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Tying the RS2 Fly
Below are detailed instructions on tying the RS2 fly with comments from
Rim Chung. Suggestions on materials to use follow.
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Tie first tail in on your side of the shank. The length of the tail
should equal the length of the shank. Two turns of the thread will secure tail in
place. With smaller flies the tails should be tied on sooner (i.e. closer to the eye of the
hook) to make sure that they're adequately secured. |
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Tie second tail in on the far side of the shank. Wrap thread around
both tails all the way to the bend of the hook. Another turn must be made under the
two tails (between the tails and the shank of the hook). Finally two more turns are
needed just to the right of the exposed tails (see picture). Cement at the point of
the final two turns. (The last step is done to increase the durability of the fly.)
There must be a 60 to 70 degree separation between the two tails. This can be
achieved by pressing a finger nail against the thread between the two tails. |
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When applying dubbing to the thread use long fibers (this helps avoid a
lumpy body). Make fibers line up with the thread. Closer to the hook the
dubbing should be tapered thin to achieve a tapered fly body. The top (tapered)
portion of the dubbing should be twisted clock-wise around the thread, then with a single
turn secured to the shank. Once the dubbing is pinched between the shank and the
thread, the remaining dubbing must be twisted counter clock-wise onto the thread as
tightly as possible. The dubbing should not come loose since the first turn secured
it to the shank. While keeping the twisted dubbing tight wrap under the tails one
more time. |
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As you wrap dubbing (without overlapping) toward the thorax portion of the
fly, the body should be tapered. It should be slightly thicker near the thorax.
The tightly twisted dubbing will create a body that has a segmented look to it and
it also makes the fly more durable. |
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Tie in the wing. Rim uses the web of saddle hackle feathers for the
wing. |
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Trim the feathers closer to the eye of the hook. |
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Create a well pronounced thorax by wrapping dubbing in front of and behind
the wing. The thorax can be made to look smoother by twisting the dubbing less
tightly around the thread. Additional turns of the thread (without dubbing) will
make the thorax more durable. Tie off thread near the eye of the hook. |
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Cut the wing by pinching and lifting the feathers straight up and
inserting the scissors approaching from the tail end of the fly at an angle. |
Materials used for tying RS2 flies
Hook: Tiemco 101 (straight-eye) hooks.
Tail: Dark dun colored microfibett.
Thread: Unithread 6/0 for hook sizes 14 or larger; Unithread 8/0 for
smaller hooks.
Dubbing: Natural beaver fur. Longer fibers preferred. (Note: Rim
uses no dubbing wax. Instead, he uses a bit of saliva while applying the dubbing.)
Wing: Web of saddle hackle feathers in dark dun color (the fluff at the base
of the stem of a saddle hackle).
RS2 Variations
| RS2 Color |
Body thread color |
Body dubbing color |
Wing color |
Thorax thread color |
Thorax dubbing color |
| Black |
Black |
Black |
Dark dun |
Same as body |
Same as body |
| Gray (light, medium, dark) |
Match dubbing color |
Light, medium, dark gray |
Dark dun |
Same as body |
Same as body |
| Tan |
Tan |
Tan |
Dark dun |
Same as body |
Same as body |
| Brown |
Camel or dark brown |
Brown |
Dark dun |
Same as body |
Same as body |
| Cream |
Light cahill or yellow |
Cream |
Dark dun |
Same as body |
Same as body |
| Green (hook size 20 or smaller) |
Green |
Green |
Dark dun |
Same as body |
Same as body |
| Green or olive bicolor |
Green or olive |
Green or olive |
Dark dun |
Close to black |
Close to black |
| Tan and brown bicolor |
Tan |
Tan |
Dark dun |
Camel or brown |
Camel or brown |
The above color combinations have been known to work well. Other
color combinations may also do well in your area. When tying bicolor flies, tie off
thread after you secured the wing. The size and color of the flies
vary from season to season as well as geographic region.
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