SCOTTY   WINDOW   SEALS


This is for the seal on the side and back windows.  Originally there is a rubber like type material that goes between the window and the outside frame.  This material tends to shrink up over time and pulls away usually at the corners.  This will allow water to work it's way inside.  You can see in the picture below how the original seal is pulling out of the bad window sealthe corner of the window.  This is a very simple and inexpensive fix.  You can use door guard that is sold at Auto parts stores.  It comes in gold and silver colors on a roll.  You can still get the original type window gasket at a cost of .79/ft.
GASKET  ] To install: first remove the old sealer and clean out the space so there is no dirt, etc.  Then start at the top of the window in the center.  Work your way around the window pressing the door guard into the opening, when you get back to where you started, take a utility knife and cut it to fit.

Here are pictures of the new installed and the old. Compliments of Michael Coumas.
              New door guard installed                   Original window sealer look.         
door guard gold door guard silver


JALOUSIE  WINDOW  SEALS

jalousie window seal
This seal  is for: "This 5/16" diameter vinyl bulb seal has a 1/8" wide base.  It is designed to fit in the channel at the top and bottom of many JALOUSIE (louvered) windows to cushion the top and bottom panes as they close against the aluminum frame."  PLEASE BE SURE TO FOLLOW THIS INFO:

"Please carefully measure the width of the channel on your window to verify whether this is the correct seal for your window"  CURRENT PRICE:  $7.99/10-Ft Length at Vintage Trailer Supply  Product Code: VTS-525

jalousie window seal
This is another seal for the top of Jalousie windows: " This gray vinyl seal is used on the header and sill of some models of jalousie window. It is 7/8" tall. The T at the top is approximately 1/8" wide.

Price is for one 10-foot length. Known to work on 1960 Globestars, 1963 Little J trailers and many, many other trailers. CURRENT PRICE:  $7.99/10-Ft Length   Product Code: VTS-386   Also available at Vintage Trailer Supply.




This is for those who have the front window where there are  two "fixed" side panes and one awning window in the middle. If you have to replace the glass, Vintage Trailer Supply has Glass Bedding Tape.  This is a butyl glazing tape and only comes in a 50-foot reel.  The cost is $7.95.  You very carefully clean the aluminum frame and place the bedding tape where the window will touch. Be very careful as this tape is very sticky. You can put a book or something on top of the glass to put pressure on it but do not put excess pressure on it or the line of bedding tape will spread out, get out of line, and the top gasket will not cover it up.  If you mess it up, you can remove the tape by heating it with a hair dryer.  If you "ball up" some of the tape you can use it to remove the rest--just like removing bubble gum.
 
This is information regarding the seals and gasket: The gasket material from Vintage Trailer supply is Hehr Hall-Mark 12 Glazing strip and will work. It costs 99 cents/foot.  You cut four strips to "frame" the inside edges of the glass. Below are the pictures of the window with old gasket, window with new gasket, the old and new gaskets and showing install of new gasket.  This is compliments of --- Rose Wurm.

window with old gasket
window new gasket
old and new gaskets
installing gasket



This is for the front door window seal.  If you have the rounded type like the picture below.  Compliments of Dominic.....thanks.


I did use the one listed in the resources (WS-AS893) and it worked great.  I put the gasket in place first with the seam on top.  I started on top and was careful to make sure both metal edges on the door were inside the gasket.  I waited this time until I reached the top again to cut the gasket.  I didn't want to cut it short again.  I then placed the window in the bottom ridge and started to work up along the sides working it into the gasket all the way around.  THEN came the very tedious and difficult task of closing the locking ridge on the gasket.  I started in the center on the bottom and worked my way up the right side to the top and then did the left side.  I used warm soapy water to make the gasket pliable and eventually had to use a little Armor All on the last (Upper Left) corner.  It is a slow go, so be patient.  When I finished I could have used a martini.  I had a blunt plastic tool that glass shops use to help push the locking strip in as I went along, but a LARGE blunt slotted screwdriver would do the same thing.  Just be sure it is blunt so as not to puncture the gasket.  Lots of warm soapy water or Armor All to keep the gasket pliable and patience should do the trick.  Good luck, it looks great when done!!!!!!  Below is a  pic of the tool that Dominic used to install the seal:



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Web page created by Larry Bush:  Sept.17.2007 --- Edited:  5.23.2009
Serro Scotty ~ Vintage Campers ©
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