I take the blame for the drawings and the text. Jerry drew most of the plan. When I started out there was a ruler on the plan so you could enlarge it to the correct size. But in all the cyber folly it escaped.
The total wing span should be 14". The plan fits on an 8-1/2" x 14" sheet.

After the Delta Dart event I sold little kits, with the materials and plans included for a dollar. I gave them all a piece of ceiling tile. The kids took them home and most of them were built the next week.

Materials
11  1/8”x1/16” balsa sticks
1 Delta Dart Motorstick
1 Delta Dart  prop assembly
1 Sheet of tissue
1 length of 3/32” TanII Rubber
2 single edge razor blades
2 Emery boards
Plan & instructions
buncha pins
DT bands
Wax paper
Small brown envelope for the little stuff, to be recycled as trim tabs.

If you don't already have  them you can buy the glue and glue stick separately at the Delta Dart event.
You’ll need a ruler

NOTE: I’ve capitalized terms that are explained in the picture.

THE GLUE ISSUE.
You should use the glue stick to glue the tissue to the frame. For every thing else, you can build a Jerry Knoblauch Special  with  either Ambroid type glue or thick CA. The CA is faster. But it is hard to correct mistakes. The Ambroid type is stronger. It can be loosened, with acetone  in case you need to change something. CHILDREN SHOULD NOT USE CA UNATTENDED.

THE RHYTHM OF BUILDING WITH AMBROID
If you want to make time you should be working on several things at once. That way as the glue is drying on the Wing, you can busy yourself with the tail.

FRAMING THE FLYING SURFACES
Tape the plan to the building board. Tape a piece of wax paper over the plan.

Build both Wings separately.

All the framing is done with 1/8”x1/16” sticks

Pin down the leading and trailing edges. DO NOT PIN THROUGH THE WOOD but cross the pins over the wood. (see pic #1)

Cut the ribs to fit and glue these in place. Make sure both Wings have exactly the same chord (width)

When the glue is dry, lift the uncovered Wing. If it is stuck to the wax-paper slide a razor blade between the wax paper and the Wing.

The Tail Surfaces are framed the same way.

COVERING THE FLYING SURFACES
Cover each Wing separately before gluing them together. Here's how....

Wad the sheet of tissue into a ball. Unwad it. Wad it up again. Unwad it. Wad it up again. Unwad it. Smooth it out as best you can by hand and tape it down with masking tape at the corners and edges. It should look like rhinoceros hide.

Put a thick layer of glue stick on one side of the Wing frame on the leading and trailing edge and the tips.. Don't put glue on the internal ribs. Press the sticky side of the Wing onto the tissue. Make sure it is stuck all around the edge.  Put small weight on the wood  and allow to dry.. Unwrap the second razor blade and cut the excess tissue free . It makes for a stronger airplane if you leave a very small bit of extra tissue and wrap and glue it around the frame. Don’t do this at the Dihedral Joint . You are going to do some gluing here and it is not a good idea to glue to tissue.

THE DIHEDRAL JOINT.
This is where the two Wings are joined together. If you look at the pictures or a Delta Dart you’ll see that they angle up. The plane won’t fly without this angle. Pin a 4” long stick to the building board. I know I just got through telling you this is bad practice , but  go ahead and put a pin through each end of the stick. Then arrange the Wings as shown in the picture #2. with each tip blocked up 1-1/2”. . The covered side of the Wings should face up.  DO NOT GLUE UNTIL YOU HAVE A SET UP THAT WORKS.  I used modeling clay to prop up the Wing tips. It’s easy to adjust. When you have the set up that works, glue it together. Allow to dry thoroughly. Don't rush this.

MOTORSTICK
Note that the rear of the Motorstick is slanted. Later, you will glue the Stabilizer to this  slanted part . This makes the Stabilizer to fly at a different angle than the Wing. It is another angle that you must have, if the plane is to fly.

On some Motorsticks this slanted part is a bit rough, Clean it up with sand paper.

You can make a lighter and better flying plane by cutting away some of the bottom of the stick as shown on the plan. The dotted lines show the removed part.  Make sure you leave 2-1/4” of the slant for the Stabilizer.

ASSEMBLY
Find the center of the Stabilizer. (Hint the Stab is 6”) Scrape away a small bit of tissue on both the  trailing edge and the  leading edge here.  Glue the Stabilizer to the slanted part. Make sure it is straight  by sighting from the rear of the model. Put a weight on the stick until the glue sets. Glue the Fin to one side of the Motorstick. Cut a Trim Tab from the piece of the brown envelope and glue it to the rear of the fin.

Wrap each of the little rubber bands twice around the Motorstick. Slide one to each end.  Put the Wing on the top (the side without the slant) and roll the bands over the 4” long stick at the Dihedral Joint. Note you can now slide the Wing back and forth on the Motorstick. Adjust the Wing to someplace near the front of the Motorstick. A good place to start is with the leading edge 2-1/2” behind the nose of the plane.

Put a pin 4” from the back of the Motorstick as  Rear Hook for the rubber band.

Slide the Propeller Assembly onto the nose of the Motorstick. You may have to sand the top of the Motorstick down a bit to get it to fit.

Get someone to show you how to tie and lube the Rubber Motor at the class.

TRIMMING
This is much like the Delta Dart except the you don't use the glob of clay on the nose. If it stalls slide the wing back. If it dives slide it forward. I'll show you more the next session.

 !!ENJOY!!