Right And Left Elevator Construction:

Again, I can't say enough about the importance of reviewing the plans and instruction

manual. The Left and Right Elevators also use internal stiffeners much like the Rudder

with the exception that the skin is bent around forming a smooth continuous shape.

Stiffeners are being made, Scotch Brighted and fitted. The counterbalance arms are

being Clecoed together after Scotch Brighting all parts. We decided to build

both the Left and Right Elevators at one time because of the high degree of commonality

in the parts. The only difference, other than one being right and one being left, is that

the Left Elevator supports the trim tab and the associated electric servo mechanism.

We are match drilling the Left and Right Elevators here. Because the trailing

edge only contains holes on one side of the skin, additional alignment is necessary.

I wanted to be sure, so I used two matched wooden levels under the work and drilled

directly into the rear level, providing perfect chord to edge alignment. If your table

is not perfectly flat, the trailing edge might not work out as expected. It cost a little more

money using this approach, but I can sure sleep better at night. The Clecos fit right into

the drilled holes, and I should be able to use the wooden levels for something else later.

Ahhhhh, we found another use for the wooden Pro Levels. When countersinking it is

easy to develop "chatter" after a certain depth is reached, especially when you are

double countersinking. It worked nicely to Cleco the trailing edge pieces to the

already drilled level edge.

We are now joining, aligning and drilling the Left and Right elevator horns to the

Right and Left elevator spars, which will eventually be connected to the control

stick in the cockpit. The important thing here is to maintain a good centerline.

Again, we were able to use our C-Frame Table for the back riveting of the internal

stiffeners for the Right and Left Elevator skins. It is helpful to find something to hold

the skin open while the riveting is being performed.

We like to refer to this one as the valley of stiffeners.

Upper management seen here inspecting our riveting work. 

The outboard stiffener for the Left Elevator is a doubler plate forming an access

hatch, which will be used to mount the electric trim servo mechanism.

Next, the Elevator skeletons were completed. I found that it was easier to

reach the counterbalance skin to elevator skin join better by assembling the

counterbalance skin to the Elevator skin before installing the skeleton.

A rivet squeezing tool with a four-inch long yoke helped us to rivet both the top

and bottom sides of the spar to the Elevator skin. This can be accomplished at the

horn and both horizontal stabilizer attachment points.

Using two levels at the spar and trailing edge positions and a piece of wood

holding the assembly flat, we set the trailing edge rivets using a hand squeezing

tool. Once all rivets were set, we then double flush riveted the trailing edges

using an angled set to complete the job. We found that it works best if you set every

other rivet and make two passes. We were quite happy at how straight the trailing

edges turned out.

After 101.5 hours of pure fun and pleasure, we completed the Left and Right Elevators

by installing the rod end bearings, as the attach points, installing the counterweights

to balance the Elevators and fitting and riveting the fiberglass tips into place.

Vivian especially liked the Left Elevator and wanted to be photographed holding it.

The trim tab photos will be posted, once the next roll of film is ready for developing.