Wooden Cases for Ship Models
John O. KopfOriginally published in Seaways' Ships in Scale, Volume XII, No. 4.
The style of case, however, depends greatly on the type of model; a glass-and-chrome case looks out of place on a dockyard model; carved moldings are likewise out of place on a modern warship.
I build 17th and 18th century ships, and a wood-framed case complements these models. This is how I build cases for these models; other people have other preferred techniques.
A case consists of a quadrangular framework containing a number of panels, either solid or glazed. The framework consists of an upper and lower rectangular frame, separated by posts.
Glazing may be either glass or sheet plastic; I prefer to use plastic (acrylic sheet, such as Plexiglas® or Lucite®). Glass is heavy and brittle, but is easily cleaned; Plexiglas is much lighter and more shatter-resistant (a significant factor here in earthquake-prone California) and can be cut to size on a table-saw, but is more readily scratched and tends to attract dust.
Likewise, the dimensions of the posts and frame should be in proportion to the model's size - 1/2 inch stock is appropriate for the smallest models (perhaps even 1/4 inch for tiny models); 2 inches may look too flimsy for an extremely large model. For illustration, I'm going to discuss building a case from (readily available) 3/4 inch lumber, appropriate to a model two to three feet long. You may want to increase the stock thickness for a larger model, or reduce it for a smaller one. I will identify dimensions specific to this size lumber by using "[ ]" (e.g., [3/4 inch]).
I'll assume that the saw blade cuts a 1/8 inch wide kerf - you should check this on your saw and be prepared to make adjustments as appropriate. The width of the kerf is critical, since that forms the groove that the glazing material you choose will have to fit into (assuming you're using 1/8-inch thick plastic or glass). Get a small piece of your intended glazing material and make sure that it will fit into your saw's kerf. If it doesn't, you'll either have to go to thinner material, or a wider saw blade.
Hint: if the kerf is only slightly too narrow, a piece of masking tape applied to the saw's fence will shift the work on a second pass through the saw; perhaps enough to widen the slot to the required width.
The first thing to construct is the baseboard. From the wood of your choice,
form a flat plank 2 inches wider than the model, and 21/2 inches longer.
Create a "tongue" around the edge, 1/8 inch thick and wide, 1/8 inch from
the bottom of the base.
Record the dimensions - Width and Length (you'll need this later for the glazing). Decide how you want to mount the model to the baseboard, and temporarily install the mounting system.
I prefer a simple mounting system consisting of two rods that connect holes drilled in the keel and the base; these are surrounded by two "spacers" (tubing) that slip over the rod and support the model's weight. To install these, I first determine where the holes are to go in the keel; a scrap of wood ( the "jig") is then drilled with a pair of holes of the correct diameter and the chosen distance apart. The first hole is drilled in the keel, and the jig is temporarily attached with one of the rods through one of its holes. The jig's second hole is then used to drill the second hole in the keel. The jig is removed, the model is positioned on the baseboard, and one of the hole-positions is transferred to the baseboard's center-line and drilled. The jig is again used to locate the second hole in the baseboard. The use of the jig guarantees that the holes in the keel will line up with those in the baseboard.
You can choose to makes the frames of square [3/4 inch] stock, or can put a
molding on one edge. A simple molding is a half-round with "steps"
(D). If you choose this style, make the frame stock 11/2 times as
wide as it is thick [11/8 inch wide].
For the frames, you'll need 4 pieces for the sides, and 4 for the ends. Each piece will be at least the length of the corresponding side of the baseboard plus twice the width (and it wouldn't hurt to start with an extra 1/2 inch or so, in case the ends get bashed). You'll find it is easier to machine the stock if you work with 4 bars of wood, each containing one side and one end piece.
If you choose to have the routed edge, use a [3/8 inch] roundover bit in your
router and machine the half-round profile on one edge of each bar. (Leave the
router set at this setting; you'll want it again for the feet.)
Run post stock (A) through the saw forming the first groove (B).
Flip it end-for-end and give it a quarter turn, and remove the second groove
(C), resulting in a cross-section as shown in D.
Run frame stock (A) through the saw forming the first groove.
As for the posts, remove the second groove (B), resulting in a
cross-section as shown in C.
For the top frame, take half of your frame stock (A) and remove the
part shown (B), resulting in a rabbet (C).
Next, cut the frame pieces to length, and miter the corners. You should now have two each of bottom side, bottom end, top side, and top end. The length of each piece should be the corresponding dimension (side or end) of the top of the baseboard plus twice the width of the frame...the shorter side of each (trapezoidal) frame piece should be the same as that dimension on the baseboard.
Just to test, dry assemble the bottom frame around the baseboard. The tongue on the baseboard should fit into the groove in the frame, and the miters should all meet without a large gap between the frame and baseboard (If there is a gap between the frame pieces, you've cut them too short!) If there is a gap between the frame and base, shorten the frames (bottom and top) accordingly.
Before final assembly of the frames, there's one more step. Remove a
triangular chip from each end of each frame piece, as shown.
This should be the depth of the groove, and 1/8 inch outboard of the inner
miter corner.
When you put two miters together, you should end up with a square
mortise as deep as the groove, and with a 1/8 inch "border" [1/2 inch
square, 3/16 inch deep]. You could wait until after the miters are glued,
but it's just easier to do this before assembly; there's less risk of the
glued miter joints coming apart.
Glue the frames (I find it convenient to first glue up two "L"-shaped pieces, each consisting of a side and an end; later joining these L's). Remember that the bottom frame "captures" the baseboard (but avoid gluing the frame to the baseboard - you want the baseboard to "float" within the frame).
On the top frame, I carve an indentation at the center of the rabbet at each end piece; that allows me to grab the top glazing once it's in place.
Take the posts, and form a rabbet completely around each end, forming a tenon. The rabbet should be 1/8 inch deep (i.e., just grazing the edge of the groove), and as wide as the groove is deep [1/8 inch deep, 3/16 inch wide]. These tenons should fit into the mortises in the frames, and the grooves in the post should align with those in the frame.
Drill a wood-screw clearance hole in the bottom of each mortise and out the other side. You want to position the hole to insure that the screw won't break into the grooves, and yet leave enough space (in the top frame) so that the screw head doesn't overhang the rabbet. Assemble the frames and posts (a couple of scraps of the glazing material are handy here; put one in each groove-corner to align the frame with the post). From the outside, drill back through this hole and into the post with a pilot drill. Finally, countersink the outside of the holes in the top frame so that the wood screw head will be flush with the surface.
 A case for the American S-Class Submarine (1:350), from Blue Water Navy. The frame "sticks" are 5/16" square. The dime is shown for scale. |
Models of modern ships may look OK in such a case (see photo above).
However, a case for an 18th century model looks best when it's mounted on feet. Putting feet on a case has the added advantage that the case may be set onto an uneven surface, without rocking.
I have, in the past, used simple drawer knobs as feet (the kind with a screw already fixed to the knob), but I've concluded that I don't really like that. Instead, I make a set of bracket feet; these look contemporary with 17th-18th century models.
You have to decide on the size of feet you'll need; for illustration I'll use stock that's [3/4 inch by 11/4 inch by 21/2 inches]. You'll need 8 pieces; again, it's easier to machine a single [24 inch] length of stock.
Using the same round-over bit as you used for the frames, remove one
corner of the stock ( A ). Switch to a [1/2 inch] core-box bit, and
remove a semi-circular groove (B), leaving a 1/8 inch flat at the
bottom of the side. Using a hand plane, knock off the remaining corner
(C) to produce the resulting form (D) and sand it smooth.
Saw the stock into [21/2 inch] lengths, and miter one end of each (remember
that you'll need 4 "left-hand" pieces and 4 "right-hand"). Mark the locations
for a [3/8 inch] hole in each piece, [1/2 inch] up from the bottom, and [11/4
inch] away from the point of the miter (A). Make a template for the
curve, mark the pieces, and saw off the excess wood (B). (The result
is supposed to resemble a two-lobed leaf.) Now glue the pieces
together at the miters to form four bracket feet.
 Successive steps in forming bracket feet. From left: the molded bar, the end mitered, the hole drilled, the leaf formed, left and right bar joined, the screw hole drilled (from the top), and the view from the bottom showing the enlarged hole to recess the screw-head. |
Sand and finish all of the wood (if you use stain, make sure that you also stain the insides of the grooves).
Glue felt pads to the bottom of the feet; when the glue has dried, trim the felt to the edge of the wood (remember to open up the screw hole as well).
Repeat at each bottom corner. (Brass screws are a good choice here - they'reless likely to corrode.)
Now install the glazing material. You'll need one piece Width by Length (I told you to record those dimensions), two pieces Width by Height, and two pieces Length by Height. If you are using plastic sheet, fold back the protective paper for an inch around each edge. Slide the two end pieces (WxH) down the grooves in the post and on into the groove in the bottom frame.
Depending on your chosen method of mounting the model, you may want to mount it now, before installing the front and back.
Slide the two side pieces (LxH) into the case, just as you did for the ends.
Apply the top frame - it's grooves should line up and capture the glazing. Finish by screwing the top to the posts, using flat head screws.
Finally, drop the to glazing material (WxL) into the rabbet in the top.
I've seen cases made with a mirror back - I don't recommend this for a rigged model; all of the reflected rigging will drive viewers up the wall, trying to determine which is real and which is a reflection!