The trolling motor is off set to one side so the propeller will not hit the rudder should it kick up.

The mounting is attached to the rudder head low enough so the propeller is about 6 to 8 inches under the water line with the trolling motor all the way down.

The trolling motor is far enough aft of the rudder to allow the rudder to be turned full left and full right without the trolling motor hitting anything.

To find the best position for the trolling motor and thus the shape of the 'Modder" mount, I clamped a 2 X 4 to the rudder and used "C" clamps to hold it in place. I could move the 2 X 4 up and down to find out where the mount has to be to allow the propeller to go deep enough in the water. I could then move the trolling motor back or forward on the 2 X 4 to fine the best place for the motor to attach to the mounting.

If the trolling motor was placed too close to the rudder, the control handle would hit the transom. If it was too far back the control head would hit the outboard motor. Fortunately there was a spot that was just right, the control head would miss the outboard and the control handle didn't hit the transom. If my trolling motor had a longer shaft things would have been much easier.

Since the trolling motor mount can tilt and it is mounted sideways, the motor can be tilted to allow for more clearance if needed.

Based on my measurements and testing for clearance, I came up with this design for the "Modder" mount. Two 3/4" pieces of plywood with a 1/2" piece in between.

At this point I could have just clamped the mounting to the rudder head in the correct place and drilled two holes through the mounting and rudder head, and used stainless steel carriage bolts with wing nuts to hold it all together.

I didn't want to drill anymore holes in my rudder head so I came up with a clamping arrangement to hold the "Modder" mount on the rudder head.

Though this works just fine, save your self some time and just drill two holes. If it doesn't work out you can always plug them up.

Here is the finished "Modder" mounting painted with One-Step Dark Walnut polyeurethane.

Here is the "Modder" mount on the rudder with the trolling motor attached.

I plan to use a small lawn tractor battery placed under the cockpit seat to power the "Modder". The trolling motor says it will run 5 hours on a 105 Amp Hour battery. Since I only will use it to get in and out of the marina, I think it will be more than enough for my use. If I need to motor back in because the wind dies or I need more power, I can just use the outboard gas engine. If the gas engine dies, a frequent happening, I have a backup!

I hope this will keep me from hitting the dock so hard, it is hard to control the locked in forward out board motor. What I need is a little finesse and less raw power!

I may add a switch into the power cord so I can turn the trolling motor Off and On remotely.

Here is a wiring diagram for the switch.

The switch is a double pole, double throw, center Off switch that is able to handle the current. Flip it one way and you go forward, flip it the other way you go in reverse. Center the switch and it's Off.

Jim Hall