abraxasaudio
Loftin-White 1626
"Darling"


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UPDATED! 8/2006
Schematic updated 5/2007
(Some) Pictures updated 9/2009

I changed the final PS filter cap to the input stage from
a 500V type to a vintage NOS 600V type.
I added a power on LED indicator to the front panel.
All new pictures are posted.
Input tubes changed to NOS RCA's.

More NEW stuff:
Although the small-value (10uf) electro's bypassing the output cathode are just fine
I added some nice Polycarb film as additional bypass.
We noticed a definite improvement in overall smoothness.
No pix of this change, sorry.


Here is the final version of an amp I've been working on for two years.
It's been through several revisions, as it lived on a wooden breadboard all this time.
Needless to say, it got played a lot.


Original breadboard overview.

I finally built it into a chassis because I promised to bring it to the GPAF show this May (2006).
At the show, this amp in combination with Bob's great speakers proved to be a real hit.


Clear-coated natural light oak panels.

This amp incorporates a true Loftin-White (LW) configuration.
Please write to me if you are interested in making one, but don't get me started on the LW subject!
Some folks make amps that are called LW but in truth are not.
Others have duplicated the original LW which is not entirely suitable for high end audio.
THIS amp follows a middle ground, incorporating the bias stability features and direct coupling of the original, while eliminating or altering those parts of the original suitable only for radio signal detection and gain control.
Bottom line is there is no true LW suitable for hi-fi unless these changes are made.

The amp uses nearly 500V at the B+ and over 400V to the driver tube. Your regular 5Y3 won't cut it in this circuit, and the 5R4 was chosen. Extra high-voltage power supply capacitors were constructed by series connecting lower voltage ones to ensure long term safety and reliability (there are not many 600V caps around suitable for this service). The caps are paralleled with 100k bypass resistors that act as voltage stabilizers for the caps and bleed discharge after turn off.

In the requirement of a true LW, a tetrode input tube was selected; in this case the 6EV5. It is biased for most linear operation with a slight bent to complement the output tube characteristic. The tetrode receives its screen grid stabilization from the cathode of the output tube and its plate is direct coupled to the output tube grid. The amp will work correctly with any 6EV5 (in the spirit of the original LW), but due to the power disappation considerations of the 1626 output tube, a user adjustable output bias was incorporated by means of adjustment at the input tube cathode. The 6EV5 heaters are DC operated for low noise.


Solid hard oak interior supports.
High-quality NEW and NOS parts used throughout.

The output tubes are 1626, the so-called "Darling" tube and the output stage makes about 750mW power per channel. The output trannys are vintage RCA with both 8 and 4 ohm taps.

So what about the sound?
I've built a number of Darling type amps, and played them on many speakers. I find these amps to sound (what I call) "delicate". They have soft fingers that lightly reveal the inner workings of the music. Even the bass is breathed with detail that some more powerful amps seem to gloss over. In general the Darling has a slightly "warm" character. It is this delicate touch that I appreciate about Darling amplifiers. In this Loftin-White version, everything has a more solid feel than my previous Darlings. The lower bass is tighter and overall response is more extended; the imaging a bit sharper without losing the depth the Darling is famous for. Perhaps the DC coupling is involved with that. Playing on Bob's FB-16s, the solid bass added just the right touch to that fine speaker, giving just the right balance when played below the point where the room itself plays too much a part in the experience. Know what I mean?



Amp at GPAF May, 2006.


abraxasaudio(at)att(dot)net

Schematic
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Actual size is standard paper.