The Leadville/Fremont Pass/Climax area is approximately 50 miles west of the intersection of I-70 with CO 470, on the western side of Denver, on the eastern slope of the Front Range. To explore the Leadville/Fremont Pass/Climax area, get off I-70, before the westbound climb up Vail Pass begins, west of Frisco, at Copper Mountain(a major ski area).
Leadville, "The Cloud City," is located at over 11,000 feet above sea level. Its track team usually wins the Colorado High School Championship, from what I've learned. It is also home to the highest public airport in the US, again, at over 11,000 feet. Leadville was founded as a mining camp in a spot that is now known as California Gulch. At one time, Leadville was considered as the state capitol. It is one of the first cities in Colorado to have electricity. Leadville, and the areas surrounding it, have extensive deposits of Silver, Gold, and lead, to name several economically important minerals. Initially, all supplies were carried in either on backs, or with pack animals. Railroads eventually came to town, to haul the ores out, and supplies, and people in. The first railroad to town was the narrow gauge Rio Grande, then the standard gauge Colorado Midland, and the Denver, South Park & Pacific(or Colorado & Southern).
There were several routes into the Leadville area. Today, the most used, and best maintained route, is over Fremont Pass. In addition, there are several other passes from the east, which can also lead you to Leadville. For the extremists, I recommend Mosquito Pass(not responsible for death, dismemberment, or damage to your vehicle. Don't try this one in an RV. Stock SUV's won't do here, either.) at over 13,000 feet. Oh, beware of NO TRESPASSING signs, as you may receive some 'lead poisoning,' then be asked what you are doing on somebody else's property. There is also Weston, or Wess Pass, which is somewhat less severe than Mosquito Pass, but more difficult than the paved Fremont Pass. The road to Weston Pass in Leadville is diguised as "7th Street." You may also get to Leadville, on a paved highway, by coming up the Arkansas River valley from Buena Vista (this is the way the Rio Grande and Colorado Midland railroads got here).
If you wish to 'Go West Young Man,' from Leadville, you have several routes. A rather scenic, and fully paved, route is west over Tennessee Pass. From Tennessee Pass, the road follows the Eagle River, towards Dotsero, where it joins the Colorado River. This is also the way the Rio Grande(most successful railroad to serve Leadville) went. Such 'pretty little towns,' as Red Cliff, and Minturn are found along the way. Vail is also not far off this route. In addition, in the winter, there is a ski area adjacent to Tennessee Pass. During World War II, the larger valley at Pando, was the original home of the US Army's 10th Mountain Division, at Camp Hale. Nothing remains of Camp Hale today, except a few foundations. Not enough adventure for you, eah? Got a modified SUV? Why not give Hagerman Pass a try?
Hagerman Pass, was named after a Mr. James John Hagerman, who was the original president of the Colorado Midland Railroad. The Colorado Midland was organized in the late 1870's to bring the mineral riches of Aspen, and Leadville, out of the mountains. Hagerman Pass is located on the Continental Divide, at over 11,000 feet. To get to Hagerman Pass, head towards Tennessee Pass, then take the road that leads to Turquoise Lake. The Midland, bored the first tunnel, and standard gauge at that, under the Continental Divide here, at an elevation of about 11,500 feet. To reach that elevation, a number of loops, with snow sheds, and large trestles were constructed in this mountainous area. Eventually, a lower, longer tunnel was built, to improve train operations, and cut expenses. This newer, Busk-Ivanhoe Tunnel, was built however by a seperate company, to which the Midland paid rent, to run its trains through the tunnel. At one point, the two companies were locked in a dispute, and the Midland stopped using the lower tunnel, in favor of restoring and reopening 'The High Line,' for train operations. Bad move. For 77 days in early 1899, the railroad was closed due to heavy and drifting snows. All the time, they were paying large forces of men, on both sides of the pass, to get the trains moving again. The Midland, inspite of its innovative application of standard gauge through the Rockies, was never a money maker, declaring bankruptcy a number of times. It was finally liquidated after 1918. Both the High Line tunnel, and Busk-Ivanhoe(later called the Carlton Tunnel) are closed, and the 'road' actually goes over the top of the pass, approximating the mule trail, used to construct the railroad. Back to Fremont Pass.
Fremont Pass is a bit northeast of Leadville. The Arkansas River has its headwaters here. At the top of Fremont Pass, is the rather large(and, might I say impressive) Climax Molybnedum mine. Molybnedum, or Molyb, to material scientists, metalurgists, and others, is a metalic lubricant, used in the steel making process. If you pull over at the top of the pass(there is a sign when you get there), you can stop and stare at the mountain that is being blown away as part of the mining process. If you drove up the pass from Copper Mt., you saw the rather large 'leaching pond' and tailings that the mine is cleaning up, and processing. Beware of NO TRESPASSING! The leaching ponds now cover the areas of 3 small mining towns, formerly in the area. The area is known as 'The Valley of the Ghosts," I believe. As you look at the mountain, and man's efforts to remove it, beware that the Climax mining operations began about 1916, and have operated on, and off, ever since. It will be a few more years before the mountain is obliterated. Get your pictures while you can!!
A few notes about things to do in Leadville:
Visit the National Mining Museum, and Mining Hall of Fame. Great for kids, and interesting for adults too. No, I don't know any of the Hall of Fame inductees, but there are a lot of interesting exhibits, about mines, and mining, from all over. There is a nominal admission fee charged, PLUS, a gift shop!
Leadville Museum-Down the street from the National Mining Hall of Fame. I was short on time, so didn't get a chance to stop, but easy to find, at the head of Leadville's main drag.
Tabor Opera House- Built by a Mr. Tabor, who played a prominent role in Leadville, and Colorado's history. Mr. Tabor struck it rich with his Matchless Mine, in California Gulch. Eventually, he divorced his first wife, and married(I believe) a much younger woman, an actress known as Baby Doe. Eventually, Tabor when bankrupt, however managed to hold on to the Matchless Mine, where, Baby Doe, was found frozen to death in the early years of the 20th Century. As I recall, Tabor's last words to Baby Doe were either 'hold on to the Matchless,' or 'Don't sell the Matchless,' believing that there was still much high grade ore to be hauled out of the mine.
Leadville, Colorado & Southern Railroad-Operates seasonally from Leadville, to near the top of Fremont Pass, on the original right of way of the Denver, South Park, and Pacific, later known as the Colorado & Southern.
Mineral Belt Loop Bike/Ski Trail-A 12 mile loop, closed to motor vehicles, which circles Leadville, and takes you into the mining area, where you can see several active, and historical mining operations. In the Summer, its a bike trail. In the Winter, is a cross country skiing trail.
Learn more about Leadville, and the surrounding areas at:
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1. View of mountains to the east of Leadville.
2. View of the main commercial section of downtown Leadville.
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3 & 4. Views of downtown Leadville. The building on the right side of photo 3, is the Delaware Hotel.
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5. Side street in downtown Leadville.
6. Another view of Leadville's downtown.
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7. An interesting building, on the corner, in downtown Leadville. Across the street from this building is the Delaware Hotel.
8. View of the Tabor Opera House, downtown Leadville. Horace Tabor erected this building with money made from the mining business. Tabor's second wife, Baby Doe, was a former actress.
Freemont Pass/Climax 1.
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1. View of Fremont Pass, and the Climax Mine, north of Leadville, near the headwaters of the Arkansas River.
2. Road sign at the summit of Fremont Pass. Note that the elevation here is over 11,000 feet, above sea level. A "Pass" is a 'low' spot in the mountains, that Native Americans, European explorers and settlers used to move from one area to another. Often, at the summit of a pass, there will be higher ground, or the summit of one or more mountains, on either side. In this view, you can see that there is not a mountain summit, nearby on this side of Fremont Pass. Behind the photographer, is the Climax Mine.
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3. View of the Climax Mine, at the top of Fremont Pass. The mine has been digging into the mountain since early in the 20th Century. It will be a good many years before the mountain is totally gone.
4. Looking towards the Climax Mine, from near the headwaters of the Arkansas River.
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5. View of the Climax Mine, in the background, and myself in the foreground, at the top of Fremont Pass.
6. As you drive up Fremont Pass from Copper Mt. Ski Area, & I-70, you see the rather large tailings ponds, off to the right, from the Climax Mines. This picture was taken from the tailing ponds overlook. NOTE TO CRAZIES: Do not attempt to climb down to the tailing ponds! There are NO TRESPASSING signs mounted near by. The tailings ponds constitute part of the active Climax Mine complex.
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7. Tableu mounted at the Climax tailing ponds overlook, describing the 3 small mining communities, now located beneath the tailings pond.
References:
High Line to Leadville, Doris b. Osterwald, Second Printing, 1995, Western Guideways, Ltd., PO Box 150532, Lakewood, CO 80215. 303-237-0583
Colorado Midland Railway, Daylight Through The Divide, Dan Abbott, 1989, Sundance Publications Limited, 2590 Broadway, Denver, Colorado 80203.
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Updated 7/20/2004
(c) Copyright, J. Carl Shaw, 2004. All Rights Reserved. Photos may be used by giving photographer credit.