How is the copper applied? I'm about to copper my first ship
and have some questions:
- What is the best glue to use on the plates
- How to I age the plates. I wants to make the
coppering look old rather than shiny
- Do I copper from the waterline down or the keel up
(ship is British circa 1800)
According to Harold Underhill's Plank On Frame Models,
the copper was supplied in sheets 48" long and 15-18" wide. It was
laid brick-work fashion, in three "goring belts", with each piece
overlapping the ones below and the one aft. The objective was to
conserve metal, not to look pretty.
On a model, coppering looks best if the nail pattern is somehow
embossed into the individual plates -- un-embossed plates are
visually much less interesting. The coppering also hides the
planks, which frankly looks more interesting than the plating will.
The first step is to apply the copper to the stem, keel, and sternpost,
"running length-wise along them, the side sheets being turned down
round the outer faces...all of which were then covered by a wrapper
plate extending down the front of the stem, along the length of the
keel, and up the aft side of the sternpost, put on in 4' sections of
course".
Next, successive rows of copper are applied parallel to the keel and
running up the stem and sternpost until about half way up to the
waterline.
From the top of the belt at the bow and stern run a fair batten around the
bilge, and mark this line on the hull.
Continue the first belt up to this line, cutting the individual plates along
this line as necessary.
Lay out a second line parallel and below the waterline, two strips wide
(three wide for larger ships).
Begin the second belt as before, starting at the top of the lower belt
but with the individual plates full size. Continue this up until the top
row, cutting the plates as necessary at this line.
Finally, install the two (or three) upper rows to form the third goring belt
ending at the waterline.
You will now have three "belts" of plating; the first at the bottom, the
second above "cutting off" the lower belt, and the third (top) belt again
"cutting off" the middle belt.
{John O. Kopf}
I use contact cement, particularly Walther's Goo (available wherever
model railroading is sold). I have never had a plate fall off of this.
Are you starting with individual plates or a whole sheet of copper. A
good way to start making the copper look different is by heating each
individual plate with a propane torch (or similar device). The plate will
discolor and each one will appear different.
Some washes of white and green over the copper after it is on the
ship will go along way to making it look weathered. Apply the
washes in a downward motion so it streaks from top to bottom.
Copper the keel, stem, and stern first. Then copper from the
waterline down, fore to aft. Make sure you overlap the plates slightly.
{Dave Loseke}
I don't know about putting the plates on or which way to go, but for the
weathering, the following worked on a plastic model with a Copper
Metalizer paint. I filled a container with warm salt water. It must be
big enough to set the model in up to the water line, and I used table
salt. I then placed the model in the salt water up to the waterline. It
sat in the water for about 3 minutes. The model was hung over the
bathtub and allowed to drip dry stern down. This was repeated every
other day for one week. When finished, the hull had been dipped 4
times. I mounted it to the base and continued with the construction of
the deck fittings, masts and rigging. This took aprox. 90 days to
finish, working about 4 to 5 evenings a week. By the time I had
completed the model, the natural oxidation of the saltwater on the
copper finish had produced a very worn and greenish looking lower
hull. The chemical action had apparently stopped working by the time
I finished the model, as I did not notice any further color shifts over
the following two years that I had the model in my possession.
{John Huggins}
Why do modellers want to make a copper hull green? did you ever
see a copper hull? When it is new and first done it is of course
copper color. So if you want your model to look new, leave it copper.
On the other hand, if the ship has been in salt water, and you remove
it, it is a very bright copper color. It only turns green after its been
hauled out and exposed to air for a long time. An active ship, with a
copper bottom has a bright shiny copper color.
A ship out of the water, high and dry, like maybe CUTTY SARK
will be green, and an old model, not properly cared for will be green.
{Ron Ginger}
I was going to recommend Bare Metal's Copper Foil as well, but I
didn't know if it would work due to the fact that every sheet of foil
I've seen, except for the chrome finish, is somewhat wrinkled all
over, and I don't know if it will lend itself to chemical weathering, I
don't ship model, however, I liked the propane torch, and salt water
tips, very clever. However, there is a product available (somewhere)
that 'antiques' copper to a streaky black finish. I used it in Jr. High
School years ago to age a copper sheet that had been 'awl punched'
with a design. This stuff smells like rotten eggs, and for some
reason, I think it contains ammonia, and possibly sulfur.
{David Cooper}
To those of you who have been advocating planking solid hulls - I
heartily agree! I would not however, recommend the Elsie or
the Sultana as a first kit to attempt this with, however. Not
because they are bad kits, but because they have painted lower
hulls. With painted lower hulls, the planking will be visible below
the waterline, which is the most complicated portion of a ship's
planking. Here one must deal with stealers and so forth, and strong
compound curves. Above the waterline, things are much simpler.
I recommend Model Shipway's Kate Cory or something
similar. She has a plank-on-solid-hull construction, but she has a
coppered hull. Since the coppering will cover the lower planking, the
lower planking need not be to scale, allowing the modeller to
experiment and learn. The key here is to fill and sand the lower
planking so that the planking pattern will not show through the (very
thin, self adhesive) copper. IMO coppering is much simpler (if
somewhat tedious) than planking. Remember to clear coat the copper
as soon as possible to protect it from finger prints! It will still age
nicely under the clear coat.
{Paul Darrah}
Came across new idea for coppering for the budget-minded folks.
Helped young boy build first ship.
Built Pilot Schooner Hesper 1/4 scale modified POB.
Excellent plans and booklet by Erik Ronnberg Jr.
I have coppering sheathing of all types, but youngest had another idea.
Never too old to learn.
Here are the details, and believe me it looks good.
Bought pad of paper canvas (10 sheets $5.00)
Paper excellent texture and tough.
Painted two sheets of canvas with copper metallic acrylic ($1.30
plenty left over.
Applied two coats acrylic waterbase varnish ( $1.50 plenty left over).
Allow to cure 24hrs.
Antiqued over copper canvas with burnt umber acrylic wash ($3.50
a tube, enough for life)
Antiqued waterline area with a Light Green mixed with little Burnt
Umber wash ($3.50 a tube enough for life)
These washes are easy to control can add more or take away. Brush
on two coats of waterbase varnish. Let cure for 24hrs.
Cut individual pieces from strips or use strips.
For overlap effect press razor blade or similar implement to back
of canvas. Will not cut through.
Can fill ridges with Elmer's glue to keep shape. Wipe off excess off
ridge. Let dry.
Coat hull with two coats of contact cement. Let dry.
One coat of same on back canvas. Let dry.
Brush another coat of contact glue on back of canvas, apply to hull in
wet state so can adjust plate or let dry and use wax paper on back
and slowly remove.
If contact glue gets on copper side let dry and rub off with finger or
pickup eraser.
Material is very durable and holds excellent. Tested by placing ship in
screened porch through one year of Florida's wonderful weather.
It looks darn good.
If you worry about the thickness of the paper there are ways to
compensate.
Cost total around $17.00, could get cheaper at x-marts.
Still have enough for an estimated five ships considering the canvas
paper.
I hope someone will try this. I am very impressed by the outcome.
Now I ask why the heck did a accumulate so many types of copper
sheathing over the years.
By the way the youngest just turned 14, and here I 'm in my 60's
and been modeling on and off for 20+ years. What a ego booster.
I think shipmodeling in the future will be in good hands.
{Julianne Conklin}
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