First a little background. At the time I was considering F.I. I had a 2017 with 40x37 heads and 44 Berg DCNF Webers that was quite fun and responsive. But like most gear heads I had to HAVE MORE!!!! I had picked up (Scored! is more a accurate term) a used Berg 84 mm crank in pristine shape complete with a case, rods, sump and a few other bits. Hmmmm, the wheels start turning.

   I had had several conversations with Gene about F.I. and he was always extolling its virtues. I am sure that if your reading this you have probably read his tech stuff, too, so I won't repeat it. If you haven't read it, Do! Saves me from having to repeat, which I probably won't. I also had ridden in his Vanagon and was duly impressed with the power and drivability. I also did a little more shopping around and looked at some other offering which included stopping in at CB Performance and looking at their stuff. Obviously I chose Berg. Don't get me wrong , CB's is a decent piece and they have a lot of good tech available, just not the way I chose to go.

   Next step was send my heads in for port work, bigger valves, and match porting the manifolds. Told ya I wanted more. The heads got the make over to 44x37 with the moved spark plug and Clyde did his first set of heads with long reach (3/4") 14 mm plugs. The heads were also set up to take Chevy size valve springs, oh, ooh! And I ordered the Haltech F9A with the optional trim pot, for what I really didn't know, yet.

  Now  we slide into the car prep work for the requirements of F.I.

  I only did two minor modifications to the tank. I plugged one extra vent line that went to the evaporation system. And the other was I made a slightly larger fuel tank outlet tube out of 3/8" steel tubing so the filter inlet hose size would match between the tank and the filter I used.

  There is a couple of other ways of doing the return line. It can be added in the bottom of the tank by welding a bung or a tube in. On a gas door bug, you could add a return line to the fuel filler elbow pretty easily and the fire danger drops drastically if you take it out to do it, DOH!!! And the final way, on a older car's tank is putting one in the filler neck. My preference would  still be the tank bottom 'cuz the fuel line routing is easiest and neatest. On my Notch I'm looking at grafting in a 10" circle cut out of the bottom of a T3 F.I. tank into the early tank. This will give me all the factory stuff and filler neck will be correct for the early body.

  I used what the Bergs recommended for volume, it is a Bosch F.I. pump and I believe it fits a turbo Volvo.  Whatever pump you use there should be a check valve after the pump. A lot of pumps have this built in and some have them in the banjo bolt for the pump outlet. This will keep the injectors pressurized so your engine starts easier. You can use any pump that will maintain enough flow and pressure for you horsepower output. Horsepower equals a required amount of fuel and you will need to balance all the fuel system parts to allow delivery of said fuel, or you won't get the power, the engine will lean out and that can lead to engine failure.  Don't scrimp on flow or it will bite you. See my link to fuel injector flows for more info.

  I put a fuel filter before the pump and I may some day put one after it. If you chose to put one after the pump, make sure that it is rated for the fuel pressure!!! I believe all filters that fall in this category are metal cased and have tube fittings of some type on them. You can graft in a surge tank out of a Golf or something of similar function if you feel the need.

  Here's your other options as I see them. 1) You can use the stock fuel line for a return and just add one new line. This may not be large enough on larger fuel systems.  2) You can run two new lines.  Now where to run the lines? You can run them in the tunnel, which is the best idea and most difficult. You can put them under the car,  a good solution but I wouldn't use hose there, (yes, you can use hose, more on that later) due to possible damage. Or lastly, thru the interior. Don't cringe, it's not a bad idea if you use steel and the tech inspectors don't notice, {;-) , and if you're not a racer,.......... well, it's your call. One other note. I would not use copper, it can and does break. Not good with 40 psi of raw fuel pressure.

  These items can and will vary with the system you are using so do your research and then your planning and layout accordingly. I chose maybe the Biggest and Baddest throttle bodies around. As you can see in the background they have two injectors and a fuel distribution tube on them. The red part is a factory F.I. Bug part and works just fine. For really big power engines you may need to go with fuel rails. These stock parts fit nicely and I didn't have to fabricate anything, perfect for me. 

  BEWARE!!! Berg TBs are not for the weak at heart or mind!!! They are quite high on the difficult to install scale and I don't think it is humanely possibly to bolt the 3/4 side in without a large window cut in the side of your engine compartment. And I have bent several wrenches to various shapes to get at the #3 nut  with some decrease in the degree of difficulty. A MOST HORRIBLE JOB. So If you have a beautiful early car, these may not be for you unless you can hack it out like a REAL MAN!! Note! It's just been confirmed that the TBs CAN be installed without cutting holes, a better person than me has done it!! Congratulations "Bergboy" Aaron!

  You will also be needing a fuel pressure regulator. I used a stock T1 fuelie pressure regulator. Why? 'cuz I had one laying around. There are others that have two inlets and one outlet, I went the simple route.  The regulator will keep constant pressure in the fuel ring ( a fuel ring is the plumbing on the engine, it makes kinda a "ring") common to the injectors. The regulator should be somewhat matched in its pressure set point to the injectors you are using so your flow figures are real. The F.I. bug regulator has one inlet and one outlet and will mount on the forward right sheet metal. Mine is in the hole where the backup light wire went thru to the tranny, plugged the hole nicely.  It has an adjustment on it to set the pressure, how much range of adjustment I don't know. The regulators out of T2s will also work quite well, might even be the same part but never checked the part numbers.

  I mounted my MAP sensor, No, not for GPS and finding the local 7/11, but a manifold (or atmospheric) absolute pressure sensor. It is hanging under the lip at the top left of the engine compartment. It can go anywhere and is either vented to the atmosphere or to a manifold via a small hose. That will be determined by your system requirements. It also requires wiring to it. Mine has a GM plug on it and is easy to work with, more under wiring on that. A different sensor is used for a turbo installation than what is used for an atmospheric engine.

  The TBs may also have a throttle position sensor, TPS, mine does and so do a lot of others. This is used as a load sensor. This works rather well when you are using radical cams (compared to V8s) and you are getting a very low vacuum signal . Speaking of vacuum signal, the vacuum port on the fuel pressure regulator is tee'd to two intake runners , 2 & 4, on my Bug to ensure enough signal to make it operate.  And of course, the TPS also requires wires and again, mine has GM connectors.

  An air temperature sensor is used to get the air temp for the brain to compensate for air temperature changes. This helps keep the air/fuel mixture correct under widely varying conditions. Mine is mounted in the #3 velocity stack in a location that does not disturb the flow. It sticks into the air stream about a 1/4". I chose #3 'cuz it was the easiest to get the wiring to. Yes, wiring required.

  There is a coolant temperature sensor that I have located in the air stream coming off the 3/4 head. This gives the brain a reference of engine temp and the brain adjusts the mixture  to the temp requirements. Again keeping the mixture correct whether the engine is cold or at operating temp. The brain is adjusted for cold start enrichment and you also adjust its fuel enrichment taper to suit.  Naturally, wiring required.

  I located the O2 sensor in the exhaust in the merge about  3" from the flange. Not all systems have this so do what you need here. I also put 2 more "bungs" in the dual muffs to give me a bit more flexibility and allows me to run two O2 sensors at once, one for the brain and another stand alone system as a tuning aid if needed. It does help and speeds up the tuning. You could just hang the stand alone sensor on a piece of baling wire and stuff it in the tail pipe. Whatever works for you. The  Haltech wiring loom was about 4 ft. too short for this item.

  The Haltech wire loom as furnished by Haltech fits like $h*t in a VW. It probably fits a Chevelle really well. I don't know how the rest of the stuff is on the market but I can venture a guess that the odds of anybody's loom (except the VW specific CB loom, maybe) is a V8/snow mobile/truck/anything-but-a-VW-fitting loom. These are custom cars we're working on so don't expect a perfect fit 'cuz I doubt that the wiring designer ever saw your car or has ESP. I completely rebuilt my Haltech loom so it met my standards of fit and function. If anybody wants to know what my standards are, I wire jet airplanes for a living and check with the F.A.A.. The landing gear doesn't retract when you hit the cabin attendants call button when I'm done.

  Now that I have intentionally lowered your expectations a few notches, I hope, you will need a few tools to do some minor changes. One of the nice things about the Haltech system and a few others is they use widely available GM sensors. Which  means that the connectors are also readily available. So if you want to change the location of a sensor or you put one where the wiring won't reach, you will probably be in luck. I have been able to get the tools, contacts, and most replacement connectors at my local NAPA auto parts store. A GM dealer should also be a source for parts, and of course, the local wrecking yard will be a very good source for cheap parts.

   I located all the bits and pieces where they needed to be and then started making the wiring fit. A little note here. If you can get the engine on a dyno, you will need the wiring and all other parts to make it run. Either do this before you do all the wiring in the car or make your wiring loom removable IF you ever foresee using a dyno. Or make a second loom that will work out of the car. Your call on that one. A chassis dyno sounds really kool here.

   The supplier of your system SHOULD be giving you a wire diagram and a parts list. With out either you will be spending a lot of time needlessly if you ever have a problem. The replacement part numbers should be ones that you local auto parts store can go from. I have yet see any after market supplier make their own sensors or injectors. I know a couple of manufacturers are using their own number system so you have to go to them for replacements, not acceptable in my book. One other thing in passing while we are on this subject. The reliability of all the components, other than the brains, are more than acceptable. How long would Ford or GM be in biz if their small parts failed regularly. The Federal Government has given us some help in this respect with countless laws.

  For those of you looking at a Haltech system and you like what I did with mine, I did make a full scale drawing of my wire loom. If you want yours to look and fit like mine, I can do that. I use the original loom and hack it up and make the required changes for it to fit. I can do some changes to it to so it is compatible to your ignition system and charging system. I use a new sleeveing material that is almost indestructible and much more flexible than automotive type materials. It is silicone coated nomex sleeving as used in the aerospace biz. Best stuff I have found and it is easily cleaned, impervious to damn near anything. Contact me for further info.