Note: This question now consolidates two prior questions about dioramas.
I've seen some beautiful dioramas on occasion, of ships under
full sail. I'm curious how these are generally done. Are the
models used usually waterline models set in a resin sea? Is
it possible (or practical) to have one's cake and eat it too; i.e.
build a full hull model and set it into a premolded bed of resin
so that it could be removed and displayed in the traditional
manner?
{Wolff Garritano}
I saw that done once. The only problem being that the diorama was
so inclusive that the ship was very small. It left me with the feeling
that it was hardly worth the trouble. Mind you that I am not talking
about the quality of miniature ships that are out there...rather a
"pretty much looks like" model that filled a space in the diorama.
Another thing is setting the ship in a case with the waterline and
above being completely finished while the below waterline portions
were unplanked. Many times the display case has a wooden
separation at the water line, giving the viewer the sense that he is
seeing the model in X-ray form. Very impressive but again here the
secret is in the manufacture of the case.
{Mickey Martelle}
I have made several ship dioramas and I must say that generally I
make the hulls waterline (or a little lower to allow for listing etc.) but
I have done some that were set into a Plexiglas sheet that I made to
look like the water's surface and then the underwater parts of the hull
can be seen. Unusual, effective, I get a lot of good remarks on those,
but I still prefer waterline for dioramas.
{Bob Santos}
I will tell you what I am going to try on my current project.
I stress try because I have not done this yet.
I purchased a piece of rippled plastic from a surplus store. It is the
type of thing you see on office dividers or bathroom windows. It has
a ripple pattern similar to that you might expect of waves with a full
breeze.
I plan to cut a hole in the plastic the shape of the hull, drop the hull in
(at the appropriate heel), and fix the hull in place. Paint the "water"
appropriately, and add a little bit of resin around the joint, and -- in
theory -- what I should have is a plane representing the surface of
the water. This should allow a viewer to see a diorama of the ship
wearing from above, and the hull when viewed from the side.
I don't yet know how it will work, but have high hopes. I have an extra
hull of the model I am building (thanks to my dog, who chewed up the
original) and plan to use the ruined hull (all the damage is above the
waterline) to make sure I have the hole cut right. It's an ill wind. . .
{Mark Lardas}
Your rippled plastic should work fine! One of our club members uses
it all the time. One of his dioramas depicted a sunken ship and a
salvage vessel hovering over it. It looked pretty good.
{Dana McCalip}
If you go the full-hull route, you might want to consider wrapping the
hull in saran-wrap while you're fitting it to the water...the saran-wrap
will help prevent sticking to the water medium; I assume you want to
remove the hull again later?
{John O. Kopf}
I read with interest an article in the December 1996 issue of FineScale
Modeler about making "waves" as a display technique using plastic
fluorescent light covers. May be just what you're looking for.
{Tim Jovick}
I have found plastic sheet with a very good look of real water. It is
intended for the "stained glass" trade. Normal rippled Plexiglas is too
regular in it's ripple to look real. The other alternative is to surface the
Plexiglas (either rippled or plain) with Acrylic Gel Medium, available at
all art and crafts stores.
{Bob Santos}
I have seen two dioramas that I think were really unique.
The first was a shipwreck on a sandy beach. Looked like the builder
wrecked the hull minus most of the rigging... different.
Also saw a Cutty Sark built into the display area as I was told
it was displayed in England. Built the stepped area (drydock?) out of
styrofoam and added landscaping via model RR trees, etc. I agree
that rippled water makes for a nice X-ray (?) type diorama that you
can see under the water(?).
{Bob Cunningham}
A few years ago I visited the Fisheries Museum in Nova Scotia --
upstairs they have these models, sitting in acrylic sheet representing
the surface of the water, and they showed various methods of
catching fish using nets, drags etc. by having the lines going into the
"water" and down below the "waterline", i.e., the acrylic sheet.
Sometimes it's nice to see models like this that tell a story, show the
action in a scene, rather than just sitting up there on pedestals saying
"Here I am, aren't I beautiful". Nice for a change of pace, anyways,
and gets one's attention.
{Rick Fortenberry}
I must come out of my lurking corner for this one. Is a ship model on
a water base considered a diorama? I build 1/600 Civil War ironclads
and they just don't look right if they are on brass pegs. Acrylic gel is
a much nicer way of displaying them. To my mind this is not a
diorama. If I were to add another ship, say the Monitor/Virginia,
then that would tell a story and I would say would be a diorama. One
ship doing its thing in the water? Hmmmm, no.
I bring this up because of some contest rules I have encountered.
{Matthew Burchette}
What constitutes a diorama is a real good question and probably can
have any number of answers which all could be considered valid.
In my opinion and this is really subjective, a diorama must tell a
story and show a certain amount of action! A ship model sitting in
a plastic or plaster of paris sea represents a ship sitting in its natural
element; that is all. The Wisconsin Maritime Museum hosts an
annual competition and has a diorama category. In order to put a
model in this category there has to be evidence that the scene
portrays action and is something more than a vessel riding at anchor
or simply cruising.
Again, this is only one groups interpretation of what a diorama should
be and I am sure there could many arguments to the contrary. The
museum's whole idea is to encourage creativity from the diorama
entrants.
{Dana McCalip}
Interestingly, this definition is not consistent with any given in
Webster's. In fact, it is in itself contradictory, since a vessel
"simply cruising" is indeed portraying "action". Is an anchored
yacht rolling in a rough sea a diorama? Certainly there is action
portrayed. Is a ship anchored in calm water but with crew members
posed in various attitudes and accomplishing various tasks a
diorama? A sailor hauling in a line or the cook throwing garbage
overboard are certainly depictions of specific actions.
Like Dana, I suspect that there are many definitions of what
constitutes a "diorama". For me, a model portrayed in its natural
element (water) constitutes a diorama, albeit a simple one. I've done
a number of projects which depict abandoned boats pulled up along
the shore, half sunk, and in various stages of deterioration. There is
certainly no action portrayed, but the viewer can certainly imagine all
sorts of things leading up to the scene. They do, in fact, tell a story
of sorts. I guess my point here is that, unless you are concerned
about competing in a specific event, why worry about what your
creation is called? If it makes you happy and is appreciated by
others (and clients buy them :-)...), what does it matter?
{Al Ross}
Your are correct. The terms "at anchor" and "cruising" are mine and
were probably a poor choice of wording. For a number of years the
Wisconsin (formerly known as Manitowoc) Maritime Museum ship
model contest was overrun with waterline models plopped down in
a sea of plaster, rippled plex, and acrylic gel and that's all. In order
to more clearly define the term and to promote more creativity among
the entrants the contest guidelines called for the vessel to be doing
something. Scudding along under storm canvass, coming up to an
anchor buoy or in the process of sinking, etc., etc., are examples of
what the museum calls "telling a story" etc. Waterline models
entered on just a simulated water base are put in the same category
with models mounted on cradles or pedestals. This rule evolved
over the years and so far there have been no complaints. Again, this
is not to say that this is the only proper way to qualify dioramas but
is just one institutions way of handling it.
{Dana McCalip}
In my opinion a diorama is much more than a ship (or anything else)
in a setting. I picture it being exactly that a picture. Imagine you being
in a hot air balloon passing over an active cove that has a ship on
the ways, a couple leaving for fishing duties, a few houses, a kid
fishing off the dock, streets, dogs, general store, etc. Then model it
all to scale and viola you have a true diorama. In short the ship is
merely one object in a much larger overview. Many scenes in model
railroad layouts are actually dioramas.
{Mickey Martelle}
If a "Diorama" shows action and / or interaction between different
objects, what is a good name for the "ship on the water" type of model
display that started this whole issue (i.e., one that does not "qualify"
as a diorama; just a boat on water)?
{John O. Kopf}
I haven't got a copy of the contest rules handy, but I believe that IPMS
qualifies such as "model on base."
{John Snyder}
How about "Ship at sea" or "ship at anchor" a "fleet of ships" etc. The
point being the type of model could be like an artist painting in which
the title usually tells the viewer that which he or she is looking at.
{Mickey Martelle}
If you intended diorama involves anything in addition to the ship and
water, Kalmbach publishing has several books for the railroad
modeler on "scenery"; these have a lot of useful tips.
{John O. Kopf}
As you may have gathered by now, there are lots of ways to simulate
water and waves. In scales like 1:350 that the plastic modelers use the
techniques are very different than in scales that wooden model builders
use. For the plastic techniques, check out books and articles written by
Shephard Paine (I think that's the spelling) which are available from
Kalmbach Books and FineScale Modeler Magazine.
For wooden scales (isn't Taurus 1:87? - I thought it was advertised for
HO train layouts), here is my method:
First, get hold of some color photos of tugboats (or whatever craft you
are modeling) moving along through the sea. Note the shape and color
of the ocean, the bow wave, the trough behind the bow wave, and the wake.
This is what you are trying to reproduce.
After selecting your baseboard, seal it on all six sides with polyurethane
or other waterproof sealer. Lay on your model in its proper location.
If you want it removable, wrap the lower part with Saran Wrap or other
kitchen plastic film. Attach to the base with a screw through the bottom.
Now trowel on an appropriately thick sheet of plaster of paris.
Smooth it up to the model waterline. As it dries, when it is firm but not set,
sculpt in the larger waves with a smooth edged butter knife. If the tug will
be shown in motion, sculpt in a wake as well as a bow wave and trough
(but be subtle here, they will be defined with color more than shape).
When the plaster has dried a little more, take a damp sponge and pad the
entire surface to create the small waves. Experiment with the pressure
and orientation of the sponge till you get the texture that you like.
If the plaster gets too hard, wet the sponge some more to soften.
Do the same for the wake, but with a bit more pressure and orient the
sponge with the motion of the tug.
Once you are satisfied, let the plaster dry for two full days.
Now paint the sea with water colors. There are so many shades and tones
that could be used, depending on whether it is deep sea, coastal sea,
inland lake, polluted harbor, etc., that you will have to make the final
decision. Whatever you choose, lay on a base coat, then a darker wash
for the hollows, then a lighter wash for the upper portions of the waves and
wake. Add even lighter highlights for the wave tops, wake streaks, and
wherever you think it will add realism. Again let dry completely.
Now paint the entire sea with a clear high gloss polyurethane finish.
You will be amazed at how this will give depth and transparency to the sea.
Let dry completely.
Finally (at last) go over the extreme tips of the waves where you want
whitecaps, the top of the bow wave and the portions of the wake near the
stern, with flat white paint to indicate foam above the surface of the sea.
The process takes a while, but the results are very gratifying.
Hope this is helpful
{Dan Pariser}
My technique for making the seascape for La Jacinthe is as follows:
I bought a piece of textured ABS plastic sold by Faller. This is a model
railway product and it is a clear sheet. They intend for you to paint the base blue
and lay this textured plastic over it. My method is to cut the sheet to fit my base.
I cut an opening to the shape of the hull. Next I glue the sheet to the baseboard
using CA. To form the swells, I put little balls of rolled newspaper or whatever
underneath to raise the plastic and form the swells. What isn't raised forms the
swells. The bow wake is simply milliput (a 2 part epoxy putty) sausages
that are faired into the water with a toothpick.
The edges of the plastic sheet is now raised and any gaps between it and the base
are filled with pollyfilla. Once dry, the sea is given a coat of matte white enamel.
My favourite is still Humbrol. Once dry, the sea is painted. I use artists acrylics -
Windsor Newtons. I start with Pthalo Blue (Green shade) and mix in
a little Pthalo Green (blue shade). I paint this all over (sections of the base
at a time, actually), thinning with a bit of water. In the troughs I darken the blue
with Dioazine Purple. For the swells I add Titanium white.
I use a stippling motion to blend the paints. Once dry, I make a thin glaze of the
blue and green paints, thinned a lot with water and brush it on. I let this dry.
I next add the white for the wake and what not with titanium white. I drybush,
rather irregularly and in moderation, the seascape with phtalo blue lightened with white.
The ship is then placed into the seascape. My method is to apply Gloss Gel
Medium (Golden brand) on the edges of the cut out, and set the ship
into this. This stuff fills any gaps between the hull and seascape. It dries
translucent, and if can be shaped with a wet brush. Once dry, some titanium
white goes on this to make the foam.
Once everything has dried out, two coats of Future floor wax and voila – a seascape.
Sails: I use drafting vellum (Staedeler Mars brand) that has
been painted with Tamiya "Deck Tan" acrylic paint with an airbrush.
This is oversprayed, in a random "cloud" pattern with Gunze Sangyo "Sail"
colour acrylic paint. I sometimes give the sails a wash of thinned burnt umber
artist acrylics.
The seams are simply pencil. My method of billowing the sails is to add a boltrope
around the whole sail made out of twisted copper wire. Two or three strands are
twisted up tight in a lathe and glued to the inside edge of the sail with CA.
This wire allows you to shape the sails.
{Kerry L. Jang}
Those of you who would use a material such as auto body filler etc. who
want to present a full waved effect with the wind ripping off the tips of the
waves need only go to the nearest fabric shop. There you will find lace-like
materials used for dress making fashion points. A small amount can be
had for very little money. Just before the goop dries stick in carefully cut
lace on edge. The results will be white and ripped off. Makes a much better
looking effect than reading about it . Try it on a piece of scrap until you get
it right and I think you will be impressed.
{Mickey Martelle}
These are from the railroad modellers and will depend on the sea conditions you want,
and the scale you are using, as to which you use.
- Small scale, smooth sea. This is the easy one. sheet of plain Glass, painted
on the reverse side with blues, greens and greys. It relies more on the reflection
of the model and background.
- Small scale, choppy sea. Same as above but using dimpled glass. (don't know
what its called States side).
- Larger Scales, Smooth sea. Paint your surface with blues, greens and greys
then cover with high gloss, slow drying varnish. Keep brushing and/or pushing
it in different directions and swirls until it is almost dry. This will give it a
rippled surface.
- Rough seas and/or the ship in motion. You may need to make a plug of your
hull for this one. Build up your sea using anything that will retain the shape
you require, I found Plastercine (play dough) very good as it can be worked
until you have it just right. Use Oil based artist paint to give it the colours
you require (this can be worked with the brush for finer detail) as water based
paint will not take on plastercine. Cover with high gloss varnish and then
you can touch in any foam highlights with a flat white/grey.
HINT. Model your general sea condition first. Then drop the hull plug in before
you form the Bow and stern wave. When your happy you can paint it and then insert
your model.
{caedave}
I'd like to mount a pair of models on a mahogany base under
Plexiglas. But the real sticker here is how can I simulate/duplicate
the wake(s) that two ships puttering at 30 knots through calm seas
would generate?
{Michael Wolf}
Not really answering your direct request (but that never seems to
stop other posters !!) I simulated the calm sea on a 1:700 scale
model of the Tamiya HMS King George V using cellophane.
I wanted to depict her at anchor, with an awning over the fantail and
ships boats scurrying about.
I took a suitable baseboard and roughly painted it in gloss sea blue.
Before the paint dried I got some thin blue cellophane from an art
shop and crumpled it up into a tight ball. Then I unwrapped and
pressed it down onto the blue paint.
As I couldn't get rid of the creases, I was left with air bubbles between
the cellophane and the paint, so that I had a dark blue color where
the cellophane stuck to the paint and lighter colors where the bubbles
were. The effect was most realistic and looked just like deep water
with the creases in the cellophane acting as a slight swell.
I suppose you could then add the wake using colored gel or something.
{Ken Duffey}
Artist's acrylic gel medium is the best I've ever seen for water.
I tried resin once, it got so damn hot chemically curing that it melted
my ship model. The gel medium is cool, no problem. There have
been at least 2 articles, in past issues of FSM, I think on using this
stuff. So go find your issues and read. I won't tie up the net with how
to use it.
{Raymond J. Mehlberger}
Most people use acrylic gel and it works fine with larger scales
(1:350 and up) but IMHO it's too coarse for 1:700. I used very
successfully aluminum foil (you have to make it into a ball and
then spread it on the base you want to use, wood preferably)
painted with dark blue and medium green (both glossy) sprayed
at the same time from two airbrushes (spray cans would do the
same I guess...) To create wakes use ordinary (white) toothpaste,
possibly the cheapest crap you can get for less than a dollar from
Pic'n Save or similar stores.
{Paolo Pizzi}
I've seen some fantastic dioramas done by Ken Hart of
submarines. Ken uses something called "water glass", which is
the wavy stuff you can get at art supply shops and glass shops.
He actually "glues" it to the base with a thick coat of blue- green
paint, after an initial coat of paint (Both coats on the bottom side).
After gluing the waterline ships to the glass, he depicts wakes by
using 2-part epoxy, which conducts light and looks remarkably
like a ship's wake. He spreads the epoxy "wake" with a toothpick.
See FSM's Modelling the Second World War for Ken's
submarine harbor scene. Although the subs are not "underway", it
illustrates how realistic this approach looks.
{Tom Dougherty}
Try using acrylic gesso. Found at art supply stores, it is similar to
acrylic gel, only gesso is pigmented, it is like really thick paint.
It has a mayonnaise consistency. There is a dark greenish blue
color that should be adequate for the base color. Just put it on thick
with a large brush, and work it into wave and wake shapes, then
stipple it with the brush to remove brush streaks. After it dries,
drybrush it in the usual manner. Very easy and effective in 1/700
scale.
{J. Gordon}
That works, but I was in the local art supply chain yesterday and
found a new line (or they just started to carry it!) of Liquitex products:
Liquitex Texture Gels. The line is an assortment of
modeling-type mediums. I bought 4....Black Lava(7108), Resin
Sand(6608), Natural Sand(6508), and Blended Fibers(6708). There
were several others, 7 or 8 total with other textures. I paid $6.55
each for an 8oz tub.
I haven't had the chance to do anything with them yet, but the texture
on the sample card was amazing. The Black Lava would make great
rocks, etc. for land dioramas, esp. for Pacific island beaches. I plan
to use the Blended Fibers to make bow/stern wakes. The Natural
Sand will make a good prop wash in the wake as it is very rough
and looks 'bubbly' on the sample. The Resin Sand will make good
waves and general water. These products are water clean-up, but is
"water resistant when dry" meaning you can use the acrylic paints to
detail the water's colors once the base coat is done.
{James Corley}
In my search for sea base tips, I found this for the silver foil mode technique:
Take Your Time to Model Seas
and this for the hand moulded type:
Making a Sea Base for Waterline Ships
For the oil painted glass technique there is this on the Steelnavy site:
RM Roma
My Diorama
The water is, as usual in my case, a simple oil painting on the glass of a regular
picture frame. For me, using a particular way of stroking with a wide flat brush
is the fastest and more appropriate visual scale simulation for wavelets. The oil
paint has brilliance, chromatically and glossiness that is hard to match with
acrylics. On the downside, it takes ages to dry, allowing though some time
to correct and blend it if needed. As a final layer I usually pour Future over
the oil base and spread it carefully with a brush. Be aware that using Future
over oil colors that are nor completely dry can cause some problems. The dock
is completely built from only Evergreen products and cardboard.
These are the results of hours of searching and may allow other people new to
dioramas a useful, initial, short cut. For the 1:128 scale I suspect the silver foil
will give good results for a calmish sea.
{Tony Cochrane-Barnett}
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