Ship's Log 2000 "DNA"
01/01 Miami Beach FL (25.47.40N 80.08.55N) - Nothing to do but enjoy the area and wait for a good weather window. It's a little ruff because of all the holiday boaters.
Update 01/06 - I believe we have reached a state of perfect balance on the boat. The AM/FM radio started working again. Now the outboard motor on the dinghy won't start. I took it apart and cleaned the fuel pump, carburetor, and fuel lines. They weren't that dirty. When we put it back together, it started right up, then quit. It acts like it wants to start, so I hope only needs an adjustment. We'll play with it over the next couple of days. We may start looking around for a used 5HP.
The weather looks like it may be next week before there will be another window to cross the gulf stream. I hope we can find a phone to update the log before we leave.
Update 01/08 - Well I got the outboard motor running. Then the cable that turns off DNA's main engine, by stopping the fuel, snapped. We replaced it with a long string, until we can get a new one. The string works so it won't delay our departure.
Update 01/10 (25.47.13N 80.10.17N) - The weather forecast looked good for another crossing. We returned to the anchorage next to Government Cut. Along with two other boats, we raised anchor at 2AM and headed out. By the time we reached the ocean we were joined by two other sailboats. What we found was 6ft waves and 20mph winds on the nose. We all returned to the anchorage.
Update 01/11 - I tried again to update the ship's loge. I could not get the computer and payphone to work together. I know you can't read this till I do, I just wanted you to know I am trying.
This is the friendliest anchorage we have found in a while. We've had several boats dinghy by just to say hi and share information. It looks like we may be here several days before we can try another crossing. We've decided to relax and enjoy Miami.
Update 01/20 - Still anchored off the Miami Yacht Club waiting for a weather window. It's not bad here. For $5 a day you can use the club's facilities. The club is also letting us get a mail run.
The holding could be better. When the last front came through, the wind was blowing 35 to 40 MPH and we started to drag. While Andi drove, we had to pull up anchor, reposition DNA, reset the anchor, and let out another 50ft of chain. We also put out a second anchor as backup.
Update 01/21 - I want to tell you something that happened I found very disturbing. About a 40ft derelict in the anchorage started dragging its anchor in the strong winds. It drifted down on a sailboat. The sailboat's crew was on the bow of their boat, holding the side of the derelict boat off with boat hooks. About 10 or 15 other boaters came to help with their dinghies and tried to push the wreck back or swing the rear around to clear the sailboat. At this point the Coast Guard showed up in a 22ft patrol boat. They did NOTHING to help. They did call for assistance and said they were going get a line on the wreck and try to hold it off till help arrived. They STILL did NOTHING! A few minutes later, another C.G. boat came up with an officer on board. THEY STILL DID NOTHING! While the two C.G. boats circled, the boaters in their dinghies were able to raise the wreck's anchor and swing it clear of the sailboat's bow. Once it was clear, they dropped its anchor. At this point a TowBoatUS showed up. It turned out the wreck belonged to them. It was a salvage boat they were leaving in the anchorage till they could get rid if it. At this point the story goes from sad to stupid. The C.G. told TowBoatUS they had to do something, because the anchorage was so crowded. They suggested anchoring the wreck both front and rear. Now picture this, the wreck had drug its bow anchor and was now sitting in the middle of the fleet of pleasure boats. Another storm was coming that evening. After talking with the C.G., the TowBoatUS operator came over to the wreck, dropped another anchor off the rear and said they would try and return next week and remove it. At this point everyone except the six C.G. and one TowBoatUS operator went ballistic. Shortly after that the TowBoatUS left the anchorage with the wreck in tow and the Coast Guard was sent back to their base to get an accident report form that the sailboat insisted be filled out. It's sad when two icons of boater support put on such a display of indifference and stupidity.
Update 01/22 - There is a small two day window which should allow us to get across the gulf. We went to the store one last time and stared getting DNA ready for sea. Pulled up one of the anchors, removed sail cover and made ready to sail, toped of fuel tank, rigged a Jack Line ( a line that runs to the front of DNA) to hook a safety harness too if we had to go forward,...
01/23 Bahama Banks (25.37.10N 78.24.40W) - Pulled anchor and left Miami at midnight. The two boats, we were going with, were running late and said they would follow. About 20 boats got underway that night and I believe most went in different directions. About 15 miles out, we were alone. Our two companions were about an hour behind and their mast head lights were just in sight. Sometime during the night we lost sight of them and couldn't raise them by radio. We never heard from them after that.
Andi did ok till we were almost to the Bahama Banks. She fell asleep and woke up sick. The ocean was running about 2+ft and choppy. We reached the banks about 8:45AM at North Rock (25.48.06N 79.15.48W). The water and Andi's condition settled down. Because the wind was almost on the nose, we continued to motor till dark. We dropped anchor about 5:20PM to get some rest and wait for another boat we had met in Miami. If they kept to their schedule, they would be in the area later that evening.
01/24 Bahama Banks (25.37.10N 78.24.40W) - At around midnight Andi heard the other boat on the radio and woke me. When we raised them on the radio we found they had passed us during the night and were about an hour ahead. We also found out that the small weather window was closing. We decided to pull anchor and continue on in the dark. It is not recommended to run the Banks at night. There was almost a full moon and we felt the risk was justified. Little did we know that the Banks was the least of our problems.
We reached North West Channel around 4AM. This is the east side of the Banks. On the Banks the water is seven to 20 ft deep. Once through the West Channel, it's over 150ft. At the edge of the banks it's almost like there's a rock wall just under water with a small opening through the rocks (North West Channel). You can see why I was not a happy camper when we couldn't locate the channel buoy in the dark. We were trying to use the night binoculars, but the water was getting ruff and we were bouncing to bad. When the GPS said we had past the mark, and we were still in shallow water, I was afraid we could go on the rocks. While Andi was on the radio with two other boats, who was trying to help, I headed DNA west, back on the Banks and away from the rocks.
At this point, I saw the large cruiser heading in our direction. When he went past, I turned DNA to follow, as best we could, and opened the throttle all the way. Between his wake and the waves, DNA's bow was going under the water. One wave came over the dodged and I was soaked. Andi was just inside the cabin trying to contact the cruiser and request he slowdown so we could follow. One of the boats requested we shine the spot light so they could see where we were. When she shined it toward the cruiser, they turned on their stern flood lights and came to a stop. I didn't. At least not until Andi spotted their dinghy, with our spotlight, right in front of us. I turned to avoid a collision and powered DNA back to idle. The first thing I realized was how comb the water was. I quickly looked at the depth gauge, it was showing almost 300 ft. We were through. Andi relayed that information to the other boats and the cruiser continued on his way. Andi took the wheel an followed the cruiser while I went below to setup the GPS and get our heading for Nassau.
I believe this was one case where high-tech hurt us. Because of the full moon and past experience I couldn't understand why we couldn't find the North West Channel buoy. Because of the waves the radar was also no help. After we were through, one of the other boats said they had no trouble locating the buoy's reflective tape with there spotlight. That should have been our first choice. That was a mistake, I hope we have a spare for later.
We were almost fifty miles from Nassau and looking at a ten hour run. Today is Jan 31 and I am still having trouble finding the words to describe the trip. The weather was supposed to be wind-15mph, waves two to four ft. The reality was wind-35 to 40 with gust up to 60, waves 5 to 10ft from the right front and side. The rain so hard the radar was virtually useless. DNA was pitching and healed over so bad that the fuel pickup in the tank couldn't stay in the diesel. We had to siphon fuel into the tank from the Jerry jugs because we ran out of fuel twice. The last time was five miles from Nassau. A wave snapped the tie down on a full 6gal Jerry jug of fuel and washed it over the side. The heavy rubber bushings, that supports the mast where it comes through the deck, came out. The handheld radio, I had in the cockpit with us, hasn't worked since. Andi was sick for most of the trip and I felt I was going to join her on several occasions.
The last three or four hours we spent below. I would climb up every 10 minutes to take a look around. While things were bad, I remember thinking about another boat that we herd on the radio. They were behind us and taking on water through the deck seams. They said everything was wet and there was standing water in the cabin. They changing course and heading for Chub Cay. With the exception of me and Andi, everything in DNA was dry.
We reached Nassau at 2PM and planned to anchor out in the harbor. After a vote, we sprung for the expense of a marina and hot shower. We went into Nassau Yacht Haven and got DNA into a slip. I don't think it was the one they wanted us in, but it was the one the wind selected as our only choice. When we came in, Andi was on the bow and through a line to a boater who had come to help. He threw one end back to her saying "You may want to tie this to the boat". It wasn't pretty, but 15 minutes and 4 dock lines later, DNA was secure.
01/26 Nassau Yacht Haven Marina (25.04.34N 77.19.08W) - We had decided to spend two days at the marina. The showers are nice and hot. We cleared customs and immigrations, did a load of laundry, took on fuel, and generally put DNA back together. We spent over $20 at the pay phone trying to get and send E-mail with no luck. This morning we started to leave but the engine ran hot after about ten minutes. We had to shut it down and tell the marine we were staying another day to locate the problem. It turned out to be in the fresh water cooling system. A hose, that supplies water to heat the hot water tank, had rubbed a whole where it goes through the engine room wall. We decided we could keep water in the system long enough to leave the marina and reach the anchorage half a mile away. You may ask the question: Why didn't it run hot on the way here?. I believe in "The Force" and "saying thanks" every now and then can't hurt. Andi says it's just luck. I believe it happens to often to be "just luck".
01/31 Nassau Harbor (25.04.41N 77.19.43W) - We have replaced the leaking water hose. Andi has made her pilgrimage to the casino and came home $35 richer. We continue to make repairs to DNA and perform general maintenance while relaxing in the anchorage. We will try to find an internet cafe tomorrow to update the web page and exchange E-mail.
02/13 Nassau Harbor (25.04.42N 77.19.38W) - I am beginning to get paranoid about our ground tackle. The holding is not that good here, but we have never had a problem before. After several tries, We got both anchors to hold. After a week, they were completely buried in the sand. A front came through and the wind was pretty high for a day or two. When it got started good, the bow anchor (a small Bruce) started dragging. After three tries to reset it I gave up. With Andi maneuvering away from the other boats, we pulled up the stern anchor (a larger CRQ). We moved back to our original position and tried twice to get it to hold, with no luck. After pulling up seven anchors and about 900 ft of chain, night closing in, and the wind getting higher, we gave up. We headed for an area of deeper water and fewer boats. Both anchors held on the first try. We found out later that the Bruce had snagged a large cable that crosses the harbor. After the front passed, we had to move again, because of some barge traffic. Both anchors appear to be holding, so far, in our new location.
During the storm, we noticed the wind generator was not working. I ran several test to make sure nothing had come lose on the passage over. Everything looked good. We call the factory and they confirmed the unit had a short and had to be returned.
Update 02/15 - We got the generator down and made a cardboard box to ship it in. To send it back to the states, using Fed.Ex., was $90.00. Hope they return it soon. Meanwhile Andi is enjoying the casino. So far we are ahead, but not enough to cover the Fed.Ex. bill.
Update 02/20 - The refrigerator has quit working again. It acts just like it did in Jacksonville FL, when all the coolant was lost. We may check on getting it repaired in Nassau. We are currently re-thinking why we even need a refrigerator. The water maker could use the extra power. We were talking with a couple on another boat anchored near us. They said the definition of "Cruising" was "Doing boat maintenance in exotic places.". We agree.
Update 02/26 - Still no word on the wind generator. The last time we talked to the factory, they said it was working OK when it arrived. They were going to check it again before shipping it back.
We spent another $25 trying to access the net. Junk E-mail has become a major problem. We tried using two of the local Internet Lounges, but neither could access the ATT net. We then tried using an International Travel Service Calling Card. You call a access number, enter the card pin number, and the number you are calling. Our computer was able to reach the net, but could not get past the hand-shake.We connected sever times using several numbers in the US, before giving up. I wish it had worked, you get 8 minutes for $5.
Update 03/04 - The wind generator came in with a list of repairs. We got it installed and I believe it works better than it did when we bought it. We had the generator shipped to us C/O BASRA (Bahama Air Sea Rescue Association). We also decided to get a mail run while we were here. Some was sent UPS and some was mailed. The UPS came, no problem. The mailed part is another story. It was sent to the same BASRA address as the UPS. The problem is there are no "Mailmen" in the Bahamas. If you get mail, you must get a PO Box. All other mail goes to "General Delivery" at the post office. BASRA has a box but we used their address. No one here will venture a guess where it will end up. General Delivery Main Post Office, General Delivery BASRA's Post Office, BASRA's PO Box (if someone recognizes the name), Returned to Sender Address Unknown, or just plain lost. We plan on giving it till Monday, then start checking weather and heading south, to George Town.
Update 03/08 - We have been befriended by a local Bahama lady who works at a hotel on Treasure Island. Her husband is a taxi driver at the airport. She came by today and chauffeured us around the island to the mall for some bathing suits shopping. We also went to a discount food store where she is a member. It's a lot like Sam's in the US. Even there the prices seemed about 20% higher than at home.
We then went to the American Embassy so I could get some tax forms. This is the first one I had ever seen. Security was tight. Five or six guards at the road block gate leading to the building, Guards at the turnstile of the twelve-foot fence surrounding the building, walk through metal detectors at each outside door, and the door from the outside and the ones on the inside that lead from one section to another felt like the weighed more than 500 lb. This is my first embassy. They may all be like this. It was interesting.
When we returned to DNA, our missing mail had arriver. Even BASRA was suppressed.
03/09 Allan's Cay (24.45N 76.51W) - Motor-sailed seven hours from Nassau through the coral heads on the Yellow Bank. We crossed the Bank about mid day and it was no problem steering around the patches of underwater rocks. They were far apart and easily spot. The wind was chilly at about ten and just off the nose.
Update 03/13 - Allan's is the home of a large population of rock iguanas. Not Andi's favorite critter. We did go on the island several times, but no farther than the beach. The sight of twenty or thirty iguanas coming out of the bushes, is something else. We explored several of the small surrounding islands by dinghy. Andi has started decorating the aloe plant with little things we find.
03/14 Norman's Cay (24.35N 76.49W) - Sailed 3 1/2 hours from Allan. Weather: sunny, wind 10-15. Norman's anchorage is a large open bay. There are a lot of boats in the anchorage.
Update 03/20 - It is getting harder to turn on the computer. A lot has happened. Explored area and local landmarks. This island was once taken over by a drug dealer. After several years he was overthrown. The buildings on the south end of the island are now abandoned and the remains of a large plane are in the middle of the bay.
One day the boaters had a pot lunch on the beach. There was everything from polish sausage to cheese cake. For good food there was also McDuffs. From the way people talked, we expected a small air-conditioned restaurant. What we saw, when we walked the 1/4 from the anchorage, was something else. The building was a 20ft room about 4ft in the air with the upper half screened in. On one end there's a 15ft deck, with tables and chairs, extending out from building. About 50ft down a path was the rest room. A three sided, no roof stall. We can't describe it in detail because the need did not arise. At least none that couldn't wait till we got back to DNA. The inside of the restaurant was divided into two rooms, the bar and a kitchen. We tried the hamburger($6) and were surprised, when it came. The meat was about 3/4'' thick and hung out of the bun on all sides. They then set a tray on the table with all the fixings: mayo, mustard, tomatoes, onions, pickles,..... . It tasted as good as or better than it looked. On another day I tried the fish sandwich($8). It equaled the hamburger in size and quality. If you're ever in the area, this place is a must.
The out board quit with a broken fuel line. Another boater had a spare piece they gave us. The next day the other hose went bad. It was so bad that pieces went to the carburetor. When I removed it, a piece of the linkage was taken by the great sea monster. The hose size was larger than the first and no one had a replacement. The next afternoon, I was on the boat next to us, helping with a problem they were having. Another boater came by and said he had spotted an old outboard motor in the dump at the end of the island. When we finished the repairs, I returned to DNA for Andi and tools. We headed for the dump where we were able to find the lost part and the fuel hose as a bonus. Two hours later, the outboard was running again. I'm not happy with the way it sounds, but it has never failed to get us back to DNA. It will take a while to get all the settings readjusted.
03/21 Big Major Spot at Staniel Cay (24.11N 76.28W) - Another windy-chilly six-hour motor-sail to Staniel Cay. We anchored off Big Major Spot. This is the home of the famous cruising pig. When you go on her beach, she will come out to meet you, looking for food. If you don't go ashore, she will swim out to the boat. She's not small, I guess between three and five hundred pounds. She looks intimidating, but is as friendly as a small kitten.
Update 03/27 - Staniel Cay has the Thunderball Grotto where the James bond movie was filmed. Although you can swim in at low tide, we have not had the chance. Our lips have been extremely chapped for several weeks now. I guess all the sun and wind we've had and the running around in the dinghy hasn't helped. Andi is getting frustrated, it seems the weather pattern has been two good days followed by three bad. For the last day and a half, where we are anchored has had two to four foot waves and wind at fifteen. DNA is in constant motion. I dropped one of our heaviest anchors off the bow, where it just touched the bottom. It seems to help the pitching some, but not a lot.
Update 03/29 - The weather has calmed down. The anchor I dropped off the bow, disconnected itself from the chain and was laying on the bottom. At low tide, I was able to dive down the eight feet and secured a line to it. We were lucky, the shackle and pen was laying near by. We have now checked and wired all the shackle pins where this won't happen again.
We moved DNA over to Staniel Cay to shorten the dinghy ride to town and Thunderball Grotto. We snorkeled for the first time, the water is still cold. Andi was not happy at first, but came around when she started feeding all the fish in the Grotto. Not bad! It was fun.
After doing some shopping and visiting with friends, we moved DNA back around the point to Big Major Spot.
Update 04/02 - Yesterday we took DNA back over to Staniel for a town picnic. This is an annual thing to help finance the clinic. Lunch was so much fun we decided to stay for the supper. It was dark and the wind had started to pickup by the time we started back to DNA. When we got back aboard, the wind was blowing pretty hard and it looked to us that the anchor wasn't holding. We were in about six feet of water and the computer said we were just past high tide. Because we weren't sure of the area we decided to pull up anchor and return to Big Major Spot. When we rounded the point, the anchor lights looked like a small city. I turned on the radar so we could find a path through the boats. THERE WAS NO PATH! There was over forty boats in the anchorage. Using the radar, we found a spot between two fifty-foot-plus yachts and dropped anchor. When everything was secure we noticed we hadn't turned on the radio. When we did, we found we were the topic of conversation.
Knowing the problem we were having with our dinghy, one of our boater friends wanted to make sure we had made it back ok. When other boats looked to see if the dinghy was behind DNA, they couldn't find DNA. At this point everyone started looking for the dinghy or DNA. We were able to interrupt the search and apologize to everyone for causing so much fuss.
04/04 Black Point Settlement - Great Guana Cay (24.06N 76.24W) - After another trip to Grotto and saying our good by to new boater friends heading north, we decided it was time to continue on. Black Point is less than ten miles from Staniel so we motored and arrived around 11:30 AM. After checking the weather and seeing what's coming tomorrow night, we have decided not to stay. We plan to leave in the morning and head south. We hope to stop here on the way back.--- MORE 2000 ---
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