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2) This latching mechanism prevents the hood from flying up while the vehicle is in motion if the main release mechanism fails, or isn’t properly closed. With the hood released, feel under its front edge for a handle to release the latch. Simply press this handle upward and the hood should easily be raised. 3) Some hoods have spring mechanisms to hold them open. These will simply stay up once raised. However, many have a rod located at the front or to one side that’s used to keep them propped open. If necessary, pop the rod out of its holding clip and look for the mating hole on the under side of the hood. Some hoods also have a rod that is attached to the hood itself. Similarly, pop the end of that one into the mating hole on the frame of the vehicle.
If the Dipstick says "full", that’s fine, but if it says "add oil," either put some in yourself or make a quick trip to the service station. Adding Oil yourself - There is a large cap at the top of the engine block that unscrews or easily lifts off. These days oil comes in a bottle that has a funnel-like end, making adding oil a lot neater process than it used to be. Add a small amount of oil at a time, frequently checking the level on the Dipstick. After some experience, you will learn that a certain distance on the dipstick translates to a certain amount of oil. Consult your owner’s manual for information on the proper type of oil for your car and weather conditions. Do not forget to put the oil filler cap back on, unless you want an unbelievable mess under the hood and the possible self-destruction of the engine.
Some filters are not round at all, but are rectangular and contained in a housing near the air intake. These usually can be opened by undoing a couple of snap-type fasteners.
If you can’t see the fluid level, you’ll have to remove a cap which may be held on with a retaining spring. The spring can be popped off with a screw driver. Make sure the area around the cap is clean before opening it. Wipe away any dirt or dust with a paper towel. It’s very important not to let any dirt or foreign matter get into the reservoir since this might interfere with the operation of the brakes. Remove the cover and the rubber diaphragm that sits beneath it. The brake fluid should be within a half inch of the top in both chambers, or up to the fill line if there is one. Use ONLY the EXACT type of brake fluid that is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle. Look in your owner’s manual or contact the dealer. Purchase the smallest amount possible and discard the rest. Do not store it for use at a much later date since it will evaporate and gather moisture from the air making it unsafe to use. Carefully, and with cleanliness, replace the rubber diaphragm and cover. It may be necessary to push the diaphragm to its uppermost position with your finger before you can get the cover back on. Adding brake fluid once in a great while doesn’t indicate a particular problem, however finding that you must do so often indicates a leak someplace. Have that situation checked immediately.
Wear eye protection. Unscrew the six small caps or pry off the bars with a screwdriver. Peer inside. The fluid should cover the plates. Most batteries have a fill indicator inside each cell that shows the correct level. Use distilled water to fill the cells. The holes to fill a battery are pretty small and it’s easy to make a mess unless you have something that allows dispensing a small amount of water at a time. Best is a battery filler - inexpensive and available at auto parts stores, but a small tin can that has been squeezed to make a narrow opening works pretty well, too. Do not smoke or otherwise have an open flame near a battery. Batteries generate hydrogen and can explode. Do not get any of the battery fluid on you or your clothes. It’s sulfuric acid and will burn your skin and your clothing, giving you a rather Les Miserables-like appearance. If you do get exposed to it, flush the area with a lot of water immediately. If you have a sealed battery, there is no need, or possibility, of adding fluid. Many of these batteries have charge indicators that give an estimate of their condition, however. There’s a little window at the top of the battery and you may need to wipe it off to see it. Dark with a green dot in the center of the window means the battery is fully charged. If there is no dot, the battery needs charging and there could be something wrong with the electrical system. A yellow dot or clear window means that the battery is not accepting a charge and should be replaced. Batteries fail in mysterious ways; sometimes they seem fine one minute and might not even turn over the starter in the next.
Some vehicles are checked with the transmission in park, others require it to be in neutral. The rule of thumb is that GM, Ford, front-wheel drive Chryslers and nearly all imported cars are checked in park, older rear-wheel drive Chryslers are checked in neutral. Again, check the owner’s manual or with a dealer if you aren’t sure. Pull the Dipstick out and wipe it with a clean paper towel. Reinsert it and check the level several times until the readings seem consistent. The fluid is moving around and has a tendency to splash a bit giving changes in readings. If the level is low, fluid is added using a small funnel down the dipstick tube itself. It’s very important to use the correct fluid for your particular vehicle and that information is likely both stamped on the Dipstick itself and printed in the owner’s manual. The fluid should be a nice red or pink color, not brown or smell burnt.
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