THE JIMMIE WALKER CEILING WALKER
PAGE
Vol I
-o-
CONTAINING INFORMATION ABOUT THE
ORIGINAL
CEILING WALKERS & HOW TO BUILD
A REPLICA
A GENUINE 1950 AIR TRAILS PUFF PIECE
The picture of the lad in the suit and the following text was sent to me
by Al Lidberg. It is from a May 1950 Air Trails. I have edited the text
quite a bit. I'll post the whole thing in Vol II of the Ceiling Walker
stuff. Thank you Al!
& no it's not me in the pic.
TWICE a year a circus comes to New York. One is for the kiddies. You can see that at Madison Square Garden, with elephants, three rings, trapeze artists, clowns, and all. The other, if you happen to be in the fight business, is the annual toy show, held in a couple of the larger hotels which turn over numerous floors to exhibitors and buyers from all over America. .Of the two shows, the zaniest things last year took place on the seventh floor of the New Yorker Hotel, for the toy show had Jim Walker, the fabulous president of American Junior Aircraft Co.
To be sure, other model plane manufacturers have been represented for years at the toy show, but they are kit producers who display with decorum and book orders with dignity. Walker, who specializes in ready-to-fly stuff, was a one-man indoor air show, performing impartially for friends, casual visitors, buyers, reporters, and press photographers of the metropolitan dailies who somehow had heard of his man-from-Mars helmet and the sonicglider that answered its masters voice, But the gimmick that stole the show was a mere balsa strip, a bent-wood prop at either end, and a rubber-band motor between to make it perk. This was the Ceiling Walker, a frustrated helicopter.
Its antics in trying to escape skyward through the ceiling are what
make the kids whoop with joy. Spinning like a whirling dervish, the Ceiling
Walker pops up to the ceiling in an instant, then stays there like a fly
on an upside down stroll. It may "walk" all over the ceiling before it
winds down. Outdoors, it is a barrel of fun, especially if you get the
anti-torque prop slightly out of position. Then, the CW tears around like
a blindfolded duck. For its slight power it shames an r.o.g. when flown
as a
kind of push-pull what-is-it. What makes it work?
Well, first of all, the accompanying picture is better than a thousand
words of description. The prop at the lower end is the one that does the
work, being connected by the usual bearing and shaft to the rubber loop.
The prop at the top is what a Communist would describe as reactionary;
attached firmly to the stick with a rubber band, it simply turns the opposite
way. You wind the model, hold it out in front with the fixed prop pointing
at the ceiling, and let it rip. As the factory assembles the thing, it
wants to go straight up. But slide the dead prop along the stick and the
Ceiling Walker is as much fun as a puss with catnip.
MY "REPLICA" JIMMIE WALKER CEILING WALKER
I was talking with the folks on the Free Flight Mailing List about these and decided that we collectively knew enough for me to build a copy of one.
As soon as I had it built I had to try it out. With a 3/16" loop of TanII. it bounced on the ceiling just fine. So I turned on all the house lights, put in some hand winds (who heard of lube and winders in 1952? Not me) took it in the yard and set it free. It zorched up into the dark and tree branches, was gone for a few seconds and then tumbled out of the gloom.
The 3/16" rubber was over kill. So I put in a loop of 1/8 and slept fitfully, anticipating morning.
1st flite- I wound it up backawards and as I got tired of waiting for the rubber to unwind, I launched it upside down. On about 1/8th winds it wobbled around and came down on the porch roof. A simple ladder job.
2nd flite- I wound in a Buncha turns, walked out to the center
of the field and gave it it's freedom.
!! AMAZING!!
It climbed up into smallness, the propellors flashing in the sun and
drifted over the tree line into the neighbors field- About 1 min 25 sec.
The neighbor lady didn't come out and give me the lecture about her insurance
rates, but I didn't find it either. The boiled balsa matched the brown
twiggy field perfectly. I imagined it finding a future warm
dark home in the stomach of a cow. A little later I went back and there
it was. Thank you lost model elves.
--------o-------
Essentially it is two molded propellers, one Left handed and one Right
handed, on opposite ends of a motor stick. One is fixed to the stick and
the other is mounted the normal ROG way.
I made a little jig, kind of like the one on the Twin Pusher Construction
page and cut the blank out. This picture shows my early mold. I found it
works better if you construct the mold as shown below. It is probably best
to round the tips off after you mold the prop, the way you finish a carved
prop. I soakthe blanks for a few hours, then I put them in the mold and
nuked them in the microwave for 8 minutes with the power setting set
at 30%. If you don't turn down the power, the balsa will burn in a
couple of minutes. Trust me I know.
When they are dry you might color them with a yellow Magic Marker.
The soda bottle props the indoor guys like will probably work fine,
and if you color them yellow, you won't loose too many points.
I cut out the motor stick and glued a platform for the thrust bearing
on the bottom end, lashed and glued one of those little plastic Peck nose
button/bearing dinguses to this platform, bent me a prop shaft and threaded
it thru the button/bearing with a couple of washers/glass beads.
Color it red with a Magic Marker.
Next, I pressed the shaft into the wood of the prop,. pressed a scrap of balsa over the shaft and CAed the sandwich together. I bent the end of the wire over and bound it to the prop. I like to put a loop in this bend to make stretch winding easier. Recently I've been leaving out the loop and winding with the prop in a forklike stooge.
I bent an anchor for the other end of the rubber near but not at the uppermost end of the stick.. If you CA a pin, it'll work fine.
And affixed the other prop to the motor stick with a rubber band just
ahead of the hook. There should
be some motor stick protruding past this propeller. I don't know if this
is aerodynamically important, but if you fly it indoors, the stick will
keep the upper prop from banging against the ceiling. The Ceiling Walker
will bounce on the ceiling with this protrusion.
Figure out which way to wind it. Wind it that way and launch with the fixed prop facing up.
Dimensions (The sizes are just guesses conjured from 50 year old
memories. But they resulted in a flying Ceiling Walker. Thank you
Fred Rash)
Props 9-1/2" diam, Fairly hi pitch . 1/32" wood
Stick 12" long 1/8" x 3/16".
Leave 1-1/2" of motorstick protruding ahead of the fixed prop
Mount the rubber hook just under the fixed prop.
Rubber 14" of 1/8" tanII
Lower prop hook of 1/32" music wire
Upper motor hook 0.020" music wire.
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THE CORRECT ORIGINAL JIMMIE WALKER CEILING WALKER DIMENSIONS
Al Lidberg and friends have been been doing some research and
have an original Ceiling Walker to reverse engineer. What follows is a
highly edited version of some correspondence.
------------o------------
" Tom Schmitt sent a whole CW in the original package. It flew bit, but the props have flattened out too much. Steve Riley [here] has formed a couple of lower pitched props with boiled balsa and had one flying indoors last night.
Motor stick, without driver prop attached = 3/32" X 7/32" X 10" - purple dye
Both props = 8" dia X 1 5/32" wide X 1/20" thick - center is 1/2" wide.
Drive prop has red advisory notes - wind this way & which way is up / upper prop has blue stamped notes about how to attach & also which way is up.
Original blades have nice under camber.
CG without a motor is at 4" up from the thrust bearing end.
Upper hook is at 2" from end of the stick.
Upper prop is 1/4" up from hook (clever hook [staple with one long leg bent over] arrangement trapped a small rubber band to ensure proper location of upper prop).
AL
Steve Riley added
" The prop outline is as you said, basically a figure 8. Trace
the outline of a Peck prop and you would be very close. The pitch was all
but gone from the original so I carved a pair of blocks and
molded a pair of props. I guessed at about a 1.3 P/D ratio. Pitch =
1.3 x the diameter. Seems to work ok with a loop of 3/32 Tan II. To mold
the props, I boiled the blanks in water for 10
minutes and then taped them to the blocks and baked them for 30 minutes
at about 190 degrees F. Very little "pull back". Boiling the wood causes
them to discolor a bit. Maybe it's our wonderful
Arizona water.....
Recently I've been having better luck with B shaped props as opposed
to the 8 shaped ones. (d/s)
I really like this picture. Dick Baron sent it to me. It shows the original propeller assembly. I gather it is all that is left of his genuine Jimmie Walker Ceiling Walker. Note the clip for the motorstick. And if I remember correctly the prop shaft is curled and crimped to an aluminum plate on the prop hub.