new floppy in the A drive. Then FILE - SAVE AS - Change the Drive to A drive. Ok the selection. This way you know where the design is and that will let you know if you can or cannot save a pattern from the machine because now you can find it. Then save it in the folder and the drive of your choice.
BMP files:
Question: How do you save a BMP file in Paint Shop Pro for the Pfaff PC Designer program:
Answer: In the Paint Shop Pro program,
Click on COLORS - Decrease Color Depth - 2 colors (1 bit)
At the DECREASE Color Depth Screen - grey values, weighted, nearest color,
Floyd-Steinberg will be selected, click on OK
To save -
FILE - SAVE AS - Type in a name
SAVE as TYPE - BMP - OS/2 or Windows Bitmap
SUB TYPE - Windows RGB encoded
In the PC Designer program -
Click on DESIGN
LOAD BMP
Digitizing:
Question: I am digitizing satin stitches. They came out nice but after they are sewn the machine stitches an outline on one side of the stitches. It did that on each part. Does anyone know why this happens and what I can do to prevent it?
Answer:
When you fill a design (A or B fill) the program always does a round trip.
When the machine stitches back to the beginning on the outside of the A-fill - Undo - then select the A-fill again and select the base stitch choice. The machine will now stitch down the middle to the furthest point then satin stitch back. The base stitch default stitch
(Stitching out to the end first) is too tight so I delete some of the stitches. Usually 3 to 1
Before you accept the fill - look to see if there is a line on the outside edge, if so choose change options and select base stitch.
Lettering:
Question: When I try to do words on the computer software. It only allows me to put one letter (file) on the screen at a time. Why?
Answer: In the PC Software when you type a letter, the letter that appears on the screen is selected. While the stitches are selected, you may change the color, move it or erase it in case your finger hit the wrong letter.
When you are happy with the letter, press the END key to UNSELECT it. (Notice the letter gets darker.) Then type the next letter. Move it if desired while it is selected. Then press the end key.
2nd question - Then the program asks if I want to save the letter and I say, Yes, it says that I already have that file and if I say no then the letter disappears from the screen.
Answer: When you bring in a letter using OPEN FILE, the program will replace the design on the screen with your next choice. The warning gives you a chance to save it before it is erased.
To add to a design, choose INSERT FILE from the file menu. This will add to the design on the screen. Move if desired, then press END key before inserting so the pattern is unseleted and that the new pattern will be added to the end of the design.
Mirroring designs:
Question: When I used PCD-win and mirrored the design to have a design for the opposite corner, the leaves on one curtain had a satin finish and on the other corner the leaves had veins. Is there anything in the program that allows you to change the stitch order so the stitches that should not be seen are stitched first instead of last?
Answer:
To mirror a design using the PC-Designer software Try the following steps:
EDIT - Select all
TOOLS - Length Mirror (This flips the design over and the first stitch becomes the last stitch.)
TOOLS - Flip Order (This returns the first stitch to the first stitch place.)
That should do it.
The problem when you length mirrored a design - the design is flipped over AND the first stitch became the last stitch. Flipping the order puts stitch one back to where it was originally, the design is still mirrored and the colors are returned to the correct order automatically.
I generally mirror the design at the machine so I only need to load one design onto the card then press the mirror key before stitching.
Stitching tips: from my PC-Designer™ software classes and the Stitch Explosion classes using the Pfaff 7570, & 7560 Creative machines. (Tips from 1999 - 2001 previously posted)
If you are unsure what section the color number is referring to, you may cycle through the individual color areas in the design by pressing machine key 8. Or for a better picture, check it out on the computer. The first part to stitch in my designs will always be the highest color on the color bar. Press the home key to go to the first stitch in any design. Double click on that color in the color bar and select Show only this Color. Then go to the next color down, etc. If you choose Show Color the next color area will be added to the one on the screen. If any color isn't used the Select only this Color isn't highlighted. Knowing this comes in handy when a malfunction occurs during stitching.
Stabilizer affects the outcome. The more dense the design - the more stable the support needs to be. I use cut-away for many of my designs. There are several weights available. If outline stitches miss the mark, chances are the stabilizer is a tear-away.
To prevent stitches from sinking into terry cloth, sweatshirts, etc., place a layer of Super Solvy on top of the fabric before stitching. The scraps may be reused in a liquid form to stabilize areas. Keep the scraps in a plastic bag until needed. Mix scraps with a little water and brush on the area then let it dry. You can tell when you have added enough - it quits dissolving. Either add a few drops of water or take out the pieces. Use this liquid Solvy to stabilize ribbons or fabric where both sides of the design may be visible. Leftover solution may be stored in the refrigerator. Label the Solvy mixture. Caution: it doesn't keep indefinitely. Best to mix as needed.
Sometimes when stitching very dense designs, the fabric in the hoop slips. To prevent slippage in the hoop, spray cut-away with a spray adhesive like KK2000. Then hoop the cut-away (the cut-away now sticks to the hoop). Spray the cut-away in the hoop again and place the fabric on top of the hoop. When my hoop gets too sticky from spray adhesive, and sticky paper, I use a mechanic's hand cleaner like Gojo. Just wipe it on, rub a little, and rinse off.
Stitch out a sample before putting any design on a garment. I stitch squares that would be suitable to use as an embroidery patch or a quilt block. If the design needs more thread coverage, change to a thicker thread. The rayon embroidery thread most readily available is 40 weight (Thinner) such as Sulky, Maderia, Alcazar, Coats, etc. Next in line is Coats Twist 35 weight which is heavier and Sulky 30 weight is heavier than Coats Twist. Notice the lower the number, the thicker the thread. Top tension setting is usually 2 or lower. If the bobbin thread pulls to the top - lower the top tension.
When the machine malfunctions:
If you move the center position of the pattern at the machine, always write down the changes before you begin to stitch so you can reposition the design should problems arise. The mind is not a good storage area for this mundane trivia.
If you are in the middle of a design when an error occurs like I was one day when the power went off, you'll be glad you wrote down the design's position. Of course, I was near the end of the design. I went back to the computer, changed the color of the stitched portion of the area, sent it back to the machine, repositioned the design, and started where I left off. (Note: Changing color areas will change the color number order. Check the order on the computer or on the machine before you start stitching. Stitch using the manual color selection key #8.)
How to correct the design after a mechanical problem > First, save the file under a new name - FIXIT.PCS. To change colors, find the lowest color on the color bar not being used, light gray and white aren't popular digitizing colors, check them out first. Then select the color of the problem area. Double click on that color in the color bar. Choose SHOW ONLY THIS COLOR, press the home key, hold down the shift key and press the right arrow until you have selected all the stitches up to a few stitches before the place the error occurred. Click on the lowest color in the color bar that is not in use. This will change the section of the area you already stitched to the last color. Now transfer FIXIT.PCS to the card. Instead of having for example, 10 color numbers in the pattern you will now have 11 (one more). No problem, just don't stitch color 11. At the machine, press key 8 to the color you want to begin, and press key 0 to move forward to the exact location of the error. Then use the key 8 method to stitch the remainder of the design. (Note of caution. If you moved the design when positioning it the first time, you must reposition the design to the exact spot.)
Removing the needle and turning off the warnings is often the recommended method to move the needle to the problem area, but this is a risky exercise. Too often another problem crops up - bobbin runs out, needle thread breaks, etc. Or worst of all, you'll forget to turn the warnings back on.
Another problem area - thread flow off thread spool is often erratic. (When this happens, it often breaks the needle and throws the pattern out of sync.) I have more problems with the thinner spools and some metallic threads. I often assist thread flow by hand to prevent jerking of thread off the end areas of the spool.
More tips next time. Happy Stitching
