Twin Pushers can be made to fly with two right-hand plastic props, but then you have to deal with torque. There are a number of ways to achieve a matched set of left and right handed balsa props.

1) "Plastic" Props- With credit card in hand call Superior Props (504) 822-6535

2)  Paddle Props - The familiar mold-the-blades-on-a-jar propellers will work fine.

3) Molded props - This is traditional, going back to the very beginning of model aviation. The pic shows one for a 1912 Twin Pusher. Thank you Frank Zaic. You can do better than the nails with pieces of wood. But I hope the general scheme is clear. Soak sheet balsa blanks and dry them in the mold.

4) Carving Props- This is the way most twin pusher props were made in the '20s and '30s. It is easier than it sounds. Thayer Symes  has posted my Prop Poop on his excellent site

• 1) Pull off the Wire Dingus and dispose of properly.
• 2) Pull off the Beaters. These are press fit into the spur gears. Grab the Beater Shafts, with pliers and yank. This frees the Spur Gears which, if don't watch it, will escape and run under the furniture. Save everything.
• 3) Remove, and dispose of properly, the Beaters.
• 4) Hacksaw the ends of the Beater Shafts to your satisfaction.
• 5) Drill a small hole in the tip of each Beater Shaft. This is easier, if you first file a flat place on the Beater Shaft to start the hole.
• 6) Reassemble the eggbeater. It is a good idea to put a washer between the Spur Gear and the Frame. You want to make sure that, even with the load of the motors, the spur gear rests on the frame, not the rim of the Big Bevel Gear.
• 7) Drill a 1/16" hole through the shank of each Spur Gear and the Beater Shaft. Pin it with a short length of 1/16" aluminum tube.
• 8) bend and install the piano wire hooks.
• 9) Check the action on a short motor anchored to a doorknob.
• 10) CA the pins in place. ---some optional steps to make winding a treat---
• 11) Cut the Crank in half. At an auto supply place, get a short length of brake line, into which the Crank fits. And buy some JB Weld wonder epoxy stuff.
• 12) Cut a length of brake line and JB Weld yourself a crank extension.
• 13) From a piece of threaded rod and some fender washers (get them at the Home Supply place) fabricate yourself a handle

AFTER

They do a couple of things..

1) They keep the rubber from hanging down in a big sag during the glide.

2) They control the buckling of the motor stick.

After you wind the motor and hook it to the nose of the frame slip it inside the cans. Do this before you take the second motor off the winder. When the first motor is in the cans, then take the second motor off the winder, hook it to the nose and then slip it into the cans. If you have built very light motor sticks, you want to avoid a situation where both motors are wound, hooked up and uncanned.

APPROVED LAUNCH TECHNIQUE

I got this out of Building and Flying Model Aircraft by Paul Garber- Playground and Recreation Association of America Inc. 1928
Note the lightweight single surface twinpusher.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

He writes..
"It seemed to me that one of the few drawbacks of the A-frame concept is the difficulty of getting them into any known model box. This dodge gets over the problem with very little fuss. There must have been many other similar devices unknown to me, but this one has proved itself on the field.
 

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