for one more day of ice climbing! Even though the ice conditions in the Catskills were horrible
in January and February (of '06), they were hit with about 7-10 days of very cold conditions (not
getting above freezing for 5 straight days). The forecast was calling for the temperatures to rise
to about 50 (and the rains will roll in) starting in about two days..
We ended up having a great day - the conditions were surprising good, we did a really cool long climb
(Buttermilk Falls) and then a steep climb at Moore's Bridge. I hadn't climbed at either location before
so that was another plus. I met Ryan at the New Paltz Park 'N Ride around 8:15, and soon we were on
our way to the Catskills.
The first photo shows Ryan and one of the middle amphitheaters, while the second one shows Kerry
on one of the rappels down Buttermilk Falls. The next picture shows Rich Romano (famous for
putting up a TON of first ascents at Millbrook in the Gunks) starting on one of the lower/smaller
pitches. The 4th picture was taken looking from the third pitch to some of the upper pitches. You
cannot see the last several pitches in this shot.
Buttermilk Falls has a reputation as being a great all day adventure (and the conditions there were
outstanding that day). It's about a 45 minute to 1 hour hike to the start of the climbs. It's a steep
hike down to Katterskill creek, then you cross the frozen creek, followed by some up and down hiking
until you eventually reach the stream and the first pitches.
The above pictures show Rich climbing a very steep column at the final pitch. The first photo shows
Rich moving up, and the next picture was taken from the other side and shows the true nature of the column.
There are two short pitches, followed by five additional larger pitches - with gorgeous/picturesque
scenery between each pitch. Buttermilk Falls is in a ravine that keeps pinching in as you go higher
and higher. Also, at several pitches there are amphitheaters, so there is also a lot of ice to climb
and there are lots and lots of choices.
There were actually three sets of climbers there, and there was plenty of room for everyone (and
we passed another couple as we were rapping down).
The very top pitch is really cool, but it was the only pitch that was extremely wet and running
with water. Hence we didn't do the last pitch. Ironically, most of the ice was very hard and brittle.
(It hadn't gotten above freezing for 5 days, and the Buttermilk Falls ravine does not get much sun
at all). At the penultimate pitch (i.e., next to last) we did the variation over to the right. This
was a cool, and very stiff climb. The lower part was thin and tricky and the upper part took quite a
bit of technique. Anyway, it was impressive lead and an excellent pitch. The colloquial name for that
pitch is supposedly "Middle Aged Men on Ibuprofen".
Buttermilk Falls was a GREAT DAY OF climbing. Really, really nice. After we got back to the car, we
decided head down to Moore's Bridge. We did a really neat (albeit very hard and steep) variation in
a left facing corner. This was another really nice climb. There was also a fellow there (another guide, Mike
Rawdon) that was working on an extremely hard mixed route project, so we hung out and gave him a belay
while he was working on it.
This last picture shows Mike working on a mixed route at Moore's bridge. He had just about gotten
to the point where he could swing out to the right on get onto the hanging icicle.
Back to Coffman Home Page
Back to Coffman 2006 page
Ice Climbing 2006
Ice Climbing 2005