A rainy drive found us in Monroe, a town of about 50,000, and we were greeted right at the freeway exit by Phil's friend, John. He, thankfully, guided us to their lovely home, and the beginning of a great weekend visit with he and Nerissa. We loaded up our gear in the Suburban, and we were all off for "the cabin". Goodbye to the RWH for a few days!
What a neat place -- just what a cabin should be -- big fireplace, animal heads high on the walls, wood surrounding you everywhere, a big family kitchen -- very cozy, yet roomy, tucked on the edge of a lake (or was it a bayou?) with tall tress forming a canopy around it, adding to the cozy feeling. We nestled in here for lots of laughs, catching up on our lives, good food and drink, and the ever present poking and stoking of the fire. Ahhhhhhh......
On Saturday, Nerissa had to leave us to take care of her neice and nephew while their parents vacationed. After a few ideas on what to do with the little ones for a week, we reluctantly said goodbye. Now we were three. But not for long. The evening brought a bustling house full of visitors. Daughter Courtney, boyfriend Brad, friends Gray and Lindsay, and John's buddy, Joe all joined us for huge steaks, drinks of every kind, cigars, and fun conversation between the generations -- a wonderful evening. It was especially interesting to us to understand a little about the political and racial climate of the South. There are some very real reasons why these states a consistantly at the low end of the educational and economic statistics.
After the guests left, we somehow got on a roll, and forgot to go to bed til 2AM!! -- none of us could believe we could stay awake that late -- even then, we could have kept going. A few more hours, and I'm sure we could have solved the problems of the world!
Sunday finally dawned clear and sunny -- a welcome break after days of rain (we thought maybe we were back in Oregon). We decided to get out and explore around a bit. John was a great tourguide, showing us the back country of Louisiana, and even briefly into Arkansas. We stopped at the College (Louisiana Tech) where John and Nerissa met, as the guys reminesced about their bad boy college days.
A few groceries in hand, and we were back to our cozy nest for our last evening. A pot of chili, some cornbread, and the Sopranos on TV found us ready for an early turn in to recall a true "vacation" break from our "normal" life!! We knew the morning brought an end to a very memorable visit with that legendary Southern Hospitality.
Even though John had a very busy week coming up, he made sure we got a good tour of Monroe before saying our goodbyes and sending us off in The Rolling White House to continue our trek across the South.
We arrived in Vicksburg in time to see the National Military Park here that relives the Seige of Vicksburg. The Mississippi River Confederate stronghold was the reason for this battle. The Union Army and Navy finally won control of the River after months of fighting and a 42 day seige on the town. This battle, cutting the confederacy in two, and Gettysburg, at about the same time, are considering the "keys" to the War.
The Natchez Spring Pilgrimage starts Wednesday, so we're going to head to Jackson first, then back down to Natchez to enjoy some of their lovely Mansions while they are open to the public. Then we've got to get moving -- we're getting behind on our schedule!!
We have seen some really beautiful State Capitols, but Jackson's may be the best yet. After a $19M restoration in the 1980's, this place is fantastic! The stained glass, the marble columns, and a rotunda that is open from the basement right through to the top with extremely detailed paintings and artwork -- all make for a memorable building. Even the two chambers have huge stained glass skylights in them. Really well done.
Natchez turned out perfectly. Today was the beginning of the Pilgrimage, but the crowds have not yet arrived. Had no trouble getting tickets or a place to stay. I was flipping through the AAA book, looking for a dinner spot, when I spied The Monmouth Plantation. "Dinner in the elegant surroundings of the dining room, single seating at 7:30. Explore the grounds". This sounded really interesting, but, it is Pilgrimage -- oh well, I'll call and check anyway. Sure enough -- 2 spots left at the table!! Scored again!!
We got our good clothes out, and arrived at 6:30 for cocktails in the study (too cold for the garden and veranada - darn!). Nice people from all around the country. Met a nice couple from Seattle, where he is a published travel writer!! Big score!! He gave me some really good pointers about my book, and agreed to review the book for me when I get it done! I won't be losing THAT business card. He thought I had a good idea with a title along the lines of "How to travel for a year for the cost of staying home".
We also met a couple from St. Louis that wants to take us to a baseball game to see Mark McGuire hit a home run -- Phil was excited. Another nice lady from Nashville that wants to show us her city! An all around fun evening with wonderful food and conversation in a delightful setting to get us ready for our home tours tomorrow.
We were on the "Peach tour". They rotate the houses from day to day, and have them laid out so they are easy to find, even though they are spread all over the area. These places are so interesting. Some are completely restored B & B's, others are in the restoration process, and one we visited, was never finished--nor will it be. That was really a shame, as it is the largest octaganal home in the country -- and so pretty from the outside. Just to top off our Antebellum morning, we went to The Carriage House for lunch. It is the actual carriage house for Stanton Hall, one of the most famous of the homes.
We headed out towards Oxford and New Albany, but had to stop short -- just too far for one day.
Oxford is a breath of fresh air! The college town where Ole Miss is located, and a wonderful town. The campus is beautiful, and the little downtown square, set around the county courthouse, had the best shops and restuarants we've seen in the South. We had lunch at a recommendation from one of our travel guides -- and it was delicious -- no fried foods, real fresh ground pepper, and interesting preparations. Still too much salt -- they salt everything to death down here -- hope we don't have a heart attack! We spent too much time and too much money here -- but got a couple of birthday presents for later this year.
We tried to find John Grisham's house on the edge of town, but the sketchy directions that we had from a local were unable to yield the right location. So we were off to see where my Mom spent her early years in New Albany.
A nice little southern town greeted us in the afternoon in New Albany. I took a few pictures of things I thought Mom might remember and we moved on to a really tiny little town called Blue Mountain where there was a college that she remembered on a hill and wondered if it was still there. Indeed it was. Took a few more pictures in the very late afternoon and we headed to Memphis.
Found a place to stay not far from our adventure for the next day -- Graceland. I thought Graceland would be the ultimate in tackiness, but it was really pretty well done. In addition to the actual Mansion, you get to tour his airplane, his personal effects, and a museum with a bunch of his cars. All his gold/platinum records and trophys are on display, and his gravesite, along with his parents and grandma are right on the grounds. It was interesting and really gave us a new appreciation to him and his life. He looks like a saint compared to most of the recording artists today! Most people don't know how generous he was (some would say flagrant) with his money. He helped a lot of charities in the Memphis area.
The afternoon brought us to downtown Memphis, and an evening of music on Beale Street. They are trying valiantly to keep their downtown together, but many boarded up or vacant properties right on the Trolley line, don't bode well. The Peabody Hotel is expanding and they have created Peabody Place near the hotel -- perhaps in hopes of keeping things alive.
After recovering from the last evening, we headed off to see The Pyramid -- their basketball arena. Very impressive, but totally locked up on a Saturday morning. We hopped the trolley and headed for the National Civil Rights Museum located in the old motel (The Lorraine) where Martin Luther King was assassinated. A fascinating experience made even more so because we were definately in the minority in this venue. It is amazing all the things that have gone on, dating back to the 13-15th Amendments to the Constitution -- back to the late 1800's. A very well done display with enough interactive exhibits to give you a real feel. The bus where Rosa Parks refused to get up for a white person is there, with Rosa sitting there and the bus driver yelling at her -- you are right on the bus experiencing all this -- chilling. The actual room where MLK was staying when he was shot and a good explanation of what lead up to the killing -- you can look across the street and see where the assassin fired the bullet. A moving experience.
Off to Little Rock, AR and the beginning of another week.