I am running out of space. So here's a page where stuff can sprout, bloom, wither and die in a month, leaving space for what ever comes next. I'll leave the stuff here for at least a month. So if you swing by monthly you won't miss anything. I don't intend to be rigorous about putting up notes and links and all the other frustrating uneccessaries.

I encourage folks to steal from this page. Let me know and I'll post a link.

The Flemming Williams Uncanard

I built one of these. It flies fine, considering it's weight. I built it with a heavy balsa motorstick and reed wings. I think the original
had a spruce motorstick and music wire wings. I haven't timed it, but the reported 2600 ft seems easy. While not competitive
with the later Twin Pushers, it's a trip in the air.

Rules for the 2003- 2004 George Armstead Event - The Bunch Canary

* Build to the supplied plans - keep the stab and fin size & shape - You must mount the tail as shown  Wood and wire sizes must be as least as shown, even the incidence block. The wheels can be laminated as long as they are at least 3/32’ thick.

 * The prop can be a carved wooden one, or an unscraped commercially available one piece plastic prop balanced by adding weight to the light blade. The diameter can be no bigger than shown on plan.  Pitch &c. are up to you. No folders, variable pitch &c.  - Juniors can use molded props -

* Rear peg can be as shown or be a 1/16” tube mounted on the upright where the wire hook appears on the plan.

* The nose bearings are up to you.

 * You can cover either one or two sides of the flying surfaces. Use Japanese tissue.

* Unless it turns out there is a serious problem, all flights must ROG.

* The highest time of the year is your official score. To any time achieved in a mass launch add 1 second for each participant. in a mass launch. A  mass launch being a flight where two or more fliers launch simultaneously. All participants must either submit a time or have previously posted one.  (No bulking up the launch with non contestants)  Organizing these launches is up to the flyers.

William Hill sent me this.
Thanx

A Speed Model Aeroplane THE model shown in the accompanying drawing in this issue is what is known as a SPEED model, and some have been known to travel at speeds greater than 50 miles per hour.  In fact, one designed by the writer, which was exactly like the drawing, and used in a speed contest held at Van Cortlandt Park about four years ago, travelled at the rate of 55 miles per hour. These speed contests are held over a measured piece of ground one-tenth of a mile long, and the model must pass each point--that is, the starting and finishing lines--in order to be officially timed. It is a very hard thing to control these models, as the least little change in the wing surface or even a slight resistance on one side will make the model turn in a circle.  I have seen model after model started in these speed contests and never reach the finish line, although they would cover much more ground travelling in circles than would be necessary in the straightaway distance. Although the model in the drawing looks out of proportion and awkward, it is a very fine looking machine in the air, and the model builder'is well paid for his work by the flights and the enjoyment he gets out of it. These differ to the long distance models inasmuch as one need not travel as far to bring the model back after each flight, and, again, four sets of rubber are needed to complete the .model. While a speed contest will not be included in the coming contests, it would be well for models clubs who intend con- ducting a set of flights for prizes to include a speed contest on the program, and I am sure that it will be the closest contested and most enjoyed of the program. The expense of building a model of this kind is very low and one can be constructed from parts saved from wrecked long distance models. To construct the model proceed as follows: Make the frame first of  1/4 x 3/16" spruce 30-1/2" long. The ends of each longeron is tapered slightly and fastened together with thread and glue forming the apex of a "V."  This frame   is  known  as  an  "A"  frame  and  is  the  strongest known  for model construction.  A piece of spruce 1/4 x1/8" and about 17" long is given a stream-line shape and fastened across the main longerons at a point a few inches from the rear, as shown.  This becomes the hanger for the outside propellers. This spar must be braced at the ends with a piece of bamboo running from the ends of the spar to the longers.  This takes up the pull of the rubber motors.  Bearings made of 1/32" I.D. brass tubing about 1/8" are soldered to strips of brass and fastened to the ends of this spar.  Two more bearings made of a piece of tubing with a copper washer soldered to each and fastened by inserting into a block of wood are fastened to the ends of the longerons, on the top side.  These bearings are for the inside propellers.  The propellers are of the low pitch type and are 8" in diameter.  There are four in number and all are pushers.  The best way to make the wings is to procure a piece of white pine or clear spruce 3/16" thick, 3 x 22", and sandpaper one side to a smooth finish.  This side is the under side of the wing.  The top should then be shaped to a true wing shape and sandpapered to a smooth finish, as before.  Then two coats of shellac should be applied.  In order to keep the wings from splitting many model builders glue silk to the under side of the wings and after drying press it with a hot iron.  Then shellac or a varnish made of  Ambroid glue diluted with acetone or banana oil is applied to give it strength.  The wings should be fastened on to the model with rubber bands to allow free movement forward if the model should strike the ground forcefully.  The balancing of a model of this kind is very difficult, and it  requires  patience  and  many  tryouts  before  the  correct balance is found.  The proper way is to wind the rubbers up to their full capacity, and have the main wing about away from the first or outside set of propellers.  The elevator should be up to about 4 inches from the apex of the "V" and should have the·front edge elevated about 1/4" higher than the trailing, edge.  When the model is released it will be easily seen whether the model is correctly balanced or not, and it will be protected from pitching nose first to the ground.

 
 
 
 

Crimson Skies  is a video game, a buncha books, and a failed board game. The premise is that in the 30's the USA collapsed into a number of petty states and bandit gangs who fought it out with swoopy airplanes and zeppelins -a sort of over the top combination of Moorcock and Bill Barnes  ( Is Moorcock the right guy?)  A number of pewter game pieces for the board game were avaiable. Andreas  has a fine website with pix of most of these. I'm afraid I don't know his last name.  These pix can be found on http://members.fortunecity.com/phreke/cs/minisgallery.htm. The home page is at...  http://members.fortunecity.com/phreke/cs/CAADFsaloon.htm
 

I saw this one and thought a flying model would make a fine challenge- perhaps the longest Jumbo ever. Oh yes- It's a canard.. I suppose you'd have to cheat on the canard. A lot of dihedral might balance the elephant ears on the canard tips  I'll try to find out more about the .

The three view is form a book called "Spicy Air Tales: Volume One"  The pic of the pewter model is from Andreas' web page.

This will be up until sometime after Jan 28

Elsewhere  http://home.att.net/~dannysoar3/ballooney.htm  I have posted some stuff on Paul Delgatto's Ballooney balloon
powered rocketplane. Here's Tom Schrader's version.
I wrote that  mine did not fly,  that I suspected that when built by the plans,  the air squirting out the rear would  simply be replaced by air squirting in the rear and did he leave his windscreen unglazed in hopes of having the air squirt in the front of the aircraft  and that I thought the the empty flacid ballon hid up in the nose causiing trim problems.. .

He answered
" [Here's]  a  Ballooney with added wings.   I can't say it really flies- but the balloon gives it quite a bit of extended glide. The windows are open and I have 3 pennies in the nose for  balance. You are correct in that the expended balloon makes it more nose heavy. I also used one balloon inside another with a smaller opening but it made the balance problem worse and didn't help on the power. Although it will no longer be a Ballooney, I am either going to try it with electric power or compressed air in soda pop bottles."
  Tom Schrader.

This will be here until after Jan28

You saw it here first! Rocket Hernandez , who does serious modeling up in Alaska competes with this multifunctional F1-ABC model. He also runs a fine website aimed at the modern Hi-tech modeler.  http://www.bristolbay.com/~rocket/RONF1A.HTM Not only that, but he was the first webmaster of this Twin Pushers and Other Free Flight Oddities Site This will be here until after Jan 28

HOME (KLICK)

dannysoar5