wheel-bearing

GREASING OR REPLACING
YOUR SCOTTY WHEEL BEARINGS

The wheel bearings on your Scotty should be checked often to be greased or replaced if necessary. This is a job that can be done by someone with a little mechanical ability or you can take it to a mechanic or rv dealer. The following will give you an idea on how to do this if you want to do it yourself. You will need a can of wheel bearing grease and cleaning solvent that can be found at Wal-Mart, most auto parts stores or rv dealers. A hammer, pliers, plastic container for the solvent, small paint brush and soft drift punch. Also, some rags and/or towels will be necessary as this is a dirty job.

Although this is more specific to the Serro Scotty (bearing and seal numbers) the process should be very similar to doing the wheel bearings and seals on any vintage camper.

Greasing or Replacing Scotty Wheel Bearings:

The Bearings are Timken:   #09067 and #15123. The Timken Grease seal: #GW-240-144-6( appears this seal is no longer available) Cross references to : Federal Mogul Seal #440 265 - But, they cross referenced the original number with a '0' added "GW-240-144-06 " I can't say why this was done, but the seal did work. Here are a couple more seal #'s that were found: National 44C265 S6C, NAPA 16811 So, if anyone happens to find the original Timken number seal or other replacement please let me know.

This is the complete bearing set found at:

                   Applied Industries Technologies
                   1 McCullough Drive
                   New Castle, Del. 19720-2007 : 1-302-328-9557
                            -----------------------------
                   Outer Bearing Assembly: Timken 09067
                   Outer Bearing    Race :     Timken 09195
                   Inner Bearing Assembly:   Timken 15123
                   Inner Bearing    Race:       Timken 15245
                   Inner Seal :                      Chicago Rawhide CR 16811 (all around $100.00)

Most good auto parts stores can locate these bearings and seals. But, if you are having a problem then you might use the above or check the below info from Coop..

This is from Coop : " It turns out that certain John Deere tractors had the same bearing arrangement as our Scotties! Check it out, for one side $9.95! All the numbers match EXCEPT the seals are NOT compatible BUT bearings & races do and STILL an excellent price! I'm reasonably sure we aren't talking high quality Timken bearings BUT still !

Look at Part No. WBKJD11. - http://www.ytmag.com/cgi-bin/store/search_parts.cgi?ID=ftr&Category=Wheels

$28.90 for BOTH sides including shipping & handling ! - As of 6.28.2009

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You should inspect the bearings and the grease seal to make sure they are in good condition. If they appear worn or loose, then they should be replaced. Now is the time since you will have everything all apart.

The bearings and seal should be available at any good auto parts store or possibly an RV place that sells parts. Take your old ones in case they need to cross reference the numbers.

They are Timken which is a large bearing company and I did a search on the internet and lots of sites came up, so if you are having any problem locating the bearings just search the web for Timken bearings.

FIRST: you'll need to get your Scotty raised up and the wheels removed to begin the process of replacing or greasing your Scotty wheel bearings:

Place your Scotty on firm level ground.
Block both wheels and loosen lug nuts on tires.
Lower front of Scotty as far down as possible.
Place a jack stand under the rail behind each wheel.
Using your jack under the rail on one side, raise as high as the jack goes.
Then raise the jack stand to that height.
Move to the other side and place jack under rail and raise as high as jack goes.
Then raise the jack stand to that height.
Goto the front of Scotty and use the tongue jack to raise Scotty back to level.
The axle should drop down enough to allow you to remove the tires to begin.

This is an outline of the steps involved to grease/replace your Scotty bearings:

Remove the center cap, be careful not to damage it. You may need to use a pair of pliers to help get it off or tap lightly with a hammer as you pull.
Now, straighten out the cotter pin going through the axle nut and remove it. Then loosen the axle nut to the end of axle threads.
Pull out on the hub so the front bearing comes out some, then push the hub back. Remove the axle nut and washer and bearing. Place these on a rag. If you are going to remove both sides before cleaning, then make sure you keep each side together as a set. Also, take note of the front and back bearings.
Now you can remove the hub(s) off the axle. You'll want to clean the axle too.
To get the back bearing and seal out of the hub, you will need to use a hammer and a soft drift punch. Place the hub on a couple pieces of wood at the edges. Now use the drift punch to gently tap the back bearing and seal out of hub.
Now that you have both bearings removed, you will need a small plastic wash tub to place the bearings in to clean. Pour enough of the cleaning solvent over the bearings to cover them. You can let them soak for awhile to help loosen the old grease, dirt, etc. Use the small paint brush to aid in cleaning the bearings and the hub too. Once they are all cleaned good, take a good look at the bearings to see if they need replaced. Mostly feel to see if the bearings are loose inside or feel rough. If so, then replace with new ones. Inspect the grease seal too.
The rest can apply to new bearings/seal or the old ones you are just greasing.
The easiest(this is a dirty job) way to grease the bearings is to just take some grease into your hand and work it into the bearing. Roll the bearing around some to make sure you get grease well inside of it.
Now place some grease inside the hub where the bearing sits. Then place the hub onto the boards again, this time flipped over so you can replace the back bearing and then the seal. Place the bearing into the hub and then the grease seal and tap it lightly into place.
Now you can place the hub back on to the axle shaft. Slide the front bearing into the hub followed by the washer. Thread the axle nut by hand up against the bearing washer and work the hub around a little as you tighten the axle nut. Now tighten with a wrench. You should be able to spin the hub freely, if not you need to back off the axle nut a little. Now insert the cotter pin into the hole and through the axle nut. Bend the ends of the cotter pin over to prevent the axle nut from coming loose. Replace the cap and put the wheel back on.
Repeat on the other side axle wheel bearings.

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Web page created by Larry Bush: Sept.17.2007 --- Edited: 6.28.2009
Serro Scotty ~ Vintage Campers ^©
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