Quetico Provincial Park Adventure (May 20-June 1, 2002)

By DentonDoc:  Wayne (Traveling companion:  Bill)

 

Day 0, Monday, May 20th: (Traveling from Dallas to Ely, MN)  We got an early morning start.  Jan, Bill and I were up at around 3:30 am and on the road to the airport by 4:00 to make our 6:00 departure (NorthWest Airlines) to Minneapolis.  The trip to Minneapolis was uneventful, except for the 5+ hour layover to catch our next leg to Hibbing (via Brainerd) on a 30-seat turbo-prop.

Photo 1:  Mesaba Airlines

          We got into Hibbing on time and a van from Canadian Border Outfitters was waiting to pick us up.  A young fellow (didn’t catch the name) drove us back to Ely (actually outside Ely on Moose Lake) giving us some of the “low down” during our ride.  Got to the outfitters about 5:00 pm.

Photo 2:  CBO Office & Store

          We checked in and had a preliminary meeting with the outfitter, retrieved our mailed items (e.g., stoves, rods, etc.) and “checked-in” to the Spartan bunk house (as in we slept in our sleeping bags).  Did a preliminary GPS check and found our exact location . . . dead on target.  Around 6:00, we went down to the cook shack and had a burger and fries along with our first taste of Pig’s Eye beer.  Then we met with the outfitter to talk about our route through Agnes Lake the coming day.  We returned to our accommodations by 8:00 and continued with our re-packing for the trek.  Dropped off for an attempt at sleep along about 10:30-11:00, but the mental wheels continued to turn in anticipation of our trip . . . what will tomorrow hold!

 

Day 1, Tuesday, May 21st: (Working our way through Agnes Lake)  Up at 5:45 am for a quick (cold) shower and a 7:00 breakfast of French Toast, coffee and OJ.  We dropped off our gear on the way to breakfast so the outfitter could load it on the “tow” boat.  After checkout our life jackets, and throwing on some clothes to block the wind (cool morning in the 40’s), we got underway about 8:00.

 

          We cleared Prairie Portage (Canadian border crossing & customs) about 9:40.  (Actually we arrived at the portage about 8:40 but with picture taking, portaging our gear across to Canada and getting in behind 2 other groups, it took a while before we were in the canoe and gone. 

Photo 3:  Canadian Border Crossing

          On our way to Ranger Portage (Basswood to Burke Lake), I saw an eagle swoop down and catch a fish (which other birds promptly tried to steal … no go with those eagle claws).  We crossed Ranger Portage in one pass.  (I had both my personal pack and the common/food pack.  Talk about heavy!  Passage from Burke Lake (via Singing Brook Portage) to Sunday Lake was uneventful and the portage was just a matter of 30-40 feet.  We then tried the passage from Sunday Lake to Meadow Lake in one portage.  I lasted about 100 yards and had to put down the common pack.  Trail was obvious (as were all we took), but a bit hilly and ROCKY!  We met up with our first so-journers at this portage.  We came in behind a couple of ladies who came across North Portage (Basswood to Sunday Lake direct) and as we got to Meadow lake, we found a couple that was 2 groups ahead of us leaving Prairie Portage (they had also used North Portage).  We stopped our trek briefly on Meadow Lake and had lunch . . . being somewhat disappointed in our progress (wishing to be on Agnes, perhaps to Louisa Falls by lunch time).  After lunch, we loaded up the canoe for the irritatingly short trip to the portage from Meadow to Agnes Lake.  I suggested we swap and I’d take the canoe and Bill take the common pack.  (I wanted to make sure I wasn’t being a pansy.)  Bill reached the same conclusion—too heavy . . . double portaging became our standard method for the remainder of the trip . . . most were reasonably short and not worth spending the energy to make it in one pass).  Of course, being stubborn, I made this portage in one pass carrying my pack and the canoe . . . and almost made it to the end before steep terrain and rocky footing planted me squarely on my rear-end (within 100 feet of the end of the portage).  Again, we re-loaded the canoe and were finally on Agnes Lake. 

Photo 4:  Finally on Agnes Lake

Being a bit behind schedule, as we glided past Louisa Falls, me made a pledge to ourselves that we would visit it on the return trip.  As we reached “bigger/wider” waters, we became more aware of the Southerly wind (10-20 mph) at our backs, thus making good time . . . with an occasional adjustment when the wind wanted to push the rear of the canoe toward the front end.  Otherwise, the trip up Agnes was uneventful as Bill “drove” and I paddled for the reminder of our day.  Although we did spot a couple of other canoes (and trailed them for an hour or so), we had no other contact this day (and for the 2 days that followed . . . only briefly spotting one other canoe and a camp site that was obviously occupied).  We put in for the evening around 6:00 on a small island campsite protected from the southerly breezes by another island just south of us.  I set up camp while Bill cooked. 

Photo 5: Island Camp Site

We “woofed” down our food and did a few other preliminaries before we were off to bed.  A very long day . . . glad most days won’t be like this (although, being an “adventure” it wasn’t all bad.)  But there was good news.  We made it at least 2/3rds up Agnes and within striking distance of where we planned to set up our base camp the next day . . . and NO BUGS (it was still too cool for them to hatch)!

 

 

Photo 6:  Kawnipi ahead!             

Day 2, Wednesday, May 22nd: (Off to Kawnipi!)  We left our island campsite about 8:00 after a quick breakfast and camp tear-down  (Bill “drove” this day as well).  Water temperature was still noticeably cold as we set out and the southerly wind got an early start.  With white-caps starting, we decided to hug the north- and east-side of several islands as we worked our way toward the western shore of Agnes.  We found our portage trail out of Agnes Lake without difficulty and after 3 easy portages (Agnes to Un-named; Un-named to Keewatin and Keewatin to Kawnipi), we arrived at Kawnipi Lake … our “base camp” lake for the bulk of our stay. Our arrival time at the Kawnipi-end of the portage was at lunch and after a refueling break (lunch) we set off to explore the western end of Kawnipi

.

 

Photo 7:  Packing up from lunch.

Photo 8:  Base Camp (below)                                                                   Photo 9:  Bill wets a line (below)

 

As we launched from shore, I speculated that we might reach our projected campsite by 3:00 (maybe wishful thinking).  As we turned into the channel south of Rose Island, we temporarily lost our bearings . . . thinking we were further down the lake than we were.  We had spotted an occupied camp site (no one home) and thought we had positioned it on the map.  We pulled into a small island to gather our bearings and take a brief rest.  I whipped out the GPS and sure enough, “we are right here!”  (This was the only time I used the GPS to actually determine our location during the entire trip, but better safe than sorry when you’re beginning to tire.)  We’re about 40 minutes short of where we thought we were.  After our break, we made quick work of the remaining leg, but we didn’t initially spot our proposed campsite.  With a little closer inspection of the shore line, I spotted what I thought looked a likely spot.  We beached and took a short walk into the area and sure enough . . . HOME! (and at 3:00 pm) as well.  .  We spent the rest of the afternoon setting up in “full” camp mode (with rain fly for cooking, clothes line, hammock) in addition to the “standard” set up.

 

After I cooked up an early dinner (while Bill tried the waters), and discovering I had left my dehydrated chicken in the frig. at home, we still had a bit of daylight after cleanup so I joined Bill in testing my fishing skills.   “Caught” my first Northern Pike.  I say “caught” because I managed to work him to shore only to have him make a last ditch run from shore and SNAP!  I had forgotten to re-set my drag and my first “catch” took line, leader and lure into the deep. (Estimated size of my first “catch” . . . just shy of about 3 feet.)  Walked over to where Bill was fishing to lament my loss, but it wasn’t long before I had another Northern on the line . . . this time with the drag appropriately set.  After landing this smaller (2-foot version) Pike, I decided to let fishing take a break until the next day.   We turned in about 9:30 (just at sunset and as a few bugs began to buzz around) with the wind began to blow (we added additional guy line to the front of the tent, just in case).  It wasn’t long before the wind was really whipping (to an estimate 50 mph or so).  As I began to wonder if the tent would still be standing in the morning, I drifted off to sleep with the sound of distant Loons in my ears.

 

Day 3, Thursday, May 23rd: (First real fishing day).  The wind continued to howl most of the night and in the morning it was apparent that the entire day was likely not to be perfect for being on “big” water.  Discussing this over breakfast, we decided to try our luck in Lemay Bay . . . just around the corner from our campsite.  Not getting an early start (9:30), we arrived at the outflow of the Lemay River by about 10:00.  The longer we fished, the warmer the weather, so we had pealed down to tee-shirts by 11:00.  Pike were plentiful (Bill caught them in 3’s and 4’s and tied into one that was perhaps 4 feet long, but unfortunately it made a final lunge and broke his line) and after a few catches, I caught my first Walleye, which weighed in at 3.2 pounds.  A “nice fish.”  I kept him for a while in anticipation of adding to my stringer, but he was the solo Walleye for the day and we eventually released him.  As the day wore on, the temps began to plunge, so by noon what had been upper 60’s and partly cloudy quickly changed to mid-40’s and light rain.  After having explored a bit up-stream (and catching a number of respectable Pike), I returned to our beaching location to put on more clothes and rain suit.  I passed Bill in the process (he was heading up-stream to check the waters).  We ate lunch in private and I stayed in the general area for a bit of after lunch fishing.  Bill on the other hand, stayed up-stream and out of sight for an hour or so.  On his return, he related his experience of looking up and watching a black bear (on the other side of the stream) slowly stroll back into the overgrowth.  We decided to call it quits by mid-afternoon as the wind increased and headed back to our camp for a little relaxation and planning for the next day.  As we pulled into our “cove,” our first casualty occurred … I broke the blade on my paddle as the wind pushed us toward a cluster of submerged rocks we preferred not to hit.  Luckily, we had opted for 3 paddles on our departure from the outfitters so the backup became almost immediately useful.  I took various photos of our campsite and a nearby island. 

Photo 10:  Out our front door

Photo 11:  Neighbor Island

After dinner, we spotted a couple trolling around the island in a cute little red canoe (our only other human “contact” that day).  Bill spotted them cruising by early the next morning—before 7:00am, on their way out, we surmised.  In any case, we didn’t see them again.

 

Day 4, Friday, May 24th:  (An adventure up the Cache River)  The day began a bit breezy, but as the day wore on, it became the first of our “Blue Bird” days--bright blue sky, warm temperatures and light (to non-existent) winds.  I had mentioned the day before that I’d like to try my hand at driving when we had a nice day and I didn’t have to learn in choppy water.  Although I was a bit uncertain because we started off the day with a breeze (and this generally meant windy later on), I reluctantly plopped down in the back of the canoe and we set off for the Cache River in search of warmer waters (and more active fish).  I surprised myself in terms of how quickly I learned how to adjust my stroke to balance the canoe and keep paddling on one side (however, I consistently preferred the right side when paddling in the rear).  Navigation also went well in that I only cause a 5-minute detour when I mistook the channel east of Kasie Island for the inlet to the Cache River (which was just a little further east).  Traveling up the Cache River to the 1st set of falls, the weather continued to moderate and the wind died to the point that we were getting into our first “flat” water.  As we slid along against an almost unnoticeable current, we reached the rapids at about 10:30 (after about 2 hours cruising) and dismounted to fish.  Again, Pike were THE active fish in this almost coffee colored water with significantly warmer temperature (maybe 10 degrees warmer than the water in Kawnipi).

 

Photo 12: Cache River Pike      

Photo 13:  Cache River Falls

We independently had lunch . . . I slightly above our beaching point and Bill adjacent to the first set of falls and in the little lake beyond. 

 

By around 1:00 pm, we had decided that we wanted to locate something besides Pike, so we re-traced our steps to a set of narrows we had passed on the approach to the falls (maybe 40 minutes away).  The water was a bit deeper in places and confined by the channel, so we hoped to tie into a few Walleye.  We rigged for live bate and began to try our luck.  Sure enough over the next couple of hours we had 3 adequate Walleye to add to our dinner.  I watched Bill fillet these fish (1 of which was my contribution), but did notice a couple of Sea Gulls that had been in the vicinity for the better part of an hour.  They were obviously well schooled in terms of what it meant to see people fishing.  Bill had no sooner begun to clean the fish than they perched themselves on an adjacent rock and began to screech incessantly.  They were, of course, looking for the leftovers, which they promptly consumed. 

 

After securely packaging up our catch, we set out on our return to home base.  While still in the river, I suggested we might be able to pick up a 4th fish if Bill trolled at least part of the way back.  So, for about the next hour, we move slowly through the lower reaches of the Cache River and out into one of the arms of Kawnipi.  Again, I was pleased that I could keep the canoe moving in a predictable direction in solo paddle mode.  After catching a Pike or two, we decided to beat it back to our base camp location and try out Lemay Bay for one last Walleye.  Although, the Pike were still present . . . no luck in getting one more “meal” fish.  Perhaps this was just as well.  At dinner, we had Teriyaki noodles, biscuits and FRIED WALLEYE FILLETS!  Talk about FANTASTIC. 

Photo 14:  Walleye Filets--Yummy!

 These were perhaps the best fried fish I can remember having in my mouth, but of course anything this fresh is always hard to beat.  We finished our meal patting our full bellies and commenting on how we couldn’t force down another bite (which we promptly followed by dessert).  Sunset this evening was truly

Photo 15:  Spectacular Sunset on Kawnipi

 spectacular and I also caught the full moon rising over our nearby island a bit later.  The night was peaceful and we again crawled into our tent about 9:30 to retire for the evening.

 

Day 5,  Saturday, May 25th: (A stay at home day)  We got up to a cool morning (mid-thirties) and I decided to declare a “stay in camp” day.  I had forewarned Bill that I would likely do this at least once during our trek and after having been out a number of days, I felt in dire need of a shower.  So, I informed Bill that “today is the day.”  I filled up my solar shower and helped Bill load rocks in the canoe for ballast as he pushed off at about 10:00 for a return into Lemay Bay for more fishing adventures.  I tried my own hand from shore around camp for the rest of the morning.  The fishing was somewhat slow as was the warning of the day…, which remained on the cool and breezy side.  I broke for a lunch of HOT Chicken Noodle soup… my only hot lunch of the trip.  By early afternoon, it appeared that “this is as warm as I’m likely to get” so I proceeded to collect all the stuff needed to take my shower.  After picking the only likely spot I could find with sufficient places to place clothes, towels, shower gear, etc. and a flat spot to stand, I began to lather up.  I was feeling really good about this accomplishment as I was rinsing my hair when out of the corner of my eye, I spotted the aft section of a passing canoe.  Now, not expecting company I, of course, didn’t set up a shower curtain.  So, whether or not I “flashed” a passing neighbor is unknown (but at least we didn’t make eye contact).  After my shower, I washed and hung out clothes and I also started making bread (to ultimately become tomato-basil bread sticks for dinner).  Sound pretty domestic don’t I!  Weather began to turn cool again by 2:30, so I retired to the tent for a nap.  (I really went into the tent to place my bread dough between my feet in my sleeping bag so it would be warm enough for it to rise.)  I could hear the patter of rain on the tent as I drifted off for a 30-minute nap.  About 4:00, I emerged from the tent to damp surroundings (including the clothes I had hung out to dry).  Bill returned by 5:00 with a “what did you think of the snow flurries” inquiry.  Of course, I had been in the tent and had missed it (not that I was particularly disappointed).  I began dinner by baking the bread sticks (we sampled before eating dinner).  We added the bread sticks to tomato penne pasta with poppy seed muffins for dessert.  Again, we were stuffed when we finished up about 8:00 and during dinner conversation, Bill related that he had caught a 2-foot Pike (which in itself was not unusual), but as he reeled in, a 4-footer tried to eat it.  He managed to get both close enough to shore for pictures, before the larger fish decided that this was no place to be.   We puttered around camp for a while before turning in around 9:30 (again).

 

Photo 16:  A 2-fer (A larger Pike trying to eat the one on Bill’s line)

 

Day 6, Sunday, May 26th: (A long haul to the tail waters of the Wawiag River).   The night before, we discussed our plans for this day and we had pledged that if the day started out nice, we would make a run to the head waters of Kawa Bay.  Again, we were searching for warmer waters and   entertainment other than the ever

Photo 17:  Off to Kawa Bay

present Pike.  The day broke clear with near glassy waters (no wind) and I plopped in the back seat again as we departed at 9:15.  We paddled past McKenzie Bay (our destination the next day) and with a small detour almost into the mouth of the Murdock Lake entrance, we make a bit of a U-turn into the mouth of Kawa Bay.  After paddling in a short distance, we decided to try our hand trolling again.  And, of course, we managed to catch more Pike.  With steadily increasing winds, we worked our way toward the “narrows” leading into upper Kawa Bay.  Bill caught his first Smallie (Smallmouth Bass) of the trip ... a nice sized fish. 

Photo 18:  Our first Smallie

With the south/southwest wind beginning to rise, we decided we had better beat it to the head waters, so we began to paddle in earnest, picking our way around islands to take advantage of the wind breaks.  We reached our destination about 12:30 as white caps begin to build.  We pulled into the mouth of the Wawiag River because the adjacent campsite had a two-canoe party eating lunch there.  We lunched on the adjacent bank of the river.  After lunch (and after the two-canoe party put back out to open water), we moved to the adjacent shore to be in a better position for fishing relative to the wind where we fished until 4:00.  Of course, we pulled in the ever-present Pike, but this time we managed to accumulate a number of Walleye, including Bill’s largest Walleye of the trip).  After Bill filleted the catch,

Photo 19:  Bill fillets up a Walleye dinner

 we set off at 4:30 on our return trip to camp into a strong southerly breeze.  After taking a couple of rest breaks, we made it back to camp having paddled vigorously for 3 hours.  On our return trip, we passed the 2-canoe party near the mouth of Kawa Bay.  We learned had flown into a Clay Lake at the head waters of the Wawiag River and had paddled down river. 

 

Back at camp, Bill played chef for the evening.

Photo 20:  Chef Bill

After splitting 16 fillets and the accompanying side dishes, we CRAWLED into our tent to rest our aching/tired bodies.

 

Day 7, Monday, May27th: (Exploring McKenzie Bay)  We woke up to an absolutely PICTURE PERFECT day – bright sun, clear, no wind, and temperatures headed for the lower 70’s.  After we finished breakfast, by 8:30, we were headed for the narrows separating upper and lower McKenzie Bay.  We reached our fishing spot by 10:30.  By lunch, I had caught several Pike and 2 Walleye (and had let what I thought was a Smallie get away from me).  I was really proud of my accomplishments until I ran into Bill at lunch.  He already had 7 Walleye on his stringer and had hauled in both Pike and Smallmouth. 

Photo 21:  Bill's Walleye Stringer

 After we shared lunch, he also shared his fishing spot where we both caught several more Pike and Walleye (and I began a streak of loosing fish, lures and line).  We both got a series of pictures of each of us catching fish (mine were probably the smallest Pike and Walleye I caught on the entire trip, but at least I was catching fish.)  By mid-afternoon, I moved to the stream feeding water through the narrows.  I had previously checked, but it looked too shallow for many fish.  On closer inspection (and rock hopping to get to the middle of the stream), I found a deep pool.  Here I caught my first Smallmouth Bass.

Photo 22:  My first Smallmouth

However, after a couple of more nice sized Smallies, my line was broken again and I decided to hang it up for the remainder of the day.  I returned to Bill’s prized spot and I cleaned our 4 selected Walleye (we released the others), while Bill tried out my newly-found Smallie hot spot.  After I finished my fillet work, Bill returned having landed a number of Smallies himself.  So, by this day, we had both “hit for the cycle” having caught Pike, Walleye and Smallmouth Bass.  (The cycle should have included Lake Trout, but we never really tried for them.)  As we returned to our camp by late afternoon, the only bad news is that we passed boat loads of people.  One party of 3 canoes and a pair of folks in another canoe as we rounded the entrance into McKenzie Bay.  We could see that the weekend had brought more visitors into the area (which we should have expected for Memorial Day weekend).  Well there was really a second bad news item .. the warmer weather had brought the bugs out in force – predominantly gnats at this point, but they were thick and would buzz into any opening available, including ears, nose and mouth.  Again, we feasted on Walleye fillets (the principle reason we didn’t loose any weight on this trip).  Again, a beautiful sunset after dinner.  All things considered, this was the perfect day of the trip.

 

Day 8,  Tuesday, May 28th:  (Headed to Smallmouth Heaven—Murdock Lake)  Before the trip, Bill had be proclaiming the outstanding Smallmouth fishing on Murdock Lake, so by 9:30 on this pleasant morning we stuck out to explore this venue (new for me and the only repeat fishing spot for Bill during his 1997 trip).  As I drove the canoe, we slid along the southern shoreline of Kawnipi searching for the entrance to Murdock Lake.  By  10:30, we were at the narrows, which lead into the lake. 

Photo 23:  Pool below Murdock

 We stopped and tried our luck, but no Smallies were present (or much of anything else). So by 11:30, Bill was dragging the canoe through the “rapids” into Murdock proper. 

Photo 24:  The Murdock pullover

With a slightly increasing wind, we padded to the head waters of Murdock, where we found a pleasant little set of falls.  We fished for a bit and then stopped for lunch.  As we were finishing up lunch, a fellow (solo) traveler crossed the portage just behind us.  After a few pleasantries, we asked the condition of the portages back up Murdock to Agnes Lake.  We had heard their condition was relatively poor and had taken the longer way into Kawnipi on Day 2.  He reported that although the condition of the portages was good, we would have a few trees to step over across the trail … all in all, the portage to Agnes should take about 2 hours.  He bit us farewell, and tossed a lure into the water just off a rocky point Bill had been fishing, as if to mark the spot … “here is where the Smallies are.”  Of course, he pulled in a fish in the process.  As he paddled off, we made a pact to return to this spot the next day to shorten our exit journey.  After lunch, Bill continue to ply the waters off the rocky point (sometimes standing on “elephant” rock and sometimes standing off shore on top of the rocky ledge).

Photo 25:  Fishing on Murdock (below falls)

His luck was pretty good, I sputtered (perhaps my lack of interest was beginning to creep through).  So during much of the remainder of the early afternoon, I lounged while Bill continued to fish.  As we departed, we fished to south/southwest shoreline, since our recent acquaintance had suggested that the Smallies were on their beds there, but we didn’t locate any hot spots.  On our exit trip, we decided to “run the rapids.” 

Photo 26:  Murdock "rapids"

 I had questioned Bill if he thought the water was deep enough and he had assured me that it was.  Well of course, running the first set we managed to get ourselves securely wedged between two rocks as we attempted to navigate our “Nile Barge” down stream.  Luckily, we were wedged against the rock face on the left side of the stream, so Bill stepped out of the canoe.  With a little urging, our canoe was free and we headed down to the next gap in the rocks.  The second passage went perfectly and as we were patting ourselves on the back, we promptly got ourselves “high centered” on a submerged rock just past the rapids.  Paddle, push, shove, pry . . . we remained stuck for several minutes.  Finally, I suggested we swing our upper bodies backward in unison.  After three tries, we managed to scoot off of the rock that was holding us. 

 

As we rounded the entrance back into Kawnipi, the wind made its presence known, but we only had a short leg to complete as we turned back to home base.  As Bill prepared our meal for the evening, I took my second shower of the trip.  Afterwards, we had a quick meal, did limited camp cleanup, and ducked into our tent as the first thunder storm rolled in at about 8:30 pm.  So, we decided to go ahead with an early turn-in in preparation for out exit journey to begin tomorrow.

 

Day 9,  Wednesday, May 29th:  (Return visit to Murdock Lake)  After an evening of on-and-off rain, we awoke the next morning to THICK fog. 

Photo 27:  Early morning fog (left)

Photo 28:  Murdock falls (below)

 

Our plans for the day were to break camp and head back into Murdock to shorten our exit route down Agnes the following day.  Since we didn’t have far to travel (and we were going to fish along the way), we had a leisurely breakfast and camp break down.  We were partly taking our time because the fog was too thick to travel effectively and the preceding evening’s rain had all of our exposed gear pretty much saturated.  By 10:30am, the fog had cleared and we had aired as much of our gear as made since for this short leg of our trip.  We reached the narrows leading into Murdock by 11:30.  We again decided to try our luck here  and again, the story was pretty much the same.  Although we tied into a few Pike, the Smallies seemed to be on vacation.  We stayed long enough to enjoy lunch in this picturesque spot before fishing our way back up Murdock to our destination near the falls for the night.

 

While doing a little fishing after lunch, Bill discovered a large fanny pack on the shoreline.  We investigated its contents and discovered the owner’s name and address.  (Bill called him after our trip and he was surprised to here of our discovery and the fact that all of the fanny pack’s contents were present—even including his wallet, which we hadn’t noticed.  Bill mailed the pack back to this lucky traveler the day after we returned home.)  As we fished our way to our evening’s location, we did manage to get into the Smallies.  They were not exactly plentiful, but steady and generally of the 2-3 pound class – real scrappers.  Toward mid-afternoon, the wind began to rise on what had previously been a cloudless, windless, warm day.  We finally pulled into the falls area at the head of Murdock about 5:00.  We packed our gear into the woods to a camp site we had spotted the day before.  We should have probably give this a bit more thought because out of the wind (typically present on points), the bugs were thick enough to cut with a knife.  But, being committed at this point, we made the best of it.  Camp was set up and we had eaten dinner by 7:00.  Bill returned to fishing after dinner and in failing light of another great day, he was still pulling in fish after fish off the rocky ledge below the falls.  With approaching darkness, we crawled into our tent (as much to escape the bugs … including both mosquitoes and black flies by this time … as to retire for the evening).

 

Day 10,  Thursday, May 30th:  (Our return to Agnes)  After another evening/early morning rain, we had our breakfast in this “worst camp of trip” in soggy conditions.  

Photo 29:  Camp "Lost in the Woods"

Since our objective this day was to essentially run the length of Agnes, we needed to get ourselves moving.  Damp or not, everything was packed and we were on the water by 8:00.  We faced a number of short portages to reach Agnes and we did find a few places where we needed to step over a tree in the trail and at least one place where we had to divert off the trail for a brief period to get around some down fall.  As we journeyed up the West Channel of the Agnes River, we could tell that the wind was increasing.  We finished our final portage at 10:40 and looked down an Agnes Lake that was already white capping.  We had all along hoped that for this day, especially, we would have calm conditions (or hopefully a slight wind, from almost any direction other than south).  Thus, we launched into Agnes into a brisk breeze out of the south and navigated as best we could into favorable positions behind islands or near shorelines.  By lunch, we reached our original island (first night) campsite where we again stopped for re-fueling and a brief rest. 

Photo 30:  Lunch break on Agnes

          While there, a pair of kayaker’s showed up and they were our brief companions as the continued our journey.  As we continued south, we plowed through the waves and made surprising time based on the conditions we faced.  Didn’t see many other adventurers during this stage of our journey.  As the lake began to narrow, we began to encounter more canoe traffic and an occasional thunderstorm that drove us to shore for cover.  We arrived at our final camp site for the trip at 4:30 in the afternoon.  It was labeled the “Boy

Photo 31:  The "Boy Scout" Camp

Scout” camp because it was large enough to host an entire troop.  We set up in windy conditions, which assisted in drying out tent and other gear that hadn’t been completely dry in a couple of days.  Although a number of canoeists were obvious, we were not sufficiently close to any to carry on any conversation.  So, we set up camp and had our final evening meal, partly crouched under the rain fly as evening showers returned.  After dinner, we did some preliminary clean-up and re-packing in preparation for our final push the next day.  Our target was to leave about 8:00 so we could reach the Canadian border by about 2:00 and our tow ride back to the outfitters at 3:00.

 

Day 11,  Friday, May 31st:  (Last Day Out)  Although I awoke early (4:30 or so), since it had rained the night before, our final camp break down took a lot of time.  In any case, we were up for the dawn on this day (the only day we actually saw the sun rise, which typically occurred slightly after 5:00 am).  We ate breakfast while tearing down our camp and hanging some things out to dry.    We also noticed a pair of canoes headed toward the “exit” of Agnes (more about this later).  Our leisurely pace resulted in our departure from camp at 8:20.  We felt that this still put us in position to reach Prairie Portage by 2:00 that afternoon.  As we initially paddled with little purpose, we approached Louisa Falls and true to our original pledge, we stopped and took a few photo’s. 

Photo 32:  Louisa Falls

Our pace quickened a bit as we started the pull for home.  The portage from Agnes to Meadow lake was easier than we remembered going in . . . no doubt due to our now light food and fuel load.  We jumped right off the end of this portage for the brief paddle to the next portage.  While collecting our gear for the portage from Meadow to Sunday Lake, we encountered an older gentleman (later determined to be 74) who had returned to pick up one remaining backpack.  We later established that he was one of the passengers in the two canoes he had spotted earlier that morning.  In any case, we struck up a conversation (and mentioned about some gloves we had spotted).  We met up with the remainder of the his crew on the trail and at the end of the portage.  Jack, the middle aged leader of the expedition, was joined by his father (74), his son (probably about a sophomore in high school), and his father’s 74 year-old friend.  We talked about the relative merits of the North versus Ranger portage and we (collectively) decided that the Ranger portage was the easier route, although requiring a quick Singing Brook portage.  In any case, they shoved off and we returned for our second portage trip (and the gloves that belonged to Jack).  When we launched to traverse Sunday Lake, we assumed that we would not see this party again until we reached the Canadian border.  However, before long, we spotted canoes in the distance.  Still, the distance was too great for us to overtake and they were apparently making for North portage.  We pressed on to Singing Brook portage, and who should pull up behind us but a pair of recognizable canoes and passengers.  Although we didn’t exchange pleasantries here, we pressed on through Burke Lake to the beginning of Ranger portage.  In the process, we noticed that the wind was picking up a bit, but out of the west.  I remember think, at least it will be partially to our backs as we round Ranger portage for our final leg home.  We reached Ranger portage ahead of the other two canoes and started making our way across.  Of course, we passed each other several times in the process of hauling our gear across (during one exchange, Bill had to admit to dropping one of Jack’s gloves in Sunday Lake).  Once we finished, we asked them to take a few shots of us after our final portage. 

Photo 33:  Bayley Bay (The final portage)

They obliged and soon afterwards they set off for the border – one canoe on a reasonably direct line to the exit, the other doing an up-wind leg to put the wind at their backs.  We took a break and had lunch at a nice little campsite to the east of the portage as we watched them paddle away.  As we were finishing lunch, another pair of canoeist reach the end of Ranger portage on their way out.  We pushed off ahead of them with a strong westerly cross wind.  Although I hadn’t given it too much thought earlier, it occurred to me that the bulk of Basswood Bay lay to the west and there was a large body of water over which the wind could build up significant waves.  Sure enough, we hadn’t much more than cleared land fall on our “direct-line” path before it was obvious that my newly learned canoeing skills would be challenged.  With 3 to 4-foot swells running at a 45 degree angle to our intended path, the canoe continually turned to run parallel to the waves (and the potential for swamping).  Hard paddling and periodic re-direction with the waves, put us to a point on the far-shore where we could duck behind an island for a little breather.  It had been about an hour since we set out and we were both feeling the need for a little break.  After a brief discussion about our direction, we again set off to our exit point, this time with a bit more protection with a little land to our backs to block a little of the wind and wave action.  As we approached the border, we of course began to pass more and more canoes and other watercraft on their way out.  I remember watching one canoe where the “driver” was taking off his life jacket and thinking to myself, that is a stupid thing to do in these conditions.  As we reached shore, we soon ran into Jack (his canoe had done an up-wind leg and then made the traversal to the far shore).  His traveling companions, who have actually preceded his launch had not arrived and he was beginning to worry.  He did contact a shuttle boat and convinced them to take a look out for his companions while ferrying other canoes back into shore because of the rough conditions.  After we had portaged our gear to the American side of the border, we returned to the Canadian side to discover that boat #2 and arrive safely after putting in temporarily to get out of the rough waters.  As we waited for our shuttle back to the outfitter’s lodge, we heard that another boat had capsized and the occupants had to make a swim to shore, loosing most of their non-waterized gear in the process.  As it turned out, it was one of the two canoes that arrived at Ranger portage as we were leaving (and they were also with our outfitter).  So, we waited until their canoe and retrievable gear were secured and added to our shuttle before we embarked back to the lodge. 

Photo 34:  How about a ride home!

The ride back was generally quiet in a loaded boat running over choppy water.  We disembarked at the lodge, collected our gear and proceeded back to the office to collect mailing boxes, bags and our bunk house assignment.  We drug ourselves up the steps to the bunk house, eagerly awaiting the hot (will maybe warm) shower that awaited us.  After our cleanup and repacking of some of our gear, we returned to the cook shack to feast on a 16-oz. T-bone steak with all the trimmings.  Afterwards we were finally able to make a few phone calls

Photo 35:  The "Cook Shack"

 home to leave messages.  We settled up with our host and confirmed that our ride back to the airport in Hibbing would leave at 3:00 am!  We repacked the remainder of our gear and returned the to-be-mailed items to the office before catching a few winks prior to our 2:30 wake-up.

 

Day 12, Saturday, June 1st: (Headed Home).  Our ride arrived promptly at 3:00 and we were loaded and on our way to the airport shortly thereafter.  Our chatty driver, who was knowledgeable in all subjects, stopped by US Customs in Ely for us to sign back into the country.  His repartee continued without so much as a breath for the continuation of our ride back to Hibbing.  We arrived “early, if not bright” at 5:00, well ahead of our 6:05 departure.  Loading and other preparations for getting airborne was a bit more casual at this facility.  No sign of flight crew by 5:50 and the ground crew consisted of the same two ladies who did baggage check in, seat assignment and security screening.  However, we were winging our way toward Minneapolis shortly after our scheduled departure time.  We made the “puddle jump” to Brainerd before our next stop at Minneapolis.  We chucked down breakfast, and later lunch, at the airport before our final leg of the journey back to Dallas.  Shortly after our arrival, Aleta showed up for our transport home.  While waiting on our baggage to come down the shoot, I went to snag a cart (we had a load to move), and who do I meet but a newly arrived Canadian passenger attempting to extract a baggage cart from the rack only to exclaim, “what kind of money do they use here!”  Although I offered to pay for her cart, she declined declaring that her son would be there shortly and he would take care of it . . . and so ends another adventure.  All in all a GREAT trip, made even more enjoyable because all parties returned home with the same number of parts they left with!  Yet, at the end of such an adventure, my mind turns to “what adventures will the next trip hold?”

Photo 36:  Pondering what will come

 

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