A quick tour through Little Rock, a look at the Capitol, a look for Clinton, a peek at the riverfront area, and we were off towards Hot Springs National Park. Since this is a weekend, we decided to stop short of the park, and snugged into a Best Western ($42) to await an assault on Hot Springs tomorrow.
Hot Springs National Park in Hot Springs, AR. is a very different park, it is the smallest National Park, consisting of a few hundred acres surrounding the edge of the town. The springs were deemed worthy of protecting long before the idea of National Parks took shape. As transportation improved, and the word of the healing powers of the 47 Hot Springs spread, people began flocking to the area for all kinds of "cures".
Bathhouses and lavish hotels sprung up around the springs at the base of the mountain in the late 1800's to early 1900's. Over time, the baths fell out of favor, and were eventually taken over by the Park Service. The exteriors have all been restored, one bathhouse operates, and one has become the Visitor Center and is fully restored.
Hot Springs is a cute town (and they make sure you know that their boy, Bill Clinton, grew up here!) and people still come "to take the waters". With 850,000 gallons gushing forth each day, the water runs freely in many locations around town and they encourage locals and tourists alike to fill their jugs with the naturally pure water -- they do nothing to treat it. After all, it has been in the ground about 4,000 years from falling rainwater to bubbling spring water. It tasted a little salty to me after a couple of days drinking it, but still very good.
We nestled into The Historic Arlington Hotel that has its own operating bathhouse. The bathing routine takes place in equipment that may be original to the reconstructed hotel from the 1920's. A whirlpool bath where the attendant actually bathes you!, a sitz bath, a steam, and then the hot packs and body wrap, followed by a needle shower, and finally, a relaxing massage. You leave there a total mushball! All for $45! This is not for the overly modest, though. They are whipping those sheets and towels on and off you at every station!
After a pleasant evening at the hotel, and a great dinner in the dining room, we were off for Eureka Springs the next day. A town that many people, including our friends the Bryants, had touted as a "not to be missed". Because we fiddled around the town too long, we didn't make it through all the twisting, winding, up and down roads to our destination. A second morning got us on in to one of the most charming towns on the whole trip.
This little town is built in a crevice. The houses and roads cling to the sides on the hills on both sides, and the downtown straddles a one street wide valley. Trains originally brought the people here to "take the waters". Like Hot Springs, many luxury hotels sprang up, and horse drawn trolleys moved people from the train to their hotel. Only a few of the hotels have survived, the most famous is The Crescent, high on the hill overlooking the town in a crevice. Well marked walking tours are much more effective for seeing this town (the horse drawn carriages haven't started running yet) of tiny streets and wonderful restored Victorian homes. Most have no backyards at all, as they cling to their perches. Little parks surprise you at every turn, where each of the still bubbling springs forms the basis for a park. The shops and restaurants are homey and friendly. Since the tourist season hasn't really started, most people had time on their hands, and were willing to share some conversation about the town or their business with us.
We had heard about an award winning Chapel just out of town, so went to find it. The Throncrown Chapel was designed by E. Fay Jones of Fayetteville, a student of FL Wright, and it is awesome. Almost entirely of glass with unusual wood supports. Very small, tucked onto a hillside with a beautiful view. You can see FLW touches everywhere. Especially in the benches and light fixtures. Definitely worth seeking out.
The next morning dawned rainy -- bummer, as we still had more exploring to do. We decided to push on for Branson. A rainy drive through the beautiful Ozark Mountains. Branson is a town of only about 3,400 people -- and we're sure they have at least that many hotel rooms! This place is amazing. It is built in the rolling foothills of the Ozarks--we had a difficult time finding a motel that had any level parking for the RWH. The prices here at this time of year are eye popping -- starting at less than $30 a night. However, it is really too early to be here, as many of the shows haven't started up yet. Once we settled into our Comfort Inn at $51 -- with level parking -- we headed to the ticket desk and decided on three shows. We'll see Country Tonite this evening, Pierce Arrow tomorrow afternoon, and The Platters tomorrow evening. Each show ran about $25 a ticket. We know there are "deals" to be had, if you want to listen to a "pitch", we decided to just enjoy the shows without the "side shows"! But we saw many seniors clutching their coupons! We are definitely "juniors" in this town!
Decided to explore around the town a bit -- there are live theaters everywhere, 3 outlet malls, and things for families and kids to do everywhere. Maybe because of the hills, it doesn't seem quite as tacky as Gatlinburg, or other places we've been. Even with lots of motels still closed, and maybe 1/3 of the shows running, the traffic was fairly bad. Can't imagine what it would be like in the summer when all those rooms are full.
3 different shows, 3 totally different looks at entertainment in this town. Country Tonite was a big Country Western production show -- lots of singing and dancing, fancy sets, lassoing that was excellent, and a high energy feeling. Pierce Arrow was more intimate -- close harmony singing from many genres, a wonderful comedian, and a cozy interaction with the audience. The Platters was more like a traditional concert -- singing all their classics, plus some gospel, and motown thrown in. The one thread that was common to all three shows was the presence of spiritual/gospel music and always at least one patriotic number. All three of them were very well done and worth the time and money. We definitely feel like we've "done Branson".
Phil and I realized today that we haven't given you any "stories from the road" for awhile -- you know, those funny things that happen along the way, that just crack you up. Today we encountered one of those twilight zone kind of experiences.
Upon arriving in Poplar Bluffs, MO, on our way to Nashville, TN, we surveyed "motel row" up and down, and decided that The 3 story (you'll see the significance of that soon) Pear Tree Inn looked pretty nice, and were advertising $39.99 rooms. We have learned that these are the teasers rates for some unknown room that no one would want to stay in! So we figured that a King room would probably be in the mid $40's--still good. Phil goes in and gives them his usual pitch -- whatever that is -- I've been afraid to find out --but he comes back out with a laugh in the air. We have a new twist tonight -- first floor rooms are $51, 2d floor $45, and 3rd floor $39 -- no elevator -- how far do you want to climb? I said, "how about 2nd floor -- I don't really want to climb up 3 floors". So he comes back out with the key and instructions to drive around back to park. Suddenly, we find ourselves eye level with the 2nd floor -- no climbing at all!! So, I said, why are these rooms $6 less? There is no climbing involved! Had we known, we would have taken a third floor room, and climbed the flight of stairs that we originally envisioned. But at this point, it would take too much time to redo -- and I'm afraid of what their answer might have been!! People are really nutty!!
Then, they had recommended the restaurant next door as being "really good". Looks like a revamped Denny's from the outside, but we decide that the convenience outweighs getting in the car again. We open the door, and -- voila! -- a lovely, quiet environment. I quickly glanced around thinking we were underdressed in our jeans and tennies -- but, no fear, in Poplar Bluffs -- lots of jeans -- and we did have nice tops on!! The place had a classy name -- Andrea's - we should have known!! For about $35, including tip and a glass of wine each, we had an excellent, Italian meal - definitely one of the best values on the trip! You just never know what waits around the next corner.
Oh, and we'll be filling up on some of their $1.27 gas tomorrow!