How do I apply gold leaf to ship model parts?

I used to use gold leaf, but now find that I can get equivalent results using the ink from a Pilot Gold Marker (available at stationary and craft stores). Just put a drop or two of the ink on a glass surface (palette), and then brush it onto the model's part.

It's a good idea to gild as many parts as possible before they're attached to the model.

No matter if you're using gold leaf, gold paint, or gold ink, proper preparation of the working surface is important -- especially the under-color! A red or red-brown surface under the gold will produce a more brilliant surface to the gold than, say, a blue or black.

Make sure the under surface (and neighboring surfaces) are dry! If still tacky, clean up will be much harder!
{John O. Kopf}

Some good advice here. A couple of things though. Gold leafing is just as difficult as painting because you must be just as precise with the application of the adhesive. As with any paint line, the gold will show sharp to the adhesive. Moreover, in small intricate carving it is imperative to keep the adhesive as thin as possible or you will get chunks and clumps in your fine lines.

Forget the water method for this application unless you are working on a huge scale and have had considerable practice. Besides, it would be hard to find burnishing tools fine enough for this kind of work.

Imitation gold leaf may be too thick to use effectively; depending on the size and detail of the parts. For smaller, more intricate pieces, real gold will work better and be easier to apply, once you get used to its fragility. Caution: if the surrounding paint, and or glue, is not absolutely cured the gold will adhere to it.

Regardless of the material, you will probably need to top coat it to achieve uniformity of gloss to the rest of the ship. Gold tends to be bright. Do the entire piece at one time, again I'm talking small parts, use a piece large enough to just cover the piece. I have found that blowing on the gold as I lay it into the piece helps to lessen the inevitable cracks you get as the gold lays into detail. (careful to blow dry air)

On the first application, just dab--gingerly--the gold into the detail. Then you may leave enough adhesive to hold a second application of gold, which should be done immediately and before any heavy burnishing with the brush. While I agree with the dab of Vaseline tip in principle, It is probably a technique better left to large pieces.

Here is the thing to realize with any second application. The gold will want to split and crack in the same places it did the first time. So, you need to apply any subsequent pieces of gold with a smaller size, and lay it at a different angle from the first, or you will probably not completely cover the original cracks.

And remember, just like paint, and as the adhesive is as thick, if not thicker than paint, every coat will build up and obscure detail.It may take practice and patience--like everything else about this hobby--but gold leaf will always look better than any paint possibly could.Speaking of paint: An undercoat of gold/yellow paint will help to fill in those cracks, but you will see it, if not now, then eventually, Okay for a picture frame but...
{Jim Sales}

Ok, this one isn't that hard.

There are two types, Real gold (24K) and gold colored (Al).

Obviously the real gold is much more expensive.

Tool list:

( all tools and leaf is found at craft stores ) The leaf comes in books, there are about 25-50 leafs in a book.

The idea is to paint a small area with the sizing , using a static brush charge the brush on your sweater , this will then pick the leaf off it's backing, lay on the size perpared area, let stand until you can use a soft brush to pull away the loose leaf and keep the waste in a little box, it's still usable.

It's time consuming but not as hard as one might think, just don't stress over it as you can clean a bad area with little effort.

Last, there is a sealing coat you could apply but sometimes it clouds the gold. If it's going in a case I wouldn't worry about it.
{Mark Bethke}

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