How do I install ratlines?

My current practice is to install the masts without the yards but including any masthead platforms. After installing the shrouds in a prototypical manner, I use the "smallest" gauge needle I can lay my hands on to sew the ratlines through the shrouds. In any reasonable scale the prototypical knots will be virtually invisible if you are using appropriately sized thread. After the tedious sewing job is done I brush a semi-gloss black enamel to simulate the tarred seizing of the shrouds. This also cements the ratlines into place permanently, so make any needed adjustments before reaching for the paintbrush!

Stretching the thread and soaking it with a thin wash of white glue and letting it dry will stiffen it, which may be an advantage (but real ratlines were not straight -- they hung in curves between the shrouds).
{John Bonnett}

Here are some things I have picked up over the years.

Most shroud/ratline jigs, or preformed shroud/ratline sets, don't really work all that well. It is very hard to get uniform tension when installing them. Go for true, independent shrouds and ratlines.

Get a book on rigging - several books on model ships in my local library have sections on rigging.

Tools -

Several sets of tweezers, including; long set, and "normally closed" ones.
A hook. Something like a crochet hook (I make my own out of coat hanger wire, pound the end flat and file in the hook).
A fork, about same length as hook, made same way.

Both hook and fork should be six to eight inches long.

Work sessions. Do not work too long at any one time, even when more experienced. If I have not been doing ship rigging for awhile, I limit myself to 1/2 hour sessions. Never more than one hour at a time.

Simplify rigging. For a novice, concentrate on standing rigging. If you are not going to be adding sails, the ship would appear as in port, or at anchor for an extended period. One can then omit much of the running rigging. If you do a fair job at the standing rigging, adding just a minimal running rigging can result in a very nice looking model.

One problem on plastic models is that you cannot put as much tension as you might like on lines. So getting even tension is important. However, if you look at photos of sailing ships in their day, only navy ships were all square and nice. Masts were really askew on many merchant ships. So if your masts look more like corkscrews, just claim it is prototypical.
{Don Stauffer}

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