Ireland Trip

Preliminaries

We decided to go to Ireland for a few reasons. One is that we have two friends in the general area. I went on a business trip there about three years ago, and made a close friendship with one of the customers. He invited us to come and see his part of Ireland. And we have a friend in England that we thought we could see again, either in Ireland or England; we split the difference and met in Wales. But besides the friends, we went there because Ireland is a good place to visit anyway. The scenery was supposed to be very nice, and there is a lot of history there. And just a week or so before we left, Claire learned that her great grandmother came from Limavady, in Northen Ireland, near Derry. So we have some roots there.

We have some overall observations about the trip, as usual. First, the weather was not so good, but we sort of expected that and planned for it. It rained many days, and the temperatures were cool compared to what we left in Columbus. It only got above 20 degrees Celsius (68 F) once! But we brought clothes for cooler weather, and so it wasn't a problem. Also, the weather was suitable for palm trees. There were palm trees in every part of Ireland that we visited. At home, there are only palm trees in the south: Florida, Texas, California; there are none in Ohio. The people there were very friendly; not only our friends, but just the everyday people that we talked to: hotel clerks, cab drivers, etc. Very friendly and helpful. There appeared to be no crime; nothing like the pickpockets and gypsies we saw in Barcelona last year. We took precautions, like hiding our things and locking our car, but it all worked out well. There were one or two beggars in Dublin, but very few compared to other places. I thought the scenery was beautiful. Lots of green out in the countryside. The stone fences and hedgerows were quaint, as were the sheep and cows. Finally, there was a lot of drinking and smoking almost everywhere we went. Alcohol is everywhere. In the United States, smoking is a big sin, and you don't see much in public. But not in Ireland. Lots of people smoke, and we had to put up with the smoke in the air. Not a big problem, but we did notice it.

We had some problems starting out. We had a normal flight from Columbus to New York. But the plane we were taking to Dublin started in Los Angeles and went through Chicago before stopping in New York. Because of storms in Chicago, our plane was 6 hours late getting into New York. And 6 hours late getting into Dublin. But we met people who had worse luck than we did, so I guess it wasn't so bad.

Dublin

We arrived in Dublin in the early afternoon, got our luggage, then went straight to the hotel. We checked in and put our luggage away, then started walking around. (The idea is to do as much as possible the first day so that we sleep a lot at night and get over the jet lag.) We walked to St. Patrick's Cathedral, and found out that it wasn't Catholic! It is Church of Ireland, which is Anglican. We looked inside, and it was quite nice. Then we went to another cathedral, Christchurch Cathedral, also Church of Ireland. We couldn't go in because of a musical presentation. Then we went to another part of downtown, looking for some shopping. We also went to the "Temple Bar" area, a place with lots of trendy restaurants. And tourists and trendy people, too. It was too crowded in the restaurants there, so we just ate at the hotel. On Monday morning, we went to Trinity College. It is the major university in Dublin, and it has an amazing library. It has the Book of Kells, an illustrated religious book from about 800. In the afternoon, we went to a place called Dublin Castle. It just barely looked like a castle, and it was a government building. We couldn't take a tour because the Prime Minister of Canada was there. But we took a tour of the police museum. In the late afternoon, we went to the "Georgian" section of Dublin; this is an area where a lot of famous people lived. Oscar Wilde had a house there. Then we went to the other side of the Liffey River and crossed the Ha'penny Bridge.

Wales and Dennis

On Tuesday, we took a ferry to Wales. The ride to Holyhead, Wales was pleasant. We did some reading and shopped at the duty free shop. The weather was good and the sea was calm. Our friend Dennis was waiting for us. We had last seen Dennis at our daughter Karen's wedding in 1990, although we kept in touch through letters and telephone calls. On Tuesday, we drove through Conwy, then went to Llandudno, a nice seaside resort. It was an old resort, with charming old hotels just across the street from the beach. We booked a hotel, and walked around the town, catching up on each other's news. On Wednesday, Dennis drove us to the church where his son was married. It was a small but beautiful country church. We then drove to Betws-y-Coed, a tourist town that we each had visited before, but that we all enjoyed. One attraction is Swallow Falls, a small but scenic waterfall. We then went to Portmerion, and enclosed tourist town. It is a small village with lots of shops selling Portmerion china. Then we drove to the seaside and saw Criccieth Castle. We went to the town where Caenarfron Castle is and found a nice hotel. The entertainment at the hotel was a Karaoke contest. Nothing like Welsh Karaoke for a good time! On Thursday morning, Dennis drove us back to Holyhead to get the ferry. We all had a nice time, and were really glad for the opportunity to get together again.

We had another pleasant trip, this time back to Ireland. We took a cab from the port to the airport where our rental car was waiting. This was a British car, steering wheel on the right, and it was a manual transmission car. Well, I struggled with it, but we got through without any serious mishaps. Part of the entertainment is me wrestling with driving! We headed north, in the direction of Belfast.

Northern Ireland and Tony

On our way north, we stopped at an area called Newgrange. It is near the Boyne River, and it has two really interesting prehistoric burial grounds. They are large circles with stones around the outside and a hillside in the middle. These places are about 5,000 years old, older than the pyramids in Egypt, and older than Stonehenge. After Newgrange, we found a bed and breakfast (or just B and B) in Drogheda. In the morning, we drove to Monasterboice, a former church site and burial ground. The original church was built in about 800 AD. There were some "high crosses" there. The "high crosses" are stone crosses about 12 feet (4 meters) tall, and have things carved in the sides. After a short visit, we drove to Belfast and our hotel.

We arrived at the hotel at about 3:30. It was a fine hotel that our friend Tony arranged for us. Tony arrived with his two sons, Kevin and John, ages about 12 and 11. Tony drove us around downtown Belfast, where we saw some of the more famous city buildings. Then we went to Carrickfergus, a large castle ruin with some interesting displays inside. We saw some more of Belfast, including a military vehicle and British soldiers in full metal jacket. We drove to Tony's house where we met his wife Carmel. On Saturday morning, Tony and John arrived to show us some of the sites of Northern Ireland. First, we headed south toward the "Mountains of Mourne", a very scenic area. We stopped at a place called Seaforde Garden; there was a butterfly exhibit, a bird exhibit, and a large maze made of hedges. We then found Dundrum, another castle ruin, near the mountains. The castle was interesting, and the mountain scenery was really nice. We then saw a small "dolmen stone", large stones put there a few thousand years ago by the native people. Next we went to a place called Mount Stewart. It was a really nice manor house that was originally owned by the Marquis of Londonderry. It was fabulous: a beautiful house, beautiful gardens, and I estimate about $100 million dollars worth of paintings, furniture, and other art works inside. After that we drove back to Belfast. We then we to dinner at a place called Clenaghan's. We were all there: Tony and his wife and sons and Claire and I. And there was Brian and his wife; I had met Brian on my business trip several years ago. Several of Tony's musician friends were there; they were members of the Irish Bluegrass Musician's Association, and they played American bluegrass for us. They were quite good. We had a fine meal in addition to the good music.

On Sunday, Tony and John picked us up again. This time we went north to the "glens of Antrim", the northwest coast of Northern Ireland. We could see Scotland through the mist. The scenery up there is really nice. Then we drove to "The Giant's Causeway", an interesting pattern of stones that look like they were cut out or made in a factory. We then had lunch at the Bushmills Inn. Bushmills whiskey is made near there; it is the oldest continuously operating distillery in the world. Then we went to Dunluce castle, a ruin quite close to the ocean.

Monday morning was our last day in Northern Ireland and with Tony. We drove to Derry (Londonderry to the Unionists); Claire and I drove in our car because we would be leaving, and he drove in his. There we met a musician friend of his, Frankie Robinson. Frankie was a real friendly character, and he showed us the big church and some other sites there. We saw lots of signs of the "troubles", almost more than in Belfast. There was graffiti, barricaded police buildings, and security cameras everywhere. After a time we said goodbye to both Tony and Frankie. Tony and his family really showed us a nice time that weekend.

When we first left Derry, we drove to Limavady. This is where Claire's great grandmother came from. It was a small town, with no really big tourist attractions. But we learned it was the place where the words to "Londonderry Air", or "Danny Boy", were first written down. After having lunch there, we drove south to the Republic and to other things we wanted to see.

The Republic and Home

We drove to Athlone, a small town in the center of the country. It took longer than we thought to drive there. The roads are small; there are few highways. And there are some things that make traffic slower. Like cattle crossings (the cars must stop while the cows cross the road) and road construction. It was a pleasant drive, but a long one. We stayed in a nice B and B. The lady there was keeping two "Chernobyl" children. They were two young boys from Belarus. Many children from there come to England or Ireland to live where there is no nuclear pollution. The lady told us that for each summer they are away from their home, they can expect to live an additional two years. We spent the night there, then went to the old monastery, Clonmacnoise. There is a ruin of an old church, along with old gravestones and some more high crosses. The crosses have old bible scenes carved into them. The scenes are there to illustrate the bible, because most people then couldn't read. The original high crosses are kept inside, but there are copies on the outside in the original positions. We then went to Kilkenny, a small town where there was supposed to be good shopping. As usual, I looked for pictures, and Claire went shopping. We found another B and B, and went to bed early. The next day, we walked around Kilkenny just a little more, then started driving to Cashel, site of another monastery ruin. We went to the Rock of Cashel, several old religious buildings with more gravestones and Celtic crosses. There was more to see here, and the surrounding countryside was very nice. After leaving here, we drove toward the west coast of Ireland.

We found another Band B near Glengarriff. This was actually near Bantry Bay, on the west coast. We only saw a little of the ocean there, but it was very nice. Especially with the sun in the west in the evening. The town was nice, and we found that the shops were open until almost 10 PM. More shopping! We left in the morning, and went to Kenmare. This was another small town with some very picturesque shops. I took some photos, but actually went in and shopped with Claire. We left after lunch, driving toward Killarney. We drove along the "ring of Kerry", a circular road with lots of really nice scenery along the coastline. There is shopping at both ends of the ring, making it a really big tourist attraction. We stayed in another B and B. We had a connection in this one. The son of the owners spent some time in Columbus, and some folks in our international program suggested we stay there. In her dining room, there was a coffee mug that said "Westerville, Ohio"! After checking in, we went into town, found a restaurant, then walked and shopped some more. Then we went to bed, preparing for our last day.

On Friday, we drove to Muckross House, near Killarney, another fine mansion owned by some English nobility. It was very beautiful, inside and out. It also had its own abbey. The abbey was just a ruin, but the buildings and gravestones were very interesting. There was a large lake on the property, and we drove to the far end of the lake. At the far end was the "Lady's View", a place where some of Queen Victoria's friends would enjoy the scenery. We drove back toward the house and the main road, and we stopped to see Torc Waterfall; this one turned out to be not so spectacular. We then drove to Limerick, which was near the Shannon Airport where we would be taking off. We tried to see Bunratty Castle, another tourist attraction, but we were too late. But we ate at Durty Nellie's restaurant, a restaurant that had been there for 300 years or so. We checked into our hotel, and started packing. This was the only "American" hotel we stayed in. It had a swimming pool and all the other nice things that typical American hotels have. We didn't use any of those things (we normally don't when we travel), but we liked the big room.

We left in the morning and drove straight to the airport and had an uneventful flight back. We got into New York, back to the horrible heat that we left. It was more than 90 F. And an uneventful flight to Columbus. Another good trip come to an end. Our only complaint was the cool and rainy weather, but we expected and were prepared for that. We saw friends, and we saw lots of other new (for us) and interesting things.