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280ZX Turbo High Volume Oil Pump

The OEM oil pump from the 280ZX Turbo was used to flow more oil throughout the KA24E motor. This should help since this motor now has custom oil piston squirters. Arizona Z Carshop

KA24E Crank Scraper and Windage Kit

I contacted Kevin at Ishihara-Johnson Crank Scrapers and ordered a custom kit for my KA24E. I opted for this upgrade because it will help keep oil temps down and prevent oil foaming. Kevin set me up with a crankshaft scraper that removes the oil on the upward and downward stroke of the crank. The scrapers can only be machined to come so close to the crankshaft counterweights. To truely make this an effective mod, he suggested the teflon upgrade to the scrapers. The teflon blades come in direct and safe contact with the crank for maxium oil removal. As the crank spins, it tends to act as a fan, so a windage tray was included to help control the tornadic cloud produced in the crank case. Since I am not using the OEM oil pan, Kevin was able to make a true full length windage tray to cover all four cylinders. This mod will free up horsepower by reducing oil drag. Ishihara-Johnson Crank Scrapers

Xcessive Manufacturing's KA24E oil pan

Rich worked with me to modify one of his DOHC Xcessive oil pan to fit the SOHC KA24E motor. This custom pan will allow me to use the SR20DET sump upgrade to make for the ultimate oil pan conversion. The custom pan also features a 1/2 NPT return oil drain from the turbocharger. Xcessive Manufacturing

Nissan Quest 3.0L 93-98 Alternator Upgrade

The 93-98 Quest alternator is on the left, and the KA24E alternator is on the right. They have the same bolt pattern. This conversion will upgrade your electrical system from an 80 amp to 110 amp alternator.

The Quest alternator will not bolt on to the lower alternator mounting bracket on the KA24E motor. The alternator bolt is too big, so the pivot bolt holes have to be drilled out. I use a 3/8" drill bit. But the hole was still to small to fit the bolt thru. So I used a round metal file and filed the hole just a little bit bigger. I would recommend a 25/64" or 13/32" drill bit for closer size fit.

Once the Quest alternator was bolted on, it would not pivot upwards towards the motor because the top interal threaded boss sticks out too far and it hits the adusting bracket. Not only will it not rotate inwards, the pulleys do not line up. The alternator pulley sticks out too far out as well. It became obvious that the entire alternator needs to be pushed back.

The Quest alternator housing was removed and the front bolt hole (Right X) was machined on the back size to be .29" thinner. This will push or sit the alternator futher back towards the center of the motor. A corresponding thick washer was placed on the back side of the alternator (Left X) so that the housing doesn't crack or crush when tighten with the rear nut on the bolt.

Here is the view from the top side to show the alternator sits in its proper place. The top internal threaded boss now sits behind the adjustment bracket and the alternator pulley is aligned with the water pump and center pulley of the crank.

With the Quest alternator now in proper place, it became clear that the OEM KA24E alternator belt would not fit. It was too short. We tried using the OEM KA24E A/C belt and it did fit. The problem was it was not long enough. I went up 2 sizes longer than the stock A/C belt and got the perfect fit. I used an Autozone belt, Part Number 372K4 (Gates K040372)

As you can see, the belt length is perfect. The alternator adjustment bolt sits right in the middle of the slot of the adjustment bracket. For even better adjustment, the slot was machined wider on the adjustment bracket.

The perfect swap conversion to give my baby a bit more juice.