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The window switches,
while not a work of art, work. I tried several schemes but this one works
the best. The photo shows the 2 micro switches, rated 15 amps each, the
levers, one not bent to the correct position yet, and the 2 stop pins and
spring. When turning the crank the spring contacts the stop so that the
switch has no real pressure on it, and I don't have to worry about the
window motor staying on, Also gives a positive feel to the crank. The
center pin is welded to the crank gear, the spring brazed to the pin. The mechanism
started off as the original regulator, which I cut off, except for the
crank. |
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The shift indicator
was made by making the graphics on my computer then printing on plain
paper. I then glued it face up to a sheet of clear acetate, then taped off
the window on the other side of the acetate and sprayed the rest red.
2 LED's illuminate the shifter at night and are seen in the photo. Also
adds that soft glow that looks cool at night. |
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I used 3 rolls of 4x6
foot insulation as shown in roof. I put it under the cab, in the cab,
roof, engine hood, and fire wall. It's remarkable the noise reduction AND
the engine hood stays cool (maybe the paint will last longer). I no longer
can warm my hands on the firewall after driving awhile. Good thing I
installed the heater. |
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Photo shows finished interior. I put the door
seal on the body. It made for a much better seal, and I think looks
better. The stock seal was way to fat, there was no way the door was going
to shut. So I got a 3/8 surefit seal at the swap meet that had a adhesive
backing. This worked extremely well and I highly recommend it. With the
door shut it also fills the gap, making for a quieter ride while cruising
down the highway. |
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Photo from right side |
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Stock ML320 regulator and motor before (left)
after (right) and installed, (below). The pictures basically tell the
story, hard part is positioning regulator on the door so that only one set
of mounting holes need to be drilled. |
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