Another beautiful day here in paradise!! We were up early and heading for the Park. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison is not the deepest canyon in the US or the narrowest, but it is one of the most spectacular for the combination of factors, and that the Gunnison River drops so precipitously through the crevice. With my fear of heights, I was a nervous wreck the entire time in the park. The road runs right along the rim much of the time, and it is awesome -- but sooooo scary!
The afternoon took us out of Colorado and into southern Utah -- what a change of scenery in a short period of time. We stopped at the Utah Visitors Center to try to get a handle on the route for all these parks in Utah. They actually call it the Grand Circle, and have a well laid out path to follow, no matter where you enter the circle. Some of the roads look a little scary -- but it appears that this is the only way to really see everything. So we're off.
Our first stop in the late afternoon is Arches NP. They say go early in the AM or late in the PM for the best photography and views. The sky is clear blue, and the scenery out of another world. Many of the biggest arches require a good hike to view, but there is so many other formations to see, that it leaves your mouth hanging open. The red rock against the azure blue sky can only be captured in pictures. And talk about personalities, some of the tall "figures" have faces and expressions that you can easily see! It was quite shocking!
Moab, UT is a town I have heard about for many years -- from my days handling PacifiCorp -- they have a location in Moab, and I talked to the technician down there quite often. It is really a spectacular town. Very much an outdoors town with 4-wheeling, biking, rafting and float trips all emanating from here. And the setting! Right on the Colorado River with the red rock all around and the crystal blue sky above. One of the prettiest towns we have visited. And a fun little Mexican restaurant -- El Bandito Grille -- "There are no cans in our Mexi-can!" Good food. And you could buy a beer! (Remember, we're back in Utah -- the land of strange liquor laws!)
We stayed at a really nice campground right outside town - the Riverside Oasis. Private, nice grassy sites, the river nearby and lots of trees.
Today is my birthday. Mom checked in early feeling badly she couldn't even send me a card! Tonight I got an ecard and e gift certificate from Nicholas and Maggie -- what a difference a generation or two makes! Now I have to figure out how to access it and use it! We were out of cell range most of the day in Canyonlands Park, and missed several calls from friends with good wishes. It helped make the day more special out here in the middle of nowhere. Tonight we are in Blanding, UT -- a dry town! Couldn't even toast my birthday -- except in our room!
Canyonlands was a fun way to spend my birthday. We hiked and photographed more of this crazy country. Canyonlands is, appropriately enough, riddled with canyons -- most of the park is wilderness, but we were still able to enjoy some of its beauty from the car and a few short hikes. We went into the Needles area -- one of three separate locations within a giant park. It almost becomes overwhelming after awhile, when one thing is more spectacular than the last. Your eyes almost go numb!
All day on a scenic byway -- only 190 miles, but it takes us all day. A stop at Natural Bridges and Capitol Reef to see the wonders of both of these locations, plus where the Colorado River joins Lake Powell at Hite Marina. Wonderful vistas, ever changing,. all day long. In and out of the red rocks, fabulous white rock faces leaping out of the river floor. Roads that thread their way through canyons with creeks and rivers, long plateaus with small green shrubs as far as the eye can see, and formations that reminded us of all kinds of statues and strange things to see.
This is the kind of scenery that cameras can't really capture -- your eyes see the panorama, but the lens can't take that all in, so all a photographer can do is try to focus on a representative sample of the terrain, but that seems so inadequate-- and flat on the lens. You have to see it for yourself, that is the only way to truly "see" it. And, you have to get out of your car and see at least some of the back country. Today we took a 1/2 mile hike -- with a 200' drop/rise in that time, and a 2 mile hike through a wash in a canyon. Totally different experiences, but both gave us a better appreciation of the areas.
It suddenly dawned on us that this weekend is Memorial Day -- it is easy to lose track of time -- and that we are in one of the most popular locations in the country -- OH SHIT!! We had to sit down and plan -- oh horrors! We made reservations for Friday through Monday at, appropriate locations -- Grand Canyon (N Rim), Zion NP, and St. George -- a golf mecca. Then a beeline for Southern California to meet the grand babies -- with a quick stop in Las Vegas/Lake Mead area on the way. We feel like we are under a lot of stress! We actually have to BE somewhere on a certain date!
What will happen when we get home -- we are so used to our own schedule, I can't imagine having OBLIGATIONS again! I told Phil today, we have got to get a calendar. People are already working on filling our days! I'm starting to get worried about the "reentry" to normal society!
Tonight we are in Torrey, UT, near Capitol Reef. The motel we are in is full of 40+ "Bergies" from Portland traveling in 3 vans.. We have had a good time talking with several of them -- and picked up another prospect for the Van! They are here on a week long hiking trip through several of the parks. These people are animals! Our age roughly, but they are really outdoors types! Fun and enjoyable.
At what point can the eyes and senses not take anymore? This country is so eye popping at every turn -- hour after hour, you see one setting after another that changes from reds to greens, to whites, to combinations-- from plateaus to deep valleys to rolling slicks to peacefully valleys. Today we ventured down what has been called one of the most scenic highways in America - highway 12 from Torrey to Bryce NP. Only a little over a hundred miles, but at least 3 hours of time. Up and down, twisting turns, vistas that force a stop, and The Hogsback -- a strip about 1/2 mile long at 15 MPH -- across a 2 lane road with minimal shoulders and no guardrail where you see into the depths below on BOTH sides about 1000' lower than you are as you creep across this unbelievable ridge. The original road through this area around Boulder, UT was built by the CCC -- every pickful built by hand, creeping up and down canyon walls to cross this area. The last place where the mail was delivered by mule. It is part of Escalante Grand Staircase National Monument. You are too awed to be scared.
We pulled off the road for lunch at the Kiva Koffeehouse with a view that wouldn't quit. Built in the mid 1990's by an artist fulfilling his dream. His family is now completing his vision. The food was fresh and home made, and the feeling intimate. The materials for the structure came mostly from the surrounding land and looked like an Indian Kiva. We had a delightful conversation with a couple about our age from San Francisco. Another possibility of interest for the Van. They "toured" the rig and really thought it was perfect! They have traveled extensively in both the US and the rest of the world -- very interesting life they have had -- and now in retirement it sounds like "no holds barred" traveling for them!
Late in the afternoon we arrived at Bryce Canyon NP. The storm clouds had been building all afternoon, but the rains held off for another place and time. It was too late in the day to consider a hike, so settled for an auto tour of the most popular places. We would have loved to join the people down in the canyon looking up at us on the rim. What a place. The "hoodoo's" are so animated standing sentry over the canyon.
Today is our 9th Anniversary, and found ourselves in Panguitch (rhymes with sandwich). The Cowboy's Smokehouse became our celebration with real mesquite smoked meat for dinner. Even live music in the middle of the week. Good dinner, but just not like being home to celebrate!
Off for the North Rim of the Grand Canyon today. This side is over 1000 feet higher than the S. Rim, and many fewer people visit here. From rim to rim is only 10 miles at this point, but the drive between the two is over 200 miles -- it is a 4-5 hour trip between them. We felt like we were driving to Black Butte -- the high ponderosa pine forests and the large open meadows really looked like that area -- but you are over 8,000 feet elevation.
We have been over a mile high for 2+ weeks, and still can't breathe comfortably! It's just a matter of how uncomfortable we are. We are doing well up to about 8,000 feet now -- another few weeks, and maybe we'd be like the locals! All of these parks are just begging you to hike. They lure you with a short 1/2 to 1 mile "easy" trail that then makes you want to see more. It is so good for us!
A few hours drive and we arrive at the North Rim. We had reserved a cabin for the night at the Grand Canyon Lodge. A wonderful choice. A historic lodge built right on the rim. I don't know how they built it this way, but the building is literally the edge of the canyon. Two big terraces with old rocking chairs beckon you to stop and just enjoy the vista. This is Friday night of the busy Memorial Day weekend, and the 200 lodge cabins are full, but the place is still not over run with people. It is just pleasant to wander around, take a hike, look through the gift shop, meander through the cabins, or go take a nap!
Bright Angel Point (visible from the South Rim) was recommended for Sunset, so off we went, camera in hand. Not to be forgotten. The canyon was in constant change as the sun changed the shadows in the rock. I'm so glad I sucked it up and went out onto this point with the canyon falling all around the point. It was scary, but I made it.
Dinner in the dining room was a treat. A nice menu, excellent wine list, and big picture windows made a grand room even more special. It was dark when we got seated (somehow got a window seat -- the envy of most of the dining room -- don't know how it happened, but when we checked in, they said "let me check that window table for you, Mr. White"), but we could see the lights over on the South Rim and people still out enjoying the terrace. A real treat..
The morning was clear and bright. We left our cozy cabin with raw log pitched ceilings and 1920's furnishings, and walked over to the lodge for coffee and yogurt. A few people milling about, just very pleasant.
Before leaving this magical place, we went out to Imperial Point -- the highest point on either rim and could see where the canyon begins as just a faint crack in the earth, down to almost the South Rim development area, where the canyon is a mile deep. Truly spectacular. The only bummer about the North Rim is that you can't see the Colorado River (which really isn't much to look at anyway).
On the way back, we stopped for lunch at the Jacob Lake Inn/restaurant/store/gift shoppe/gas station/etc.! A neat place, truly in the middle of nowhere. We decided to sit at the 50's style lunch counter in the middle of all the activity, and struck up a conversation with a couple from Bethesda, MD here on vacation. Karen & Jim Smith. They travel quite a lot, so it was fun talking with them. Wished we could spend some time to get to know them, but we wanted to get to Zion by mid afternoon to find a place to stay -- we had cancelled our reservations for tonight because we decided it was too far from the park! Saturday night of Memorial Day weekend -- are we nuts!!
Little did we know what was ahead of us. Nothing I had read had prepared us for the east entrance to Zion NP. The most visited of the parks in the Grand Circle. Whereas, at Bryce and Canyonlands, you look down into the valley, at Zion you are in the valley looking up. But first you have to get from the 6,000 feet outside the park, to the 3,700 feet in the park. Are you getting the picture? The Zion-Crescent Junction highway at the park entrance is considered one of the great engineering marvels of the 1920's. 2 tunnels (now one way traffic at a time only) -- one over a mile long -- guard the valley. Strenuous height, weight and length restrictions keep much of the traffic out completely, and anything much bigger than we are, requires an "escort" through the tunnel at $10 a pop! Once you get past the tunnel, you switchback down the side of the mountain at 15-25 MPH -- white knukle all the way. Fortunately I was driving. We have found it is better that way on those roads! But the scenery ( we pulled over at several turnouts just to look) was beyond description. Walls going straight up into the blue sky a thousand feet above, and a river bed with lush vegetation lining the small valley floor. Rocks of red next to ones almost white, or stained almost black from minerals. Just too amazing for words -- and this wasn't even the "scenic drive" part of the park!
It almost made us forget we didn't have a place to stay tonight, but we did drive straight through the park on into Springdale, and stopped at the first RV/Motel we saw. Thankfully, they found room for us and we were set! We didn't hook up right away, but went out to explore this cute little town set on the river, with the towering rocks all around. Tried to look up a friend of Phil Jr's., but she had changed jobs..
A warm night in the campground caused us to be up early aqnd off to see Zion. This park only allows their buses into the canyon -- a very good idea after looking at the number of cars and the narrow road. It actually works very well. Buses run each direction about every 5-6 minutes, and stop at all the places to see. Plus the drivers are a wealth of information about the park and are very accomodating. We hiked on 3 different trails, had lunch, took pictures and just generally enjoyed this most magnificant of parks. Even with all the Memorial Day madness, it was still an enjoyable day.
A short drive landed us in St. George where it had been 102 earlier in the week -- and has cooled to the high 90's. The pool at the Comfort Suites is calling us.
We planned a day of golf as a little break before we head into California and the final leg of our trip. We have very mixed emotions, but mostly just excitment at starting the next phase of our life -- whatever that is going to be. Golf was a nice break from the Park circuit we have been on. Beautiful course, great scenery, and a definate ability to tell we haven't golfed in months! But we enjoyed the day -- a little sunburned and all. Back to the pool to recuperate.