The first thing I would recommend is to loose the enamels. They are way too glossy and "plastic" looking for a static sailing ship model.
One of the best painting/finishing techniques I've found is based on the use of a good indoor semi-gloss polyurethane sealer (I like DEFT, but anything along those lines will do) and Floquil Railroad colors. Before you do anything, do a test patch to make sure that the polyurethane you're using and the paints are compatible (that's one reason why I like Deft, it is). You'll have to mix colors to get the exact shade you're looking for, but with a little practice, they will produce more accurate colors for period vessels, than just about any hobby paints on the market, with the possible exception of the old "ground in Japan" coach colors, or modern water based artist's acrylics.
The technique is to first apply a thin coat of the polyurethane. When
completely dry, sand with fine wet/dry paper, wipe off the dust with a
damp rag and apply a second thin coat. When that is thoroughly dry,
sand and wipe that as well. You may find it necessary to do it a third
time, but any more than that and you'll likely start to obscure detail.
Two coats is generally enough. When the polyurethane is cured,
brush on the top coat of Floquil color. When dry you will see that
there are virtually no visible brush strokes left. I have been using
this technique for more than 15 years and so far have seen no
evidence of peeling, bubbling, flaking or any other sign of
incompatibility. Adding a couple of drops of Floquil Crystal Kote
helps give the paint finish a nice eggshell quality. The polyurethane
gives the added advantage of strengthening the finish and hardening
the surface of the model to impart a degree of resistance to dings, as
well as to reinforce joints.
{Jim Roberts}
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