Because of the complexity of the rigging, it's best to start at the bottom and center and work your way up and out...if you put the outer lines on first, then you have to work through them to reach the inner lines.
When possible, it's best to apply as much rigging to a mast on the workbench before actually mounting it on the model, and then finishing it off. "helping hands" are useful for such tasks as putting strops around blocks, but not much help when working on the model itself. A couple of hemostats (I find mine at the local flea market) are useful, but I tend to use them most to attach to the end of a line as a weight to keep it straight while working on it. Tweezers are also useful, and a couple of other tools you can make yourself out of knitting needles (or heavy wire - such as coat- hangers), and dowels for handles:
Finally, a good pair of manicuring scissors for the fine cutting and
clipping needed. I have a pair with points so tiny on them that it is
hard to see the cutline they make.
{Aaron Taylor}
The little red threaders are dirt cheap at the sewing store and are super
easy to open and take out the "threader wire" and then install them into
different shape and lengths of brass tubing. They can be bent to any angle
for specific problems. I have done the flattened hanger bit also that was
probably my first try at something. A tool I forgot to include is a 1/16 dia
brass tube to which I flatten (like the hangers) and file a groove and then
redrill out the end. That way with the long serger you can feed the line up
the tube and out the back end and it never falls off the gooved end whilst
wrapping around belay pins. this works great on larger models.
{Greg in MI}
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