Our trip started out at LAX on June 18th, we flew to Washington DC, then to Frankfurt and on to Moscow where we  hooked up with Svetlana, who was our private  guide, we stayed at her flat near the Russian equivalent to our white house. We later learned that Svetlana is the daughter of the general of the air force during Stalin's reign. She lived and grew up with all the government families and were good friends to Stalin's and many of the ruling party at that time.  She was with Bonnie and I from Moscow to Saratov and back. We toured Moscow for eight days, saw a ballet the first night, third night the circus. We did all the sights and it was interesting but my sights were set on  the trip south. By the eighth day I was ready for bigger and better things, I was tired of the Metro, Kremlin, Monuments and Museums.

The eighth evening  Svetlana and we  boarded the train to Saratov which is the capitol of Saratov Oblast. We  stayed in Saratov for 5 days visiting a cousin of mine who returned from Kazakstan in 1983 and is now working at the German Consulate in Saratov. My cousin and his lovely wife met us at the train station, after the hugs and kisses and many tears they took us to the Volga Hotel on German street. The first evening, we were invited to attend a party cruise on the Volga by the Consulate General of the German Republic in Saratov. This party lasted 4 hours and was a going away party for a lady that has worked at the Consulate for many years and was being transferred to Finland. It was a gala event, many food items, drinks and a band. Both Bonnie and I were treated as we have never been treated before, everyone wanted to meet Victor's uncle from America, ( I'm actually his cousin, but who argues). We met everyone of any importance in Saratov, director of the  TV station there, director of  the Archives of Engles, professors of the university and all the staff of the Consulate and many more. We just had a plain old good time.

The next day we visited the archives in Engles where after meeting with the lovely Mrs. Elisabeth Yerina, the director. We discussed her needs, which was a computer, printer and copy machine, I promised I would ask for donations on the GR List to obtain those items, I did buy the computer later and am getting a few donations as I write this. She let me video the historical books and documents in the storage area's and view the original Manifesto that was sent to Saratov for the use by both the Immigrants and Saratov government. This was very dear to me and she showed me the census book for my village and I found my Great Great Grandfathers family as it was recorded in 1834. The feeling I had cannot be put into words, I almost wet my pants. We had dinner at my cousins house and I might add his wife Anna prepared a French dinner that was outstanding. She teaches German at the university, she is a Russian girl but learned German when the Consulate sent Victor to Germany for two years training for his job at the Consulate, attended the university there and took German classes, she is a doll, of course the children are super too.

We also visited many locations of interest in Saratov, such as markets, the Schmidt mill, memorials and of course we walked German street many times every day, this is their shopping mall, where everyone gets dressed up and meets with friends to chat and meet new ones. It is several blocks long and is closed to vehicles and open to foot traffic only. Many sidewalk shops on both sides, mostly eating establishments. My cousin's two daughters and son would grab my hands and they really liked showing off their uncle from America, of course I kind of liked it too as I am the only relative they have ever met, it was a real treat for me as well as them.

The next day we visited the Saratov archives, this was more of a rigid visit, the director was home sick and her assistant sat in and he was of the old school, he let me look at books but no photos except of him at his boss's desk. The amount of books and documents were enormous, I have no idea how they can keep track of it all.

The following day was the highlight of our trip, we went to Yagodnaya Polyana. We drove north on the old Moscow road, a two lane road in pretty good shape, it took us about an hour when we saw the sign pointing to YP, we stopped and Victor and I picked some flowers to put on his mothers grave. We proceeded northeast on a paved road for about 7 miles or so when we came over a hill and saw a valley so beautiful I was amazed at the sight. We stopped at the cemetery, picked some wild strawberries, visited the graves of six Germans that were marked, paid our respects, cleaned Victors mothers grave, very emotional for both Victor and I. I videoed the location and got an English translation of the markings, there is a Alex Befus, A P Baum, George Scheuermann, Hein rich and Lidia Stuckert (Victors aunt and uncle), Catherine Weitz, Johannes Will and of course Maria Stuckert (Victors mother), his father died in Kazakstan.

We stopped by the old hospital and it was under renovation to be a rest home for the elderly, not much to see as we could not go inside. We then proceeded down the road and dropped down into the valley and entered YP. First is the old German school house on the right, now a store of mostly food stuffs. We stopped and bought some items to get a taste of YP and proceeded down the road, we passed the church on our right, no longer a church, the steeple has long since been removed and was converted to a community center back in early Stalin days. 

From there we drove about a block and a half as the road turned to dirt and the ruts were so deep our car got hung up, we all got out and Andreas, our driver was able to get it free and back up to the blacktop area. There we found an old bench and decided to have our lunch. Before we left Saratov, we stopped by a German bakery and purchased several tins of reval kucha, (bread covered with fruit and sprinkled with a sweet flour, egg and sugar mix, it's very good, you should try it sometime), pastries galore and a couple loaves of bread. After our fuel replenishment endeavor we drove left on the main drag that the church was on past the last house. We stopped and Victor got out like he was shot out, I went over to him and he threw his arms around me, he is much shorter than I and his head was on my chest and I detected wetness on my shirt, of course I started also and when we composed ourselves I questioned what got him so emotional, he pointed to the last house on the left and said with his voice very broken, that's my house. I calmed him down as best I could, we looked at the map I had and he informed me the map had errors in it. I was told my house did not exist any more as it was  blown up in the 40's to provide firewood, after seeing all the trees I did not believe this was necessary to obtain firewood. I remembered my father telling me there was a small spring about a block away and he had a map someone had drawn and I remembered where the spring was supposed to be. I told Victor to walk with me down the street that I knew it should be near , we hit a dead-end with a lot of tall weeds and grass when a lady came up the street and Victor asked her if there was a spring nearby, she pointed to a tree just about 30 feet into the weeds. We started to walk though them when she yelled to come down the street a bit when we found a trail. Let me tell you, when I saw the spring, Victor had to calm me down this time, it took 10 minuets before I could proceed as I knew that was my house also, it was exactly where I pictured it from stories I had heard and when we found the error on the map it put my house right on top of Victors. I get so strung out when I think about it as I never in my wildest dreams thought I would see it not alone enter it as we did about a half hour later.

My dear Svetlana was really cool, Victor had previously told us not to mention to anyone who we were and never mention our last names. Apparently a direct descendant of the owner of a house as of 1941 when all Germans were deported to Siberia and Kazakstan could reclaim the house, of course he also mentioned if one did he would be dead in three days and his body would never be found. So when the man of the house got curious as to why we were looking at his property he and Svetlana conversed. She told him we were American Germans and were there to photograph and hear some stories, that we were writing a book on the German history and Heritage in Russia. He was so pleased we picked his house he invited us into his yard. His wife came out about 15 minutes later and told us she would have been out sooner but she has sugar diabetes and had to take a shot. Svetlana told her I had a similar problem, that my sugar level gets too low and I have to input something frequently. She came over and reached up with both hands to my face and pulled me down and planted a big kiss, lips to lips, (so I can now say I kissed a Russian women), then she shook her finger and said I was too young to have that problem and I should take care of myself. I thanked her for her concern and then the big moment came. I cannot tell you my feeling when she invited us in, it was the highlight of my life. I saw and touched the bed my Grandparents and I'm sure many before them slept in and most likely my dad was born on. I sat on a chair in the kitchen and at a table,  that were both there when my dad lived there. I could only wish that everyone doing their family history could do that and have the high that I had and still exists now, two weeks later. After taking a few photo's, so as not to tip them off, we went to the cellar, the chicken coop, barns, and back yard where there were apple trees and the large garden full of potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage and many other veggies. It was just so lush and green and full of life. Dad told me he never wanted to leave and when he got to America at the age of 15 he wanted to go back, I now understand why, what a serene and quiet place it is. The Russian man told us he had no idea why the Germans left there, he said he arrived along with the other Russian's to occupy the land on 31 Sep 1941 just 3 days after the Germans left, he said they were uprooted and brought here by the army never to be told why and he mentioned the name Stuckert three times during his conversation with us, each time, Victor and I had to turn and recompose ourselves. He also said the house itself was about 200 years old, he could not remember the exact year he was told but seemed like it was  very late in1790 by the Stuckert family. When I notice the bed I said it was very German, she said they have kept it like they found it, you are right, Victor had to face the wall again. The old man said the bed frame itself must be at least 150 years old, the table was also very old but did not know how old.

From there we drove around a bit and stopped at the church and then walked north on the main road and came upon Chardyn Creek, we crossed it to search for the Wilhelm mill, my grandfather's mill on my mothers side. We trampled thru tall grass and then came upon a little thatched roof house, as I could tell, this was the only inhabitant on that side of the creek and a man was there, we talked to him and then told him we were looking for the mill and he said he came there in 1938 and remembered the mill, however it was not in operation as were all the rest except the Pfaffenroth mill in the center of the village. He took us to where it was but nothing was left, he did say that all the stones were used by the towns people for various things and he had some himself. He showed me 3 of them, I had to touch one and photograph it as it was the only thing to connect me to my mother, I had the feeling she was there also. He walked back with us talking all the way, he mentioned the different German families he knew and both of my names came out as well as many more.

By this time it was getting late and as we drove southwest out of the village I asked the driver to stop, I got out and had to take my last look at it, I stood there thinking just what those people that left there no matter where they were going must have felt like, I'm sure it was the same thing I felt, I don't want to leave but I have to. I got back into the car and I was very quiet all the way back to Saratov.

The next day we were to leave that evening so we kicked back, visited a few people we had met to say our goodbyes, walk German street  and  experience the German-Russian way of life just one more time. We boarded the train around five that evening, the emotions ran very high, the hugs, kisses and we did not say goodbye nor did Victor and his family, we knew that this was going to be on our list to visit as often as we can. All I can say is that I found a wonderful family there and I don't ever want to lose them again.

We arrived in Moscow the next morning and went to Svetlana's flat, after some food we went on sightseeing trips around the city and her granddaughter was our guide. That evening we went to the Cinderella Ballet, it was fantastic. The next day we toured the war memorial. that evening Svetlana's son drove us around Moscow so we could see it at night and the old saying of seeing it at night is something you will enjoy was true.

We boarded the train to St. Petersburg at midnight, said our goodbyes to Svetlana and her son. We arrived there at eight in the morning. We were greeted by our guide that Svetlana had hired for us and whisked to the five star hotel we were to stay at for the next couple of days, it was not a five star except the lobby. The room, one had to stop immediately upon entering it or you would hit the far wall. Two beds about 5 feet in length with a wood box around it.  Then we loaded into the car they rented, wow such a small car but I was able to fold myself in half and still be able to see. We proceeded to Kotlin Island, which is a Naval base and has only been open the last year or so. After driving thru Kronstadt we stopped at the location  the German immigrants disembarked from the ship they came to Russia on, it would have been his first experience of stepping on Russian soil. From there we went back to St. Petersburg and visited some historical sites. One was the church Catherine the Great is buried in. I photographed her crypt where she is buried, again I experience a feeling that I am unable to put into words. My mother and father spoke of her often for what she did for the Germans there, they had her very high on their all time hero list, second was Nicholas II.. He and his family, staff, doctor and everyone at his house was killed by Lenin on July 17, 1918 and buried in the woods only to be found about 10 years ago. The remains were recovered and buried 2-3 years ago and work is now being done to prepare for them to be entombed  in the St. Basil's Cathedral. From there we drove to Oranienbaum, and to Peterhoff,  the home of one of Catherine the Greats many summer palace's, called The Great Palace. Here she had a canal built from the Gulf of Finland to her back,  maybe it was the front door, hard to tell the front from the back door. The immigrants were put into small boats and taken to this canal where Catherine would welcome them and from the looks at the garden by the canal she would feed them and records show she talked to them in German, this was very enlightening for them to hear her speak in their tongue. I stood at the very place she did 233 years ago, that feeling  came over me again. We walked the gardens and spent about three hours there, in its day it must have been one beautiful place. We left there after about three hours and went to the hotel, dinner, well if that is what you want to call it, then to bed, remember those beds I talked about?. Let me tell you, I'm 6-2 and was in constant pain because my legs overhung so much all night long and laid on the wood part..

The next morning breakfast, lucky they had rolls, Danish and croissants otherwise we would have nothing to eat, I cannot eat uncooked bacon and the eggs. We then folded ourselves into that car again and headed south on the old Moscow highway, two hours later we arrived at Novgorod where my immigrant family most likely stayed the winter of 1766. There stands a  large Kremlin on the Volkhov River, and again a very beautiful place, we toured it as well as the town. This town is the oldest recorded settlement in all of Russia, it existed before Moscow and St. Petersburg did, at least that was what I was told .We headed back to St. Petersburg and arrived late so we hit the restaurant, had dinner and off to our toy beds. The next morning we slept in late as we were due to leave at 1400 for Frankfurt. Got to the airport and had to go on standby for the trip, no big deal we made it anyway but missed our connection in Frankfurt so we checked into the Sheraton right on the airport property. Finally a very good meal and a wonderful bed. Wow, we were in heaven.

The next morning was layback again because the first flight out to anywhere in the US was not until 1300, your right, did not make the list but at 1400 one was leaving for Chicago and we made it.  We struggled with the good food, ice in our drinks and a comfortable seat to rest our tired bodies. Nine hours later we were in Chicago with a 4 hour layover. Four hours later the smell of Orange County hit us. Got home at 0100, kissed our ice maker, our shower, our bed and by 0200 we were in bed but up at 0400, the jet lag really hit us big time, it's been 5 days now and I still have it.

End of Trip       

But not the end of story,  it was such a joy to visit a family member such as Victor and his Family, I wish he lived here, we definitely would visit often. We, or I will be back soon and often. I would be back there in a month or so but we have a couple more trips to make this year, maybe next year after the Stuttgart trip or in conjunction with it.

                                                                                          Bonnie and Kenny Stugart

On 28 Aug 1941 all Germans in Yagodnaya Polyana were deported to Siberia and Kazakstan as Stalin had this fear that if the German army got to the Volga settlements the Germans there would collaborate with them. The Germans lost everything when they were deported, land, livestock, homes, furnishings, they were able to take only what they could carry. They were put into work camps with very little to eat and very skimpy clothing, tens of thousands died in those camps. My cousin told me that he and another cousin were the only known Stuckert families to survive the Stalin years. I have found out since this is not true.