Shop Note
Twelve Spiling Steps
Dan Pariser
Welcome Brother -
I feel your pain. . . I have been there, man, and it's a bummer. . . But I've
been clean and sober after spiling planking for 8 years, ten months and three
days, now, and maybe I can help.
Repeat after me our TWELVE SPILING STEPS:
- Glue up the keelbone and bulkheads from the kit. Make sure that they are
square and true and your heart will follow also. Fill each and every void in
the eggcrate below the lowest gundeck with balsa blocks. Make sure they
overhang each bulkhead all over, and damn the expense lest you be damned.
- Take thy spokeshave, thy razor knife, thy sandpaper, and thy other
implements and decrease the excess from the balsa blocks by removal. Quick
should you be until you are close to the end, then slow is your watchword.
- Make thereby a hull, equal and symmetrical from side to side, accurate
according to the plan lines, and smooth, with curves flowing gently. Solid
too, as your faith in yourself.
- Find you a latex enamel paint of a light and pleasing color. Daub the
solid hull all over, as Moses' mother did the basket of reeds in which he was
lain. Recoat several times with thy paint, until the shell on the hull is as
hard as was Pharoah's heart.
- Divine and locate the lowest line of the lowest wale on the plans. Draw it
thus on the solid hull of your making. Be exact and careful as will be St.
Peter at the hour of our judgment.
- Divine, locate and draw similarly on the painted hull the lines, vertical
in space, corresponding to each station line as taken from the plans. To
cradle or mount the hull upstanding may be helpful, as it would be in resisting
temptation.
- Determine the desired maximum width of your hull planks and mark divisions
of such size on the station line at the center of the hull, adjusting as needed
at the garboard strake. Mark on each station line, save the foremost near the
stem and the one or two hindmost before the sternpost, a similar number of
divisions, but of diminishing size. Fight the urge to exceed the maximum
width, as you would fight the Devil himself.
- Connect the marks from station line to station line, marking out the edges
of the plank strakes. Your lines, when viewed from right ahead or right astern
should be gently curving, with no abrupt humps or hollows. A flexible wooden
batten will ease your journey and smooth your brow.
- Continue the lines forward and aft in a pleasing fashion. Where two planks
at the bow diminish to half the maximum width, draw there a drop plank, to take
the place of the two. Where planks at the stern widen to more than the maximum
width, draw in a stealer, and there will be two planks where once there was one.
- Inspect your work from all sides and angles, then erase, adjust and redraw
until you are happy with your efforts. Preserve your happiness by inking in the
lines with an indelible pen, as you would preserve the joy of a child's smile.
- Transfer the size, dimension and shape of each plank or strake to wood by
laying translucent tape down flat on the hull and drawing thereon the plank
edges that appear through the tape. Remove the tape and lay it flat and
without bend or kink on your desired planking, matching edges as much as
possible. Cut, carve and sand the plank to shape, then make a mirror image
plank for the opposite side. Mount them to the hull in their appointed places.
- Continue thus, from the garboard up and the wale down, and finishing with
a shutter plank in the middle, until the entire hull is sheathed in wood, as
tight as a miser's purse and as sound as the ark of Noah. Thus will you grasp
the principles and mysteries of spiling, and the glory of the Lord will be upon
you.
Hoping that I didn't sound too much like Yoda, I am,
A fellow sinner,
{Dan Pariser}
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