Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge
Chincoteague Island, Virginia
October 19 ~ 24, 2000

Chincoteauge National Wildlife Refuge by Ron Lutz II  

Chincoteague Island is a Mid-Atlantic Barrier Island protecting the mainland of Virginia. It's filled with miles of soft, sandy beaches, lush marshes, and tidal flats -- perfect feeding spots for countless egrets, herons, shorebirds, songbirds and waterfowl. In short, Chincoteague Island is bird heaven. On our drive across the bridge, Great Egrets, Snowy Egrets, Great Blue and Little Blue Herons dotted the marshes like so many Cattails. It took all of my husband's concentration from veering off the bridge when I poked his arm with excitement.

Our destination, the Cedar Gables Seaside Inn, was a beautiful oasis overlooking Little Oyster Bay. From our balcony, we saw miles of lush green marshes filled with Black-crowned Night Herons, squeaking Boat-tailed Grackles, plunging Belted Kingfishers and an American Bittern swaying in the grass. One flock of Canada Geese flew so low and close, we swore they would careen straight into our suite. Later that evening, we walked along the boardwalk to our private dock to stargaze. As we approached the end, the guttural croaks and swooshing wing-beats of a Great Blue Heron broke the darkened stillness. The faint "peeps" of unseen migrating birds and water lapping at the bulkheads also filled the moonlit night.

Moonlight by Ron Lutz II

In a cheery sunroom, we filled our mornings with fresh java and delicious gourmet breakfasts while watching American Goldfinches and House Finches gorge on seeds and Carolina Wrens rummaging through the shrubs. One morning, while gazing out the window, I saw a Carolina Wren tussle with what I had assumed was another Carolina -- until I noticed a very long tail edged with white corners. Hmm, no wren I knew had white corners. My napkin literally fell from my lap when I jumped across the room. The bird had a gray belly, long beige supercillium, and plain wings. Could it be a Bewick's? In my excitement I couldn't remember the bird's entire range, but I knew one thing. I had wanted to see this species when I was out west. This bird was way east!

Bewick's Wren by John Dorsey

"Imagine that," I said aloud. John smiled: "That's wonderful honey. Just try to relax and enjoy this incredible breakfast. It's fresh clam straight from the bay. I saw the innkeeper bring them back this morning." I turned to two inn guests who gave me short, cordial smiles. I tried explaining what a rarity the bird was. I pointed out the features and said that I should call the local rare bird alert. They asked what that was. I did some explaining and elaborated on what could possibly happen when word got out about the rarity. "Bird watchers knocking at the door and lining up on the dock? Breaking this tranquility?" the woman said. What could I do. From her perspective, she certainly had a point. So, I sat and sipped coffee, adding up the lovely field marks one by one. O.k. so the odds were stacked, but what an incredible, unexpected birthday gift. I enjoyed every minute of it.

Ghost Crab by Ron Lutz II

Later in the day --- after a spectacular morning -- we strolled the beach and spotted hundreds of ghost crabs scuttling along the surface. These translucent white crabs blend in so well with the sand and fog. They are a marvel to watch as they scale sideways and down into to their large, angled tunnels. We laid on our stomachs, pressing our faces close to the sand to get close-up views of these odd creatures with extraterrestrial eyes. There were hundreds of them busily foraging for sand fleas or bigger morsels like bees.

 Old Forest by Ron Lutz II

Sure, we spent time on the beach, enjoying Caspian, Common, and Foster's Terns and Ruddy Turnstones in their fall regalia. However, our most regular destination was the Wildlife Loop, a 3-½ mile stretch in the refuge. We spent many hours observing dowitchers, yellowlegs, and sandpipers feeding along muddy banks and songbirds along the Woodlands Trail in the Old Forest. We also relished sightings of a rare Delmarva Fox Squirrel and little Sika Deer.

Throughout our trip, birders we met would talk about how late the Snow Geese were. Normally, they would have arrived by late September. Oh, how I wanted to see their undulating lines in the distant sky. How I wanted to hear their honking cacophony. How I wanted to see their black and white wings against a blue sky before touching down in Snow Goose Pool.  

Snow Geese, great flocks of them, were the reason for me being at Chincoteague in the first place. I figured they would make a fine birthday present. Don't get me wrong, I wasn't complaining. I had watched a Tri-colored Heron mantling its dark gray wings like Count Dracula. I had wanted to see a male or female Wood Duck and, lo and behold, the first bird sighting at the refuge was a fleeting glimpse of a female Wood Duck. But oh, how I wanted to see the Snow Geese.

Miraculously, the day before our leaving, in the far northwest sky, a long undulating line appeared. As it got closer there was no mistaking it -- Snow Geese, hundreds of them! Soon the air filled with their crazy honking. People stopped and raised their smiling faces to watch the geese fly over Swan Cove, bank leeward, then swoop up and around and head for their winter home -- Snow Goose Pool.

Snow Geese by Tom Conelly

The excitement spread. Die-hard birders and otherwise casual tourists trotted towards Snow Goose Pool. As we approached, hundreds and hundreds of geese began dropping from the sky. So exhausted were they from their migration that the moment after they skidded into the pool they tucked their heads beneath their wings and fell asleep. All went eerily quiet. Then it happened again: a great skein of Snow Geese, loud honking, the braking of pink webbed feet amidst a jumble of black and white. Faint rumbles. Then stillness.

The second best thing to seeing the Snow Geese was my husband's official inauguration into the birding world. Until Chincoteague Island, he would often join me on my bird outings to "keep me company." Sure, he would bird, but mostly he was interested in viewing nature from an aesthetic viewpoint and capturing it on videotape. However, during our trip, John turned into a bona fide birder. It happened during our second walk along the Wildlife Loop.

We had stopped to chat with an elderly couple sitting on a bench. They were talking about the famous Chincoteague ponies. John cut them off as he excitedly pointed behind them: "There's a woodpecker. There, look over there. It has a moustache. I think it's a… Oh, my gosh. Look at it in the sunlight. Ya' have to look now."

Northern Flicker by John Robbins

John bobbed like an excited owl while the couple spoke non-stop about their experiences with the Chincoteague ponies. It took all of me to keep a straight face while they waxed about the loveliness of the horses. I burst out laughing after we said our good-byes. "What? What's the matter?" he asked.

"Oh, boy. You've been bitten by the birding bug, big time. You didn't hear a darn word those two were saying. You really lost it when you spotted the woodpecker. Oh, and by the way, that was a Northern Flicker."

"I wasn't acting crazy," he said, although he looked a bit puzzled. A few moments later, he rushed past me and down the boardwalk: "Look, I think it's…" We laughed, it was a bone-dried snag sticking up from the marsh.

At dusk, while we were sipping wine on our balcony and I was perusing my field guides, John leaned back and said contentedly: "So this is what happens. You bird until the last bit of light and then you might think about eating dinner, hah?"

"Yeah, that's just one of things that happens," I said grinning.

____________________________________________

Bird Species Seen at Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge
Chincoteague Island, Virginia
October 19 ~ 24, 2000

~ Snow Goose, Canada Goose, Mute Swan, Wood Duck, Gadwall, American Wigeon, American Black Duck, Mallard, Northern Shoveler, Blue-winged Teal, Green-winged Teal, Redhead, Canvasback, Long-tailed Duck,
~ Brown Pelican
~ Double-crested Coromorant
~ Great Blue Heron, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Little Blue Heron, Tri-colored Heron
~ Unidentified Shearwater
~ Northern Harrier, Red-shouldered Hawk, Red-tailed Hawk, Bald Eagle, Peregrine Falcon, Turkey Vulture
~ Greater Yellowlegs, Lesser Yellowlegs, Short-billed & Long-billed Dowitcher, Willet, Sanderling, Dunlin, Ruddy Turnstone
~ American Oystercatcher
~ Ring-billed Gull, Laughing Gull, Herring Gull, Great Black-backed Gull
~ Caspian Tern, Common Tern, Forster's Tern
~ Rock Pigeon & Mourning Dove
~ Belted Kingfisher
~ Red-bellied Woodpecker, Yellow-bellied Sapsucker, Downy Woodpecker, Hairy Woodpecker, Northern Flicker
~ Blue Jay, American Crow, Fish Crow
~ Barn Swallow, Tree Swallow
~ Black-capped Chickadee, Tufted Titmouse
~ White-breasted Nuthatch
~ Brown Creeper
~ Carolina Wren, Bewick's Wren (vagrant)
~ Eastern Kingbird, Great-crested Flycatcher
~ American Robin
~ Gray Catbird, Northern Mockingbird, Brown Thrasher
~ European Starling
~ Common Yellowthroat, Northern Waterthrush
~ Northern Cardinal
~ Eastern Towhee, Savannah Sparrow, Song Sparrow, White-throated Sparrow
~ Red-winged Blackbird, Rusty Blackbird, Boat-tailed Grackle, Common Grackle, Brown-headed Cowbird
~ Purple Finch, House Finch, American Goldfinch
~ House Sparrow

"I rejoice that there are owls."
Henry Thoreau

 

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