There are a couple of barrier islands just past the canal that serve as
a rookery filled with pelicans, ibis, egrets, herons, cormorants and
spoon bills. I've always wanted to get closer to them, but the depths
outside of the marked channel prevents it.
We ran the jib out for a day of motor sailing and sailing since it
was early enough that the restricted bridges wouldn't be an
issue. We debated heading to Eau Gallie by Dragon Point or
stopping earlier at
Cocoa to visit the huge hardware store to pick up a replacement fitting
for the wash down pump hose.
As we made the turn toward the south in the river there was a huge
flock of cormorants, gulls and pelicans ahead of us in the water.
A flash of tails and fins indicated dolphins were fishing there
too. As we went through, the birds flew, making a circle to
return to the good fishing spot.
We watched the clouds build into some towering cells and heard the
strong thunderstorm forecast on the VHF and decided stopping at Cocoa
made sense since it was closer. It looked threatening enough that
we
decided to wait before heading ashore to keep out eye on the weather.
By 1600 things cleared up to the west and we headed ashore for
the washdown hose fitting,
a walk, and possibly dinner at the little place we'd liked last year.
Other than a brief sprinkle before we reached Cocoa, our day had been
dry. I was surprised when I spoke with my brother that evening who
thought we'd been caught in a hail storm. He'd seen on the web
that NASA had delayed the shuttle launch after sustaining the worst
weather damage ever. We were only about 10 miles away, but had
been completely unaware that there'd been a problem. We'd missed
the news by the time we'd gotten back to the boat and the dinghy
stowed. Some days it can be hard to catch the news since we can't
hear the radio when we're motoring so we miss the morning news with our
early starts and if we run late, the
evening news is over by the time we stop.
We had a bright sunny morning as we headed for Vero Beach.
Eventually
the wind filled in and we spent much of the day with the jib out and
the
engine ticking at low RPMs. A boat from Charleston, SC, left
Cocoa about 15 minutes before us and we had their sail in view all
morning. I noticed they'd furled their jib as we approached Grant
Farm Island where the channel starts to get a bit trickier, and noticed
they had an anchor down. That area has always looked interesting
to me and last year at Staniel Key we met a couple who live on the
island, and I thought perhaps these folks were going to explore the
area. As we approached it became obvious that they had gotten to
the starboard side of the channel and the stop had been
unintentional. The anchor was a kedge and they were trying to
work back to deeper water. There was nothing we could do to help
without going aground ourselves and it looked like they had things
under control. It looked like they'd gotten free once, but they
didn't make it back to the channel.
Meanwhile we realized that the wind was giving us a continual nudge
toward the windward side of the channel and we'd need to be
careful. It doesn't take much inattention to slip out of the deep
water. Leonard would check the computer navigation program and
tell me I was running down the starboard side of the channel. It
can be helpful to look at the computer to check where you are, but I
don't necessarily trust the computer charts to be completely accurate.
The area just north of Vero Beach has some very fancy estates on the
waterway. Jones Fruit Dock which must have had their grove on the
land years ago, is just at the beginning of the fanciest ones.
We've never stopped there, the docks have been reported to be in less
than pristine condition and they no longer sell fruit although they
still offer transient dockage with 6 foot depths at the docks, power
and water. The dock house looked new this year so perhaps the
owners are still enjoying part of their past life while irritating the
new folks.
We'd called ahead to the municipal marina at Vero for a mooring and
when
we arrived we were directed to raft up with another sailboat. Our
neighbors, Loy and Linda Williams aboard Sand Piper, are from the
Chicago area and are slowly doing the great loop - 3 years into a 2
year trip. They are friendly and we have common ground with both
boating and Chicago. We've enjoyed spending time together and
sharing adventures.
They have been here for about a month while he had hand surgery to
remove a bit of imbedded fiberglass which had become infected. It
also gave them time to locate a new windlass and get it installed while
they waited. They plan on hopping over to the Abacos from Lake
Worth at the next weather window.
We have been waiting for the weather to settle a bit too. The
last couple of days have had strong southerly winds, not exactly what
we want or need. Each day the forecast gets stretched out just a
bit, but Saturday morning the winds finally switched around to the
north. Leonard talked about heading to the St. Lucie River, but was
glad we'd stayed as the front came through with a bit more vigor than
anticipated. It would have been miserable offshore and neither of
us really likes the ICW on the weekends. I'd gone to the farmer's
market at Ft. Pierce with Linda since they had a car. We had a
great view of the approaching front and were sure we'd get soaked, but
the rain passed just east of us. The wind did set the tents and
displays flying however. The record setting temperature of 91 F
yesterday has been replaced with 70's and much less humidity.
Hopefully it will also decrease the number of no see ums that emerged
last night when the wind dropped.
We plan to go out Ft. Pierce inlet down to Lake Worth and anchoring
there for the night. We've been welcomed back to the Bruce's dock
just north of Boca Raton but want to run the gambit of bridges on a
weekday which has less boating traffic. After we leave there, we
hope to hook up with the Chupacks in the Ft. Lauderdale area for a
quick visit. We're hoping to get a spot back up at Cooley's Landing in
town, but need to call back to see if they'll have an available slip.
After
we sent the last message we went exploring ashore again. It
was
much more pleasant to have the temperature and humidity drop some, even
if it meant digging out long pants again.
The Vero Beach neighborhood by the marina is a nice place to walk with
interesting houses and yards to look at. One road runs along the
lagoon and goes up to a park along route A1A. We went a bit
further north and looked at the condos on the other side of the lagoon,
most of which have slips. There was a very nice Hinckley in one of
them, so we figure those, like the homes in the neighborhood, are out
of our price range.
A public access took us to the beach and we walked back along the ocean
to another park south of the town. The air and water temperatures
were
about the same so I took my shoes off and walked in the surf, getting a
low cost pedicure minus polish.
After a detour to the frozen custard stand, we explored the area a bit
further south before reaching Riverside Park. We had taken the
camera
with us so we stopped back by the art museum to get a few shots of the
kinetic sculpture exhibit that was currently in the gardens. We'd
looked at it the day before and found them fascinating - the movements
don't have any obvious pattern, so the shapes keep
changing. Leonard
wondered if the moving parts ever collided.
Some of the kinetic sculptures
By this time we were tired of walking so instead of taking the longer
path along the river we headed behind the museum. I was surprised
to
see four sand hill cranes feeding in the park. They seemed rather
nonchalant, and the viewing was much better than when we've seen them
in Texas.
Sandhill cranes

Sandhill crane
We'd hoped to see the partial eclipse of the moon scheduled to occur
just after moonrise, but the clouds showed no sign of breaking up, so
we
headed back to the dinghy. We took a ride up though the mooring
field
and into the mangroves north of the boat before calling it a day.
When
we got back by the docks Leonard noticed that the fuel dock was
completely usurped by a motor vessel named Ed's Toy. We planned
on
taking on water and fuel before leaving in the morning, but since it
was
1830 he realized the boat was probably docked there for the night since
the only other dock space close to that size had 2 large boats on it
already. We decided to forego refueling and used the dinghy dock
to pay
our bill. Leonard was right, the "toy" would be docked there
until at
least 0800.
We said good-bye to the Williams and were underway by 0700 on Sunday.
Linda had thoughtfully printed up Chris Parker's latest Bahamas weather
report and handed it to me as we left. They had signed up for his
service via SAT phone e mail after experiencing one of those weather
report "holes" when they tried to cross to the Abacos last year.
The
report was perfect, but the weather at the Gulf Stream wasn't.
We figured a couple of early morning hours in the ICW until we reached
Ft. Pierce Inlet wouldn't be filled with weekend boaters. Other
than
bucking the current in the inlet itself, the trip was fast and
easy. We
opted to get the sails up while still in the flat water before leaving
the inlet and had a great run south. Most of the trip we were
doing 7
plus knots, pushing past 9 occasionally as we surfed down a wave.
We
would drop back to 6 knots it seemed like we were hardly moving.
It sure
beat dealing with channels and impatient weekend boaters!
We'd had dolphins with us in the ICW, but that was nothing compared to
the show we got offshore. So far this trip they've seemed more
interested in eating than entertaining. We started with a few,
but
every time I looked up, more were joining in. At times there were
6
abreast charging for the bow wake. They almost appeared to time
the
wave like surfers. Our speed must have been just right for them, most
of
then hung around for over 2 hours, swimming and jumping, giving us a
great display of their antics of graceful leaps and occasionally not so
graceful flops. Two of them remained with us until we headed
further
offshore.
As we headed back toward the Lake Worth Inlet we were joined by a bird,
I think it was a northern parula. It didn't stay long and our
pictures through the dodger isinglass were blurry. It had a
beautiful gray blue
head
and an orange-yellow breast.
Rather than backtrack north to the anchorage we've used in the past,
Leonard decided to try the anchorage just a bit south of the entrance
channel. It would save us time both days and we'd get to see
something
new. A walking path ran between the fancy houses and the water,
but
there was no obvious place to tie up a dinghy, so we just relaxed in
the
cockpit until dinner. There was a huge mast above the water at a
strange angle, so we suspected it marked a rather large sail boat that
had sunk.

The Ft Worth anchorage with a sunken sailboat
In the morning we began picking our way through the 10 bridges that
would get us to get us to Dick and Barb Bruce's dock. The bridges
were
much easier to deal with on a weekday. We did experience
something new
as we went south. The engine would change revs without any
direction
from us. Not a good sign. The revs would drop down and then
come back
up to normal for the throttle setting after a brief time. The
captain
was not amused. We half expected the engine to die causing a
anchoring
fire drill.
We were relieved to be tied up on the Bruce's dock by mid afternoon
just
as Dick finished his 25 mile bike ride. We decided to let the engine
cool down before looking for the problem. It was great to see them and
know we'd at least have transportation available if we needed to get
parts.
After visiting a couple of hours, Leonard and I went to explore the
fuel
system. With effort the first of the fuel filters was removed for
inspection. It took Dick's vise to free the filter from the
holder.
The instructions said this system is self priming with a little pump at
the top. Being in a sail boat and tight quarters, the only way to
operate the pump
was to
remove the bracket. Attempts to get the fuel to pump into the
new
filter failed, adding to the gumption trap level. By now dinner
was
ready so we packed it in for the day and enjoyed the tasty dinner Barb
had prepared.
We'd brought the West Marine catalog up to the house with us and after
dinner found to replace the entire unit would be $140. The
sticker
price encouraged Leonard to continue pursuing a fix rather than a
purchase. It was past "boater's midnight" (2100) when we got back
aboard for the night so he wisely decided to sleep on it rather than
get
caught up in repairs for the night.
We were up bright and early to get back to work. After attempting
to
get the primer pump to work using our hand oil changing pump, he
decided
it was time to take it apart. Once disassembled, the problem was
obvious - there was thick black gunk inside which impeded the fuel
flow. Once we got that cleaned up and put back together, the
primer pump worked as advertised. After purging the air from the
fuel
lines
the engine started right up and purred like it's supposed to.
By the time everything was back in place and we'd had breakfast, it was
deemed too late to leave. Instead we enjoyed a walk through the
neighborhood with Barb, looking at all the homes for sale. The
million
plus price tags put them a bit beyond budget especially since the
annual
property tax is between 1 1/2 and 2% of the purchase price and not the
number shown on the listing and the taxes rise at a 3% rate every year.
Burlington looks pretty good.
I did more provisioning when I went to the store with Barb.
Please
note that the bridge was down both times we crossed the ICW.
Leonard
and I took a short walk on the beach by their house. Public
access is
very limited, so we used the gated access for their community. I
guess
I can see why given the size of the ocean front houses. The
Bombardia
estate borders the access to the south. These are the Canadian
folks
who make everything from train cars to snow mobiles and jet skis.
We had planned to take the Bruce's out to dinner, but they already had
plans to go out with neighbors and asked us to join them. It was
quite
the night, fortunately for us low end boaters, it was casual.
However
our transportation was anything but low end. The neighbor has a
thing for Porsches, owning 4 of them. Four of us fit in the
back seat, a bit of a friendly fit, but then again it was the Porsche
version of a station wagon. On the way home he found enough room
on the road to open it up a little, and we found ourselves pressed back
in the seat. The dinner was wonderful, a little Italian place in
a shopping center and informal as advertised.
We also enjoyed meeting Dick's sister Joan, and her husband Al.
They
returned from a trip to the west coast of Florida. From the looks
of
it, the Bruces run a resort with lots of guests.

The Bruce Marina - Dick is pointing to a branch in the channel
We departed in the morning and found that the bridge times listed on
the
Florida web site weren't the scheduled times. ARGH. We had
a 20 minute
wait at one bridge, but managed to do the rest in a timely fashion,
either dawdling along at half throttle, or full bore ahead complete
with
jib for an extra boost. One tender was kind enough to hold the
bridge
as we charged through.
It was a relief to head up the New River into Ft. Lauderdale since the
bridges there open on demand and really try to accommodate you.
All
attempts to raise the dock master at Cooley's Landing Marina failed.
I'd talked to Mauareen the day before and knew we'd been assigned to
slip 30 and that it was east of the last bridge. The problem was
with
the current running getting into slip 30 was impossible. We were
lucky
that the sailor on slip 31 was on board and came to help us.
After one
try, Leonard decided to park in slip 29, on the up side of the current.
With the change of plans and the extra hand we managed an almost
graceful docking. The guy told me the bumpers on the pilings were
good
and would protect the hull, which they did.
After looking at his boat I asked him if it was a Sparkman and Stephens
design (it looked a lot like a Tartan 34 to me). It was in fact a
34,
but it had had some upgrades and modifications. When asked if he
was
headed south, he said he was planning on trucking the boat back to
Michigan. He explained he was a sailor and didn't like
motoring. Since
retiring he'd done the east coast from Maine to the Bahamas a couple of
times before deciding to sail out the St. Lawrence and over to the
Mediterranean. He'd just finished that trip with only minimal
motoring so
he felt justified in shipping it home. He was also single
handing.
Antares at Cooley's Landing Marina in
Ft. Lauderdale
the other sailboat at the dock is a
Tartan 34
Our location in the marina was a mixed blessing. It was actually
closer
to the dock house, river walk and the store, but was only a slip away
from the bridge. With metal grids on the opening portion of the
bridge, the music made by the tires while tonal, about 5 tones, had to
be described as kinetic. It was not unlike listening to a
continual
piece by Philip Glass, or the composer who uses audience participation
so that no piece is ever repeated. Brass and percussion was added
by
the bridge as it opened and closed and the passing traffic.
We were joined by the Chupacks the next morning. We'd been able
to
synchronize our schedules so they could spend some time with us before
going on a kayak camping trip at Flamingo in the Everglades with their
kayak group. We had a full day of visiting and running errands.
Jeanette was right, it was hard to forget where the van was parked
since it was the only one with 2 wooden kayaks on top. It got a
bit dicey when we drove into the garage at the Publix, the overhead bar
clearance was 8'2" and they had never had need to measure how much
clearance they needed with the kayaks. We crept both in and out,
and as we left a cyclist passing by indicated we had good clearance.
It was good to see them and catch up on the news in Florida. We
apologized for the "bridge music" which they graciously said they could
tune out, much like "listening" to your spouse.
We all took a short walk before they departed the next morning.
The
neighborhood beyond the marina was an interesting mix of housing.
It
looked to be under going gentrification. One art deco house had
been
cut in half and was blocked up like it either was going to be or had
been moved.
Building reflections in Ft. Lauderdale
After they left, Leonard and I walked into town to cash some travelers
checks and I convinced him to go far enough to locate the Italian
bakery
we'd discovered last year. Part of the store front is the actual
working bakery and the other half is the store. They do a lot of
business with really good sandwiches and treats at reasonable prices.
We stocked up with what seemed like some of everything.
We wandered off the main drag and found a park at Tarpon Bend. It
was
being serviced by the Good Humor truck and serving a number of little
kids and their moms. We also stopped at the model floor plan for
a fancy new high rise. It looked interesting, but again the
property tax issue would dictate a job to pay for it.

Mega yacht transisting the New River with a tow boats fore and aft
Tired of walking, we decided to launch the dinghy and go upstream to
see
where all the mega yachts that we've seen pass the dock go.
It was an interesting ride winding up the river. The shores are
laced with canals and filled with boats of every size and description,
many with for sale signs attached. After dodging several big
boats, we went as far as the I95 bridge where a mammoth boatyard was
located. It had a series of travel lifts, each bigger than the
last to haul yachts, and a couple of dry docks for the really big
ones. Other yards are located even further up river, but the 55'
clearance at the I95 bridge would restrict the really big ones.
We did see a large iguana on the seawall. I thought it was a
sculpture until it turned its head.

Boatyard up the New River

Mega yachts on the docks up the New River (compare size of person on
side deck)
We made one last trip to the local Publix and now the 'fridge is filled
from top to bottom. After topping off the water and fuel tanks we
are really sitting low in the water. I did learn last year that
things, while available in the Bahamas, do cost considerably more,
especially fresh fruit, veggies and meat. Maybe I'd better cross
my fingers that the 'fridge holds up or we'll have one huge feast
before we go on rations.
After dinner we took one last walk to mail a letter. If sent from
the Bahamas we may beat it back to the states. However finding a
mail box can be problematic now days. We waded through the bar
scene on Las Olas Blvd., it's spring break somewhere, and although Ft.
lauderdale may no longer be the "in" spot it once was, there was a
crowd overflowing the sidewalks. Eventually we found one in the
banking section of town. We walked back on the river walk which
while busy, wasn't a mob scene. We stopped and listened to some
of the musical performers, split a dish if ice cream and headed to the
boat.
We planned an early morning departure but were foiled by the lack of a
dock master to check us out. We also wanted to make use of the
free pump out, so while we waited, we repositioned the boat to help
make that chore easier. By the time the dock master appeared, so
had the window for slack water. Computer problems added to the
wait, he had owned a marina but wasn't computer savvy. He
also said he runs two different locations that don't happen to be
adjacent. Maybe that's how the dockage rates stay
reasonable. We should have checked out the night before while we
were doing the laundry.
By the time we reached the ICW, it was teeming with weekend warriors,
the whole gamut from mega yachts to kayaks. The bridge at Port
Everglades was opening as we approached so we slid through with the big
guys. There were at least 6 cruise ships tied up in port, and
commercial ships coming and going. Once we cleared the shoals we
ran up the sails and turned toward Miami. It's not a long sail,
so we didn't need to worry about arrival times and shut down the engine
and sailed.
We arrived at Government Cut into Miami as the local regatta fleets
were ending the day. It's a good thing this is a big ship channel
as it was crowded with dozens of one design fleets headed in along with
the usual number of sport fishers who neither wait nor slow for any
vessel. Since it was Saturday and beautiful, the jet ski fleet
was busy bouncing across all the wakes. Toss in the Fisher Island
ferries dashing across the incoming flow and you have chaos.
Government Cut, Miami, on a Saturday
afternoon
We worked our way around Fishers Island to the anchorage we used last
year and joined the fleet of vessels either anchored or running around
hoping that the scene would calm down by nightfall. With luck the
light winds forecast for Sunday will give us enough of a window to sail
to Bimini. Had we been able to leave Ft. Lauderdale early, it
would have been tempting to just cross as we left, but a wee hour
arrival in the morning didn't seem wise. While the forecast calls
for 10 knots of NE winds with an increase in the afternoon we have
hopes that the Gulf Stream will not be a maelstrom. Hopefully the
next note will be from the Bahamas.
Moated community on Fisher's Island
Lynnea