Tools and Techniques: Everyone that does woodwork has developed their own techniques based upon the tools they own. The techniques shown in the following paragraphs are based on the tools I use for Intarsia. There are as many different ways to make a project as there are projects. The tools I use in making Intarsia are:
1. Band saw: The band saw comes in handy when making outside cuts, or cuts where the blade thickness would not come into play. If making more than one object, you can save time by making stacked cuts. Stacked cuts are made by taping two or more pieces of wood together using double sided carpet tape. I use a
1/8 inch blade for all Intarsia. It works better for me to cut on the line instead of outside or inside the line.
2.
Scroll saw: While the scroll saw is much slower, a thinner blade can be used
for more accuracy and for those cuts where blade thickness must be considered. Since I
have both a band saw and scroll saw, I don't have to change blades on my scroll saw. I
keep a
universal number 5 blade on my scroll saw at all times. If
you are using a thin blade, don't try to force feed the lumber. If the blade gets too hot in a
tight corner, it will distort and your cut may not be perpendicular. Many of the newer models of scroll saws come with a table insert for intricate tiny cuts. If yours doesn't have such an insert, put an auxiliary table on your scroll saw with zero clearance around the blade. This can be made out of any thin material such as 1/4" plywood or plastic. Some Intarsia cuts are very intricate and you'll need support up close to the blade.
3.
Drill Press: I use my drill press for part of the sanding and contouring portion
of making Intarsia. I use
sanding drums of various sizes and finishing flap wheels made
from nonwoven synthetic mesh impregnated with aluminum-oxide grain. Finishing flap
wheels can be obtained from Sears or call Klingspor's Sanding Catalog at 1-800-228-
0000. The finishing flap wheels will give you that ultra smooth finish you've been
looking for. Of course, you don't need a drill press to use sanding drums or finishing flap
wheels. They can be used on any 1/4 inch drill.
4. Belt sander: All of the coarse contouring is done on my stationary belt sander. You could use a hand belt sander clamped upside down to your bench, pneumatic drums, sanding drums on your drill, or any of a variety of methods depending on your workshop.
Safety: It is very important to remember the safety rules of all of the power tools you use when working in your workshop. Know how your tools work, and never risk injury to get that last cut. Be patient when contouring small pieces. If you put too much pressure on the piece, it can easily escape from your grasp which can leave you with no fingernails and maybe no fingerprints. The finishing flap wheels give a delicate smooth surface, but in doing so, create an extremely fine dust. You should devise some method of protecting yourself from the dust. Either by positioning a fan so it blows the dust away from your face, or by wearing a mask, or both. As always when working in your shop, wear safety glasses.
Let's get down to business: The following are the basic steps to completing an Intarsia project. Included with your pattern are specifics concerning that project. Good luck and enjoy!
1. Select Lumber: Included in your pattern are suggestions for types of wood and grain direction. These are only suggestions and you may want to use different kinds of wood that you are more familiar with. I try to keep costs down by using domestic hardwoods. Just remember, no two pieces of wood are the same. When you are at your lumber store, try to visualize your project in that piece of lumber as you select it. Some patterns are enhanced with pronounced grain pattern and others are not. Knots are seldom acceptable in Intarsia, but sometimes the grain pattern around the knot is very desirable, so don't disregard a board just because it has a knot.
2. Layout: There are several ways to do your layout, but the most common is to use carbon paper under your pattern. The pattern is given as actual size, however; you may want to enlarge or reduce to suit your taste.
3. Cut: The most important thing to remember when cutting Intarsia can be summed up in three words: Patience, patience, patience! I recommend cutting the line and don't forget to account for the thickness of the blade. If you are intimidated by the number of pieces of a project, separate it into several (3 or 4) sections. Complete each section, then assemble the sections.
4. Dry Fit: This is your chance to make sure everything fits together. Whether you are going to use a backing or not, any adjustments should be made now. If your blade wandered a bit and you don't have a perfect fit, you may have to do a little sanding to correct the error. Sometimes you may have to just re cut a piece. If you have a middle piece which just won't do, try the following: Lay the surrounding pieces out on the lumber of the stubborn piece. Mark it, then cut it. It may not be just exactly as the pattern shows it, but it will fit this time. In this instance it may be best to cut just on the outside of the line.
5. Contour: This is the most important portion of your project. It is by contouring that you change a two dimensional piece of woodwork into a three dimensional piece of art. As you shape each piece, try to keep in mind how you want the finished product to look, and how the piece you are working on contributes to the overall presentation of the project. Think three dimensional.
6. Apply Glue: Assemble your project on a piece of waxed paper to prevent it from becoming a permanent addition to your workbench. I use simple yellow wood glue. It is easy to clean up and gives you some leeway if you make a mistake. Make sure you don't have glue oozing out on the finish side of your project. If you do get glue on the finish side, clean it off immediately.
7. Tips and hints: I only use a backing on a few of my projects. If you are more comfortable using a backing, 1/4 inch lauan plywood is a suitable choice. If using a backing, simply add glue to the bottom of each piece. If you are not using a backing, look at how the back of your project looks. For some reason, it is human nature for folks to look at the back of a project, no matter how wonderful the front looks. The back of your project will look like a two dimensional representation of the three dimensional front. Therefore, it is important how the back looks. Hold your project up to the light, if you can see light through any of the seams, try the following: Mix some wood glue and wood dust together. Fill the gaps from the back using a putty knife, being careful to not get any of this mixture on the front. Make sure you clean any excess with the putty knife. When dry, run the back of your project over the belt sander. This will clean up any excess mixture. If you only have small gaps to fill, instead of the above, just put a small amount of glue on the gap then run it over the belt sander. The sander will drag wood dust across the glue and fill the gap. While effective, this procedure will have a tendency to clog up the sanding belt. If your cuts are perfect, you won't have to worry about any of the above tips.
8. Apply Finish: The kind of finish to use is based simply on your taste. I use a satin polyurethane spray. A good indicator of how many coats to use is by looking at how the end grain takes the finish. Here's a little tip: Take a scrap of thin plywood and drive at least three screws through the plywood so the points extend beyond the plywood about an inch. Space the screws so that your project will lay on the screw tips. Then spray the finish.
9. Attach Hanger: I don't provide a place for the hanger, because you may use different woods for your project than I do mine. Therefore, the center of gravity won't be the same because each kind of wood has its own density. Hold your project between your index finger and thumb, when you have found the center of gravity, simply mark where your finger is on the back and attach the hanger. Stand back and admire your work of art.