Permission: None required, no patents etc. – go for it!

Warning: Check the rules for YOUR Klondike Derby, this sled may not qualify.

Features: Takes apart for compact storage when not in use. Good cargo capacity. Easy to pull or push - especially in deep snow. Cheap to make. Base is approx 18" wide x 48" long. Base-to-side uses 3 hinges. Front and rear panels have 1 hinge each at bottom, and one hinge each side at top. Total hinge count = 12. Sled is sized for an older scout or adult, in terms of push-bar height.

See end of this page for detailed instructions

	Overview of assembled sled
	One side panel removed, wooden handle removed and lying on the base, along with pliers used to pull out the brass hinge pins
	Front panel removed
	Rear panel removed
	Far side panel removed
	View of underside showing skis.
	Showing part of push bar (dowel), custom made bras hinge pins, and pliers for removing and installing pins. Original hinge pins removed and replaced with pins cut from brass rod and bent as shown. Ends of pins beveled with file or grinding wheel for ease of insertion.
	Fastening of chain to front of sled, two short chains go to a common carabiner
	Side view of Simpson post base used to connect ski to plywood base panel
	Another view of Simpson post base used to connect ski to plywood base panel, note how ski base is located slightly inboard so that the mounting bolt (coach-bolt) clears the hinge. This view also shows the self-tapping screws used to mount the skis to the Simpson post-base.

Pattern showing how two sides are cut from one rectangle

Materials Required:

• 1/2" thick Plywood (one sheet 4'x8'), 5/8" plywood would also be OK (it may be easier to get the sled reassembled in subsequent years with more flexible plywood)
• 12 pair of 2" galvanized butt hinges with removable pins
• 3/32" brass rod (36" long)
• 3/16" nuts and bolts with plain washers
• four Simpson post (model DPT7) or equal (3-1/2" tall, 1-1/2" wide steel strip, 3-3/4" seat), these each use two large bolts (one each flange)
• a 1" diam. x 24" long (trim to suit) wooden dowel for handle
• 8 each 3/8" x 2" long coach bolts with nuts and washers (for the Simpson post bases)
• chain and fastenings to suit tow system, carabiner (optional)
• two self-drilling screws (keepers for dowel)
• 2 small pieces rubber (2.5"x16") to glue on tops of rear of skis (for the musher to stand on)
• small amount of epoxy glue for the rubber
• 1 pair skis (74" used in model shown here).

Tools Required:

Sabre saw, circular (skill) saw (optional but preferred) or hand saw, drill & bits to suit, crescent wrench, pliers, screwdriver (to suit bolts/screws used), file, hacksaw, sander, painting gear

Skill Level:

intermediate, low with adult supervision

Detailed Dimensions:

Base: 17-7/8 x 48
Front Panel: 7 x 16-7/8
Rear Panel: 16-7/8 x 32
Side Panel (2 req’d): cut from one piece of 48 x 45-7/8, curved edges are cut so that opposite panels nest (i.e., one complex cuts gives you both side panels). See pattern above. Bottom edge is 48" long, rear edge is 37-3/4" tall, front edge is 8" tall, top edge is curvy (tangent is 33" away from bottom rear corner), the curvy bits are approximately 9" radius.

Dowel (push bar) – locate 1-1/4 in from rear, 3" below top edge of side

CONSTRUCTION:

READ ALL OF THIS BEFORE STARTING

Brass Rod: Knock pin out of one hinge, cut brass rod into 13 equal lengths (i.e., 12 + a spare), bend one end into a loop, test fit in hinge, repeat 12 times.

Plywood: mark out and cut all panels. Make straight cuts (skill saw), then the curved cuts (sabre saw). Drill side panels for the wooden dowel, use spade bit with spurs teeth, cut part way from both sides to make clean hole.

Assembly: Use the original hinge pins, space hinges at least 2.5" (see photos) from nearest face that would block pulling the pins out, note that pins have heads on them, and will only come out in one direction. Install hinge screws/bolts with head inside, nut outside, one side to upper surface of base (outside edges flush) and install hinges (three hinges, spaced) with two screws per each hinge tab. Install rear panel (back), with one hinge to base (centered) and one hinge to side panel (install near the top), install other side panel (same as first side), then install front panel (one hinge each of three edges). After satisfying yourself that everything fits, install any remaining hinge screws, if required. If in doubt, test assemble all panels by standing them on the base panel, before installing any hinges.

Runners (skis): locate post-bases on skis so that center of ski is 15"" from rear of the plywood base, and that centers of the post-bases are 7-1/8" (front set) and 25" (rear set) from the front of the plywood base respectively.

You could adjust the fore-aft location if you need to by putting a sitting scout inside the assembled sled body and balancing the whole thing on the wooden dowel. The point at which reasonable balance is achieved should be over the center of the skis. The "Center" of the skis should have a mark embossed in the side of the ski (possibly a triangle). Screw metal bases to skis with mounting screws. Drill smallest pilot hole that will work. Use mounting screws from old ski bindings if at all possible, they have the most appropriate thread shapes (short and fat, with aggressive threads). Alternatively, use countersunk head machine screws installed from the bottom surface of the skis, countersink ski running faces to suit.

Locate runners (skis) beneath base and mark position of post-bases. Turn sled over locate center of skis at least 1-7/8" in from edge of plywood base, then bolt the post bases to the plywood base using the 3/8" coach bolts

Push-bar: Install the wooden dowel with 1" protruding either side (trim to length), install a self tapping screw either end to retain dowel in place.

Install a towing system of your choice.

For Questions Send an Email to the Author

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